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Have a 2003 Audi A4 Quattro with a hard miss. vin:

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Have a 2003 Audi A4...
Have a 2003 Audi A4 Quattro with a hard miss.vin: WAULC68E63A283149Code(s): P0300 P0302 P0303 P0304 P0301 w/ flashing CELCompression: 150 145 150 150New ignition coils and spark plugsCan you help me find the cause?Can run most tests - have verus pro(up to date) and many other testing gadgets to help us get there.Thanks, ***** *****
Submitted: 4 months ago.Category: Audi
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Answered in 1 minute by:
11/25/2017
Audi Mechanic: rpmdiag, Tech and Instructor replied 4 months ago
rpmdiag
rpmdiag, Tech and Instructor
Category: Audi
Satisfied Customers: 8,671
Experience: Since 1975
Verified

Hi, I'm Ron and I will be helping you today.
Stand by for a moment while I prepare your answer.

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Audi Mechanic: rpmdiag, Tech and Instructor replied 4 months ago

A bad CRANK sensor can cause this as well as fuel injector issues. Sounds like you have checked everything else already.

Also, depending on what the freeze frame data and MODE 6 tells us, this can also be a centralized vacuum leak such as a lower intake gasket etc.

Please understand that I don't know your skill level or tools
you have to assist us. Also understand that I can't see, smell,
hear, or touch the vehicle either, so your patience is
appreciated. JA is a great Q/A site, but it does not replace a
repair shop. So please don’t shoot the messenger if I have to
deliver bad news:)
If you are satisfied with my answer, I would greatly
appreciate a 5 star rating now before you leave the site and I
will still assist you after you have rated me too if another
question pops up. I don’t get credit for helping you until
you rate me

Thanks, Ron

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Audi Mechanic: rpmdiag, Tech and Instructor replied 4 months ago

Did you have any more questions for me at this time?

Thanks again,

Ron

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Audi Mechanic: rpmdiag, Tech and Instructor replied 4 months ago

Thanks again and please remember to rate me 5 stars now
and keep this link in case you need me again later on.
I don’t get credit for assisting you until you rate me
My goal is to assist you in the repair of your vehicle by
supplying you with well educated information. I may not
always have the exact fix you wanted to hear, but my job is
to get you on the right track, which I always do. I can’t hear,
see, smell or touch your vehicle from where I’m at, so your
understanding of that is greatly appreciated. There are no
magical answers, but I do my best to guide you in the right
direction.

Ron

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
As I stated with original posting of the question. I had already diagnosed this issue to a point. Your answer reads like a code explanation for the guy having his vehicle 'diagnosed' at Auto Zone. Figuring I needed some help with some more in depth testing I posted my question here.Can run most tests - have verus pro(up to date) and many other testing gadgets to help us get there. Figuring, whoever answered this question would assume I would be looking to pinpoint my issue. I have now ran tests on cam and crank w/ wave patterns and am pretty convinced that the timing is off. Both individual wave patterns look good. But, the overlay doesn't look right. Now if you can help me with a known good cam crank comparison wave pattern I can rate positively and be on. If not I'll shut it down and open to another tech.Thanks
Audi Mechanic: rpmdiag, Tech and Instructor replied 4 months ago

Well, if you have already diagnosed it correctly. it should be fixed now, correct?

Do you know what freeze frame data and MODE 6 are? Doesn't look like it.

I’ve been in the auto repair industry since 1975 and have made many improvements over
the years pertaining to proper repairs. I also share this knowledge in the classrooms I
instruct in around the country, teaching for large companies who offer high-end training
to repair shop technicians.
It all starts with listening to the customer’s complaint, confirming it and finally doing all
the needed tests to locate the problem. All these tests require thousands of dollars worth
of specialized equipment that were designed and produced for the professional
technician. So when I recommend something for you to do, though it may seem silly to
you, please trust that I’ve “been there and done that” before. Getting a baseline is critical.
Once this is done, then I confirm what I have found wrong instead of throwing parts at it,
to be sure the problem I see is NOT camouflaged by something else.
Just like when you go to the doctor’s office for a visit, they take all your vital signs such
as; blood pressure, body temperature, weight, pulse etc.
This is my approach as well, except with the cars vital signs instead. I do everything
possible to NOT leave any stones unturned because it can cause you to misdiagnose the
problem or chase your tail.
I see so many people replace everything between the bumpers to no avail and spend
money they could have saved, if they only paid for a good diagnosis.
Sad to say, I even see people offering help to someone else by just telling them what the
parts are they should replace. Ouch!! These cars are all high tech, no room for guesswork.
When the check engine light or any lights illuminate in the instrument cluster, something
is obviously wrong, and there is not a code reader on the planet that will tell you what’s
wrong, they will only give you a code that is related to the part/circuit in question. These
parts stores check codes for free, for what reason? Hmm!

Thanks again, Ron

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