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Sorry to hear you are having appliance trouble, I know how frustrating that can be! Do you have a meter to perform any electrical testing with?
Do you have a meter to perform any electrical testing with?
perfect! Can you turn the oven to bake and test between the two wires on the bake element, looking for 240 VAC or 0 VAC, please? Do the same for the broil element, please.
Excellent, thank you! Be careful while testing so not to short your meter leads! ;-)
As I expected, thank you. Please allow me just a few minutes to prepare some information for you, thank you!
If you look on the back of the oven control, you will see a terminal labeled DLB OUT. That is the L2 output to all 3 elements, the bake, broil and convection. One relay controls all of the L2 output and that relay has failed. The oven control will need to be replaced. All connections simply unplug and plug in, making for an easy repair!
The link below is to the part you will need!
Access to the control is gained by removing the knobs and then the retaining nuts below each one of them. Once those plastic nuts are off, the glass panel will come off, exposing the control. See the attached picture.
Please know you may post back at any time should you need further assistance or have follow up questions. I am always happy to help!
Thank you so much!
Hello, I am just following up to see how things were going. How else may I help with this issue?
Are you certain you tested the voltages correctly? Are the top burners getting red hot?
Well, provided the 240 VAC to the board is correct and the board works, there is nothing else that would make the elements not heat and the voltage be 0 VAC when the oven is on other than a faulty relay on the Oven Control.
See the attached schematic.
I understand, thank you. I am sorry you are still having trouble with it but please know I will be here to work through it with you until it is working!
We need to test the voltage to the elements again. Is it still 0 VAC between each of the two wires on each element when the oven is on? The control is energized with both the L1 and L2 leg of the 240 VAC supply. There is an individual relay for each of the elements for the L1 supply and one common one for the L2 supply.
You can test at the cord. Provided no wiring issues in the harness, if you have it at the cord terminals it should be at the control.
Are you getting 240 VAC between the red and black, though, the outside terminals?
Okay, so you are still missing one side of the voltage supply.
If you have 0 VAC on all 3 elements, then it is the L2 relay or all 3 of the L1 relays, not likely.
I don't have access to a board schematic but that is not likely the cause. On the element wires, do you see the connection where they all 3 connect to the brown wire?
That is definitely burnt, holy cow!
Okay, so you won't be able to disconnect that connector. If we can isolate the L1 and L2 we can figure out which one is not there. But since the element wires are the same color on each terminal that won't work unless we can determine which is L1.
Provided the new control is good, the issue has to be wiring related.
No error codes on the display, right?
So it has to be control related. If you are comfortable removing the control so you can test right at the control outputs we can tell real quick with a couple of voltage checks.
I would open the control area and see if you can test the voltages at the control. It is a very difficult area to test at, though.
Okay, thank you for your patience!
First test is between L1 IN and L2 IN, looking for 240 VAC.
Should be black and red heavy wires.
The L1 is on the side of the board and should have a larger black wire.
It should be over by the smaller plugs.
Okay, let's look at the other side. The side farthest from the smaller connectors, there should be a white wire, then an open spot, then a black wire.
Okay, so we have 240 VAC to the board. Now, with the oven turned on, measure from the DLB OUT terminal, brown wire and the BAKE yellow wire, looking for 240 VAC, please.
Correct, that black wire is the L1 in. Still see 240 VAC to red?
No, the DLB OUT is in the other large connector. Should be red, blue, brown, orange, yellow, blue.
So with bake turned on, you should see 240 VAC from brown to yellow in that connector.
In that pic, third from the bottom, L2 OUT.
Brown wire with the white stripe is the L2 OUT.
So with bake turned on, you should see 240 VAC from brown with white stripe to yellow.
Okay, so that board is bad. You have 240 VAC to it but not out. Is it burnt anywhere like the last one?
Test from the red to the yellow with bake on. Do you read 240 VAC?
Red with white stripe to yellow I mean, sorry.
Test from the red with white stripe to the yellow with bake on. Do you read 240 VAC?
Do you read 240 VAC from the red with white stripe to the black L1 in that other connector?
See attached page
Okay, so that board is bad. Is it showing on the display that it is set to a bake mode? Can you hear the relays clicking when you turn it on?
You are pressing BAKE, selecting temperature then START?
Okay, so that board is bad. You have 240 VAC to it and it is showing you have it programmed correctly but no output. Did you order it new or from eBay or Amazon?
Okay, so I would call them and tell them it has been tested as defective and request a replacement.
Okay, sorry this has been such a nightmare for you but from the testing we (you) have done we have shown the board to be faulty.
They should, they are food to work with. That is why I refer them.
I am not sure, you could phone them. Their number is 1-***-***-****.
Wow! Are you sure none of the elements are shorted to ground on the chassis?
I wonder if there is a wire that may be bare at some spot that is moving enough to short to ground intermittently. That is a high voltage arc failure. I think there is a wiring issue.
Heat oftentimes will make the insulation melt and cause intermittent issues, especially if the insulation is breaking down and the wiring is getting close to the oven cavity.
Nothing for that exact model but wiring issues are almost always around the oven cavity and where the wiring harness bends.
The entire top will need to be removed, a pretty major undertaking.
I don't blame you. It is a project but on an older range it may not be worth the effort unless you are looking at a major remodel to replace it.