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My spotted sussex chicken 3 yrs old has a hard time walking

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and is unable to roost...
My spotted sussex chicken 3 yrs old has a hard time walking and is unable to roost at night.
She is slow. and at times she looks like she is in a trance. We carry her from barn to barn
as she cannot keep up with the other free range chickens. This seemed to start after a hard molt last year and she has not recovered. She is feed cracked corn, layer feed and fruit and canned corn. Her tail is a little droopy and she has not laid an egg since her hard molt.
What is wrong?
Submitted: 2 years ago.Category: Bird Veterinary
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Answered in 1 hour by:
5/7/2015
Bird Veterinarian: Dr. Pat, Bird Veterinarian replied 2 years ago
Dr. Pat
Dr. Pat, Bird Veterinarian
Category: Bird Veterinary
Satisfied Customers: 4,244
Experience: 25+ years working primarily or exclusively with birds
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Greetings, I am Dr. Pat. I have worked with birds for many years. I will do my best to help you.
Calcium grit may cause a blockage. I would not give any more. At this point if she needs calcium it should be given as injections.
She is getting too many treats and this may be causing a severe nutritional problem. Her base diet should be layer crumbles or pellets and fresh leafy greens; and only TINY amounts of other things. Greens ARE treats to chickens and a very valuable source of calcium and vitamins. I would switch to them completely as a treat.
The problem you have here is to find out what exactly is the cause. There is nothing specific in what you describe, quite literally 100 different diseases can have the same presentation. Luckily there are labs that work with small producers and an start diagnostics for a very reasonable fee.
She is in very serious trouble, and needs local veterinary attention. These signs are of a very sick bird, and not specific to any one disease. And that means it is not fair to you or her to guess, there are so many possibilities.You are going to need local help on this, and a scientific and solid diagnosis to find safe and effective treatment.
You can examine the bird thoroughly again, including opening the mouth and having a good look in there for mucus, redness, masses or anything else unusual. You can take the temperature gently with a rectal thermometer. Anything above 105F/40C is significant. Palpate the tummy for an egg, fluid, lumps or anything else. Check all the joints for swelling, pain, and mobility.
Move the bird indoors to an aquarium, box or carrier with soft towels or hay in the bottom, no perch, and food and water in low bowls that can be reached easily. Keep her partially covered, warm and quiet.
The bird, bowls and unit must be kept very clean.
Do not try to force food or water. You can offer warm cooked rice, pancakes, cornbread, grapes, melon, greens in addition to normal food.
I know it is expensive, but you may not have many home options, because the first thing you need a vet for is to find out what is going on. Treatment is only as good as the diagnosis. If you call around, you may find a vet to work within your means. She needs to see an avian/poultry-experienced veterinarian ASAP for complete examination, diagnosis and appropriate treatment. Check
https://aav.site-ym.com/?page=basiccare click on "find a vet"
http://aav.site-ym.com/search/custom.asp?id=1803
for members of AAV in your area.
The expense for this is going to be a lot less than inefficient, ineffective, dangerous treatments, guesswork, and loss of the flock; not to mention possible implications to human consumption of tainted eggs. Many states/governments have poultry diagnostic labs that charge very reasonable fees to test for common diseases. If you have others and presumably use the eggs, it is important to have a solid diagnosis and treatment safe for egg consumption. You can check with local County Extension offices, the closest Ag university with a poultry department, or with the closest vet school for a local referral.
If this were my patient, I would start with complete fecal analysis and direct smear, stained with Sedi-stain and unstained for multiple parasites, fungi, spirals; direct smear stained with Sedi-stain and unstained of the oral cavity; bacterial culture and sensitivity of the feces and choana. Depending on the case I might do a fungal culture. Routine blood work is necessary to rule out other issues. There are MANY DNA/RNA tests for bird diseases. Ultrasound is often more informative than radiographs and does not require anesthesia (ask your vet about this option). Generally I start them out on medications as indicated by the tests.
Pet/feed store medications and home remedies are harmful, ineffective, immuno-suppressive, and make them much worse and may interfere with the veterinarian's diagnosis and treatment. Do not use them.
The flock should be on a high quality pelleted diet with extra greens/pasturage. I recommend TOP pet bird pellets (http://totallyorganics.com/t-pellets.php ) as they are more appropriate for the pet chicken. Overcrowding, cleanliness, proper water, environmental temperature, humidity, ventilation, photoperiod, and toxic exposures should be addressed.
Check these
http://avianmedicine.net/publication_cat/avian-examiner/#34
for chicken husbandry advice.
Chickens: download through Zoological Education Network
(www.exoticdvm.com), or printed copies may be
requested at(###) ###-####
Backyard Poultry magazine
www.backyardpoultrymag.com
You need to check for fly and mosquito access, as they can carry certain diseases, and check for external parasites. Mites, lice and fleas (in some areas, ticks) can contribute to over-all health issues, anemia, and disease transmission.
She may need injectable antibiotics, calcium and many other medications. Act quickly and good luck.
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Bird Veterinarian: Dr. Pat, Bird Veterinarian replied 2 years ago
Hi,

I'm just following up on our conversation about your pet. How is everything going?

Dr. Pat
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Dr. Pat
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