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I am needing a diagram of a 2001 225 mec opti max motor,and…

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I am needing a diagram...
I am needing a diagram of a 2001 225 mec opti max motor,and wondering how i can figure out how much of the prop is in the water when motor is trimmed up and running in the sweet spot. maybe, a diagram of where the prop is at different trim levels.

last question for now. i have a smart craft computer on my motor and i understand that you can preform a diagnostic test will tell you the problem. examle: blown power head do to over heating. it will show that the temp was high. I have asked this question before and i was told that there is another computer test that can be done to see if the heating or problem was a long term or short term ( for an examle, if i ran 4 mile up river and i had a cylinder heat up and blew. it would show that over heating would have been for 1-10 mins . where as, if i hit and object in the water that caused the motor to blow out and over rave the RPMs that cause the power head to blow).

One more, how long would it take for corrosion to set up on the cylinders. example: if the power head blew and there was no lubrication in the head and it set for five to ten days.

I hope i explained everything pretty good and my questions make sence.

ca
Submitted: 8 years ago.Category: Boat
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Answered in 4 hours by:
6/15/2010
Marine Mechanic: Jeff G., Marine Mechanic replied 8 years ago
Jeff G.
Jeff G., Marine Mechanic
Category: Boat
Satisfied Customers: 4,730
Experience: 42 years experience, Certified Master Technician, All Major Outboards, Sterndrives, Hi-Performance
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Welcome,
I will be happy to assist you. If you have a question or need clarification please post back at any time.
Whew! That's a lot, let me see if I can explain.
There is no trim diagram of the relationship of the boat to the motor. To find the best cruising speed use the tachometer and speedometer. Watch the rpms and boat attitude as you trim out the boat should get faster and the rpm's raise. If you trim out too far the rpm's will go up but the boat will actually slow. You can do this for any speed or throttle setting you want to go. So for instance throttle up to about 30 trim the engine out to lift the boat and without changing the throttle the rpm and speed will raise. When the speed stops going up that is the optimum speed for that throttle setting. Be aware depending on the hull the handling may suffer if too much trim.
While the Smart Craft will tell you a lot it will not tell you everything you are asking.
What you are referring to is the CDS or DDT computer diagnostic software. What it will do is tell you of fault codes and faults in seconds. For instance it will not tell you the powerhead blew, but it will tell you there was an active fault what is is and the number of seconds it was in fault mode. So if your engine was overheating it would give that information and that the overheating was 120 seconds. If the engine over reved it would tell that as well expressed in seconds. The software can then reset the codes etc. Similar to a car code scanner. But it will also tell you things like temperatures, electrical sensor parameters, block temperature, pressures etc.
Any internal part without lubrication and rust protection would start to corrode immediately. The extent of damage and rust would depend on the moisture on the part and how little rust protection there is. After 5 to 10 days there could be quite a bit of rust or corrosion, not only in the cylinders but internally on the crankshaft and associated bearings as well.
Hope this answered all your questions.
Jeff
Jeff G.
Jeff G., Marine Mechanic
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Experience: 42 years experience, Certified Master Technician, All Major Outboards, Sterndrives, Hi-Performance
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago

jeff,

i had two cylinders replaced. when i went to pick the boat up they told me evrything checked out on the ddt and the boat was ready to roll. i took the boat out the same day to run it. my partner and i ran the boat for 1.5+ hrs. boat ran fine. two days later we went to pre-fish for a tournament. we ran 4 miles up river. i was running the boat at 5400 RPMs. my rooster tail was on the same plane as the nose of the boat and the top of the motor. my best friend fished the tour for two years. he showed me and taught me a lot about running a boat.

 

my boat has the smart craft computer and the alarm is set at 5750 RPMs. on our way up the river the boat hit an object making the boat turn a hard violante 90 degree left and then back to the right. in the process of this happening i pulled the kill switch at the same time i herd the alarm go off. the boat came to a stop and we gether ourselves. i started the boat back up and went down river bout 200+ yards and back up. we were going to run a real shallow shoot. when i say shallow you can feel the boat hitting the sand. we have to run it wide open and throwing a high rooster tail. we stopped to fish the blow hole before run the shoot. when we decided to run the shoot the motor wouldnt run right so we did not go.

 

after flowing down river. we loaded the boat up and took it in to the shop and called the insurance company. i told them that i hit an object. at the shop the employees placed the fresh water hose on the lower unit. they started the motor three different times and let the motor run for 3-5 mins each time, listen and guessing what was wrong with it. then told me that they will have to put the DDT on it.

 

the insurance co. sent a marine specialist down to inspect the boat. the marine specialist said 2001 opti max, mechancial falure because the lower unit was not damaged. i have seen many boat wrecks running shallow water and the lower unit unharmed. they also said there was not and sand in the lower unit and the power head. remember, i ran the boat down and up river after the fact and the shop employees placed the fresh water hose on the lower unit and started the motor three different times. with me running the boat up and down the river and the shop placing the fresh water up to the lower unit that would have flished the sand out,right?

 

One, after i had the two cylinders replaced they checked the boat with the DDT that would have told them if the other cylinder was bad or the motoor was not running right.

 

Two, if there were problems with the motor during my 4 mile travel up river (over heating, high RPMs, lower water or oil pressure) the alarm would have went off. the alarm went off during the violante turn.

 

the DDT will show you codes of fault. they said that it couldnt tell me it the fault lasted 1/10th os a second or five mins but they said there was another computer that come break it down to find that info. the marine specialist who is not as certified as the two 5 star mechanics that have looked at my boat and i will show that in court.

 

in my first message to you i wanted to know the name of the computer test that could put a time line on the process of the fault codes. i know that when running a bass boat and you are in that sweet spot that the prop isnt more than six inches in the water and the pad of the boat is running deeper than the prop. i was looking for diagrams to back that up. i like running at 5400 RPMs withe the motor trimmed up 10, 15, 20, 25, percent how much of the prop is in the water in reguards of the pad of the boat.

 

I was also wanting a diagram of the motor show i could show the dumbass lawyers how the water flows through a motor and where the cylinders are.

 

the specialist also stated that the cylinder head had corrosion on the heads. yes, there is corrosion on the heads because it sit in the open for six days after the fact waiting for the specialist to come and inspect the motor. after the insurance co turned me down i took the boat to another 5 star mechanic to fix it. didnt charge as much and he is not scared of insurance co. both places hate a marine specialist coming in. when i took the boat to the other shop they sent the specialist back to inspect it again. that when he took pictuers of the heads that were rusted and had corrosine.

 

if ther is anything you are aware of that would help me explain or prove that yes it is a mechanical falure due to my boat hitting an object due to flood levels of the river. not, because the ser# XXXXX its a 2001 225 opti max that is know to blow power heads. i got the boat from a friend that fishes flw tour and he had to replace the power head. i thank that the insurance co is basing it on 2001 but it had a 2003 power head on it. now i have a 2009 at 6200.00. my best friend is my lawyer and im not be charged for this case so i will take it as far as i can.

 

all im trying to do is find out some info befor i talk with the mechanics. i want to make sure i have my shit right before. in case the feed me a line of bullsh^%[email protected]#.

 

chad

 

Marine Mechanic: Jeff G., Marine Mechanic replied 8 years ago
When the engine was rebuilt did the shop put the engine back into break in mode?
You may have a better case against the shop that did the rebuild than the insurance company.
When you hit the object the engine came out of the water and the rev limiter was exceeded so the alarm went off.
Your dealer should have a print out of the over rev in seconds and he can compare this with the present numbers. Same thing with the overheating.
The DDT will not tell you you have a bad cylinder, not will it tell you the engine is not running right. All it will do is store data from the various sensors and tell you the parameters of the sensors.
If there was noise from the engine the engine should not have been started. A leak down and compression test would have told the tech that there was a blown head gasket. The DDT would have told him it overheated. Neither will tell you why. The head gasket could have gone from improper torque, problem in the rebuild, warpage, etc. Not necessarily from any heat related item although it would eventually show overheating.
If the damage was to one of the two cylinders that was damaged before I would be very suspect. How bad was the first damage, why did it occur? Did the shop fix the problem of why it happened? How extensive was the damage.
While you could overheat from running through sand or mud, it should show plainly on the water pump impeller and around the water pump would have sand. Normally no matter the circumstance this would not be covered under any insurance policy. Same with striking the underwater object. Any damage from the actual collision should covered but not a problem with the cylinders.
I know this is not what you want to hear but it is the case the insurance company will present in court.
As far as I know there is no computer program that can present a timeline of problems.
When running properly the boat should not be lower than the prop. If the engine is trimmed to above the bottom of the boat then an over rev condition and possibly overheating will occur from not enough water.
A large roostertail is a sign of an inefficient running boat. The flatter the roostertail the more efficient.
There is no diagram of the prop in relation to the boat and trim angle because it will vary with each model of boat, the engine height and the trim angle. It will also depend on which prop you are using, as one prop may be a surfacing prop and hold the water where another will not work at all. As well as diameter etc. There is no way to know what your trim angle was at the time.
Finally it is the owners/shops responsibility to protect and preserve the property as much as possible. If water was in the cylinders then rust would occur and to allow the rust to get worse is not a problem of the motor or from the collision.
I'm not going to sugar coat anything. This is exactly what the insurance company will present.
Jeff
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