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2000 Bayliner Capri Runabout, Mercruiser 3.0L, 4 cyl Wont…

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2000 Bayliner Capri Runabout, Mercruiser...
2000 Bayliner Capri Runabout, Mercruiser 3.0L, 4 cyl Won't start - starter turns engine but no spark. Replaced ignition switch (lost key). Started and ran fine after replacement in the drive way but didn't work when taken to the lake. Confirmed 12v from battery to ignition switch, to/thru the lanyard stop switch to the ignition coil (activated switch and 12v cut to ignition coil). Also 12v confirmed at rpm gage. Performed resistance check on primary(.6 ohm) and secondary coil (8K ohms) and both appear to be within spec. Control wires from ignition coil to distributer appear to be intact (ohm checked good). Tried exchanging coil to distributer and distributer to spark plug wires to determine wire status. Could not get power to spark plugs (pulled plug wires to check). Insured throttle in neutral as well as moving slightly (until starter quit) to check on neutral alignment. Also removed spark arrestor to insure fuel as well as trying starter fluid. Is there anything else to check/replace. Is there a test for the electronic module in the distributer? Does this have to be accomplished by a boat mechanic or can it be done by an auto mechanic?
Submitted: 8 years ago.Category: Boat
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Answered in 31 minutes by:
6/24/2010
Marine Mechanic: K. Kergan, Marine Mechanic replied 8 years ago
K. Kergan
K. Kergan, Marine Mechanic
Category: Boat
Satisfied Customers: 1,031
Experience: 24 yrs exp. Inboard/Outboard mechanic Mercury/ Mercruiser, Volvo Penta and OMC, Johnson/Evin.
Verified
Pull the coil wire from the distributor cap and put it near the engine block. Disconnect the wires from the negative terminal of the coil. Connect a jumper wire to the negative terminal of the coil. Ensure that the key is on and there is power to the positive terminal of the coil.Touch the jumper wire to the engine where it can make an electrical connection, bare metal with no paint is a good place. This should cause sparks when you make and break the connection. If it does not spark the coil is no good. If it does spark, the distributor is the problem. If there is no spark at all the module is no good. If there is spark and the engine still will not run, it is possible a cap or rotor.
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
THE COIL WIRES ARE IN A CONNECTOR (MALE/FEMALE PLUG). HOW WOULD YOU SUGGEST JUMPING THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL. NOT SURE THIS HELPS AS I ACCOMPLISHED A COIL RESISTANCE CHECK ON THE PRIMARY AND SECONDARY COILS AND APPEARS OK. IS THER ANYTHING I CAN DO TO CONFIRM THAT THE DISTRIBUTER/ROTOR/ELECTRONICS ARE BAD? CAN YOU REPLACE COMPONENTS OR DO YOU HAVE TO REPLACE THE WHOLE DISTRIBUTER?
Marine Mechanic: K. Kergan, Marine Mechanic replied 8 years ago
You can replace components, if you have spark but it doesn't reach the spark plugs it could be a bad rotor or cap or even wires. If there is no spark at all it is most likely the module. I wasn't thinking about that plastic plug on the coil.
Here is a link to parts break-down.
http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Merc2/Mercruiser/3.0L%20MPI%20EC/1A072812%20%26%20Up/Distributor%20and%20Ignition%20Components/parts.html
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
Checked yesterday with spark plug out but didn't seem to have any arcing at the plug/bare metal. Is there a way to check the module? Can a car parts/auto repair check the status of the distributer/module before trying to replace parts?
Marine Mechanic: K. Kergan, Marine Mechanic replied 8 years ago
No, you can't check them with a meter. There is no test you can do off the engine, you eliminate testable possibilities until you are reasonably sure that its the module.
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