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Mercruiser Engine 2003/2004 3.0 carb Alpha 1 sterndrive Searay…

Mercruiser Engine 2003/2004 3.0 carb Alpha...
Mercruiser Engine 2003/2004 3.0 carb
Alpha 1 sterndrive
Searay 17ft bowrider boat

I am a lifetime boater, very mechanical etc, but have hit a roadblock. I am helping a friend who owns above boat, he just purchased boat and when I came on scene engine would not start and trim up/down did not work. Trim motor unit was rusted away on bracket as well as corrosion on solenoids etc. I removed trim unit and rebuilt with new stainless bracket, new wiring, solenoids, trim motor-inline fuse-wire harness is original. I have reinstalled new unit and trim unit will not work from shifter handle. I have researched and found info on trim limiter? and trailer switch? unsure where it is or if this unit has one. At my boat harness that plugs into trim unit there is 1 blue wire with plug that is not attached, the only unsed connector I see is a black wire? Any troubleshooting options, I have took trim unit out of boat and tested with a battery out of boat, have not checked anything at switch in throttle shifter

2nd scenario, prior to any of this, engine did run/crank up after new battery cables were replaced, we decided to do a general maintenance on engine, oil change, fuel filters at carb as well at fuel pump(fuel pump was so rusted it broke in half and had to replace with new fuel pump/filter. When I replaced carb filter(it appeared it had never been changed) alot of debris in filter, replaced everything, went to crank boat up and fuel pouring into carb, I have been told more than likely float in carb is open or has debris in it, is there a easy way to possibly deal with float other than a carb rebuild, engine will turn over but will not crank at present
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Answered in 11 minutes by:
11/1/2010
Whitecap36
Whitecap36, Marine Technician
Category: Boat
Satisfied Customers: 1,545
Experience: 28 years Certified Marine Technician and past FL State Certified teaching degree
Verified
Hello, I'm Mike.
It is possible that several posts may be necessary to complete. You have allot going one here so lets try and dissect this a piece at a time and feel free to ask questions as I'm likely to miss a point or two.
Yes the Trim limit switch is mounted on the port side of the gimbal ring outside the boat. If bad It would be ok to bypass inside of boat back by the pump. It will allow the trim to raise all the way with the toggle instead of using the trailer button. I would not suggest this on an outboard but a 3.0 M/C will be no problem with possible overtriming.
The reason the the carb is flooding is that there are pieces of debris to large to get through the needle and seat. The carb top can be removed to make this repair.
The reason the engine will not start is likely because it is getting too much fuel.
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Customer reply replied 7 years ago
Understand carb scenario fully, I am in Hawaii and not at boat presently but will remove top of carb and clean, hopefully a easy fix.

Trim is the real problem

I understand trim limiter is on port side of gimbal, how do I know its bad? how to by pass.

To repeat, I have tested trim unit out of boat, it appears all works, how do I test trim limiter? bypass? where does thumb switch receive its power from? from wire harness at trim unit into wire harness up to shifter? again 1 blue wire is not connected at present, and only place to connect was a female black wire, I did try that but nothing happened.

I guess I am looking for troubleshooting to start at
There will be two wires that come through the transom and hook into the trim harness close to the trim pump. They may have bullet connectors and plug into either purple or blue wires. Basically this switch is in between the trim up button and the up trim relay/solenoid small blue wire. When you find these wire connections you can just unplug them and hook to a ohm meter to see if it activates the meter on and off at about 21 3/4 trimmed out (trim bolt to trim bolt on cylinder ends). To by bass put two harness wires together.
The trim switch in the control handle get power through the fuse at the trim motor on the red wire.
Where is this blue wire that is not connected? I'm sure it needs to be hooked up..
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Customer reply replied 7 years ago
On my trim unit(solenoids/motor etc) there is a female receptacle that the boats male harness pushes on and hook up to, of course this is the wire harness up to shifter/trim switch. I have a blue wire with male bullet connector that is not plugged in(this is part of the harness that goes up to the shifter switch, there is a black wire laying in boat that has a female connector that is not connected(can only assume this may be from trim limiter, possibly? Can only assume my blue wire with male connector is inline to up part of switch. It appears either my trim limiter may be the problem or the actual shifter switch??

Just spoke to my friend, he advised prior to my involvement, trim would go up but would not go down, I kind of question that, but I assumed it was all corrosion related. Now I think it may be corrosion or wiring or even possibly the trim limiter
Ok, yes I agree this is where the limit switch wire plugs into. Just find the limit switch harness wire mate(there are two wires from the limit switch). Unplug the limit wire from the wire going to the solenoid. Them hook the lone blue wire and this wire together(leaving the limit wires out of the picture)
Remember you can always test the trim system back at the solenoids by applying 12 volts to either the small green wire terminal(down) or the small blue wire terminal(up).
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Customer reply replied 7 years ago
I understand some what better, I am not at boat presently but I do have the trim unit out of the boat and with me, My unit has no wires for the limiter attached to what I have, the male boat harness to trim unit does have the blue wire(male) inline with it. Where does the 2nd wire from the limiter go to(ground?), I obvisously have to find both trim limiter wires, if I understand you correctly, snap together both trim limiter wires and this will by pass?

I appreciate all the help, I will pay now and have to get back to you in several days when I go to boat, is this ok
The limit wires attach in the harness close to the pump but not quite at it. The other limiter wire going to the pump is not to ground but plugs in the harness near the pump and the wire it plugs into will go to the small blue term on the solenoid for up, as I previously stated.
Whitecap36
Whitecap36, Marine Technician
Category: Boat
Satisfied Customers: 1,545
Experience: 28 years Certified Marine Technician and past FL State Certified teaching degree
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Customer reply replied 7 years ago
I am a little confused, I have in the boat harness that attaches to the trim unit by male/female plug in a blue wire with male connection(this would connect to up trim system) this is the only connection that goes into the trim unit, there are no other wires etc to any solenoid on trim unit, I assume one of the wires(black in color with female connector) that is laying in boat by trim unit area is one of the wires from the limiter. I assume the other limiter wire is hooked up etc. I obvisously have to go to boat and find wires, my problem may have been all along the limiter and the corrosion was just another issue. My blue wire I am talking about, on my boat male harness to trim unit, is this the only wire from the limiter that should be there? I rebuilt new trim unit with old one present and replaced everything that was there. I may just be mis understanding you somewhat, but I have a better idea now of what the issues are. With this being a 2003/2004 stern drive, is my limiter the old kind that corrodes etc and the new replacements are encapastulated plastic to prevent corrosion?
Please post back to this thread so I can follow up with you,
thanks.
Mike
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Customer reply replied 7 years ago
Can you please answer the last questions about the limiter,
You do have the newer style but they can go bad as well. An ohm meter hooked to the limiter is the test. When you trim up it should switch from continuity to no continuity.
Ok let me see if this makes sense.
When you trim the toggle switch to up on the handle it takes the 12 volts and sends it to the up solenoid through the blue wire that attach's to the small term(blue wire)on the up solenoid.
Now in order to limit the trim up, Mercury has installed a limit switch on this wire(sometime the color of this wire where the limit switch is plugged in is purple). so basically picture this wire from switch to solenoid. Now cut it in the middle and put a limit switch in line. So to eliminate this switch just remove it and hook the wires back up together.
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Customer reply replied 7 years ago
Sir

I understand somewhat, I am not at boat and that is frustrating, I really think my problem lies with the limiter wiring and I have to go to boat and find limiter wiring, I understand the unused blue wire on my male electrical harness now, I just have to locate both wires from the limiter at this point. Will get back with you, Thanks for your help, I am still some what confused but I think it will come to me
I think it will become more clear once you see the wiring.
I'm on the road tomorrow and will check my JA account as I can looking for your reply.
Thanks
Mike
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Customer reply replied 7 years ago
I have made progress, discovered my shifter switch harness had corrosion and no power to it, replaced connection with heat shrink connectors and trim unit powers up and works.

Now my sterndrive is stuck in the up posistion and will not go down with trim unit, I have now un done the hydraulic hoses at trim unit and tried to push srive down, no luck

i ubderstand there is a check valve in cylinders, any suggestions to get stern drive down
I'm away from my books,out of town,but I can tell you there are no check valves in the cylinders. Be sure the hose are on properly. You may need to crack a line to bleed down. Check the lines on the cylinders as well if they were removed. Front to front and rear to rear is their orientation.
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Customer reply replied 7 years ago
I removed the lines going into the trim unit first, tried pushing down on stern drive, no luck, used all my 180lbs weight, no luck, I disconnected lines going into cylinders, no luck as well, I read some forums and they advised of check valves being pressurized? and cylinder being frozen etc. I will wait for a reply, i do not want to take cylinders off unless necessary, any help appreciated

I have retested trim unit, installed etc and its working perfectly, shooting fluid out each hole

I have been told to use ATF auto transmission fluid, is this ok vs 10w40 oil or the Mercury brand trim fluid?
I believe the manual says trans fluid is ok in a pinch.
Sorry to have to send you a page link instead of picture but my phone for some reason didn't want to down load the picture. So I can't see the picture I sent but I'm hoping it was the parts break down of the trim cylinder and hoses. If so you can see there is no check valve. There are spring loaded balls designed to pass fluid from high to low pressure side encased of a sudden hard impact against the outdrive. It is likely a problem with only one cylinder. In all reality the weight of the drive with hoses disconnected should blow fluid out and drive drop. I would disconnect hoses at the trim cylinders one at a time(be carfull not to get blasted with fluid) to see if the drive will drop. It is possible the outdrive is stuck up because of corroded hide pins I suppose if cylinders check out.



http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Merc2/Mercruiser/ALPHA%20ONE%20%28GEN.II%29%20%20%20%201998%20AND%20UP/0L100040%20%26%20Up/TRIM%20CYLINDERS%20AND%20HYDRAULIC%20HOSES/parts.html

Edited by Mike on 11/3/2010 at 4:27 AM EST
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Customer reply replied 7 years ago
Sir

I finally resolved everything, with a little luck and weight leaning on drive we got it to move and its working up/down.

You can close this at this time, Thanks you have been great
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