I have a kenmore elite dishwasher model 665.12783k310 which…

i am still in need of assistance. I know it’s probably late where are at but we can connect matinee tomorrow or Monday. Is there a way to some Joe check the main pcb. I’m very familiar with voltage testing and have a very good Volt/ohm meter.

Thanks for your help so far, I was wondering if you can tell me how difficult it is to access the control board, I see several screws are on the inside of the door, Is it necessary to remove all of them and take the entire door panel apart, or do the electronics just slip out of the top after a few screw (which screws?) are removed.

Thank you for the help, I did notice that at the link you provided, it says that the part was replaced by part no. Replaced by #W10866118. Does that mean that I can use that circuit board model no. also as an alternative? The reason I ask is because i can find the #W10866118 (new) at a much better price than the other part number one from sears. ($98 vs $265)By the way, I took the door apart and found that the part number in the door was labeled exactly as you had indicated the part number would be.Sorry I am taking a long time to respond between messages, since this is my "home project" and I'm very busy with regular work every day during the daytime.

Okay, so I am getting really frustrated. After I had replaced the diverter motor ( a month or two ago) along with the new seal that it came with, I did not detect any leaks. Fine, thought I was good from there. You advised that I get a new main circuit board, which I did and replaced it yesterday. (I purchased the Electronic control board Replaced board with #W10866118 which is what the website I was linked to said the part had been replaced with.)When I reconnected everything I checked the error codes and I did not see the 9-1 can not detect position of the diverter motor code, but, I did not run it through the complete diagnostic cycle. When i checked the codes before, it came up first thing at the beginning of the cycle so since it didn't pop right up I assumed it was gone. I excitedly put everything back together and rewired it and tried to run some dishes. Now the problem is I am getting a leak from the diverter motor area (never did that before). I will try to send a video. I am also getting a 6-4 code about the float switch being stuck. (Never had that before) And just for further info for you, I happened to run the error codes as soon as I popped off the inner floor clip that attaches to the two tubes that lead to the top sprayer. (I didn't reattach them to run the codes, as I didn't think that would affect any float switch code problems. ) So I am taking it apart again. My questions. why would it leak at the diverter motor when I put a new seal and silicone in there? I work with tiny details in my work so I know as far as I can tell, there was no damage to the seal, although it was a little tight to get in there. Is there something i have to do to the diverter motor during installation to set it to a certain position so that the EC board can identify it? I think I mentioned that I checked very carefully on the connector and even tightened them up carefully after manually cleaning the surfaces of the contact bars within in the nylon connector. Any help you can give me is much appreciated as I have company coming later this weak and the whol kitchen is torn apart. My wife is not too pleased with me :-(

Also, is there a right side up and down on the seal? Because the two surfaces look different, one is kind of flat, and the other has more of a round circular groove around the seal,

An update, I found a tiny little scratch on the inside cylindrical surface of where the grommet seal goes. Must have happened when I took the old one out (which was really stuck). I don't want to have to have to buy a whole new sump part, I had placed silicone grease to get the new grommet seal in, but it was leaking with that in it, so apparently that won't work. I am thinking about putting a small piece of teflon tape , or maybe plumbers putty at that edge to see if that might work. Any suggestions?I guess I could just seal it with a touch of epoxy glue in that little spot realizing that next time it goes I will be getting a new dishwasher or new sump part. ?

Here are some pics: Any ideas on the small scratched area? And which side of the grommet seal should face the water inside the dishwasher?

Which way should the flat part of the seal face? Toward the upper or water side?

thanks, ***** ***** ideas on the 6-4 float valve stuck code which just showed up ?

I made sure. One thing that I thought about, when I start the error self diagnostic cycle, are the codes it is giving me at the beginning just a history of past codes? I see them flash up and I don't wait for the diagnostic mode to complete because I am thinking I still have a problem. Is it necessary to let it go through a complete diagnostic cycle before it resets the codes?

Do you happen to know about how long it takes, because sometimes I think I have opened it when it did not sound like anything was happening. Does it like say "complete" on the front when it is done?