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Engineer-Tech
Engineer-Tech, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 1694
Experience:  Years of Repair Experience, Bachelor's Electrical Engineering Technology, MBA
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Kenmore electric dryer. Model #110.60022010. Runs, but no

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Kenmore electric dryer. Model #110.60022010. Runs, but no heat.
I have power to both legs.
Have tested the following for continuity and all are good:
heater element (also no visible signs of damage, shorts, arcing)
both thermal fuses on left site of the heater canister
cycling thermostat
fuse near the cycling thermostatWhat else is there to test? How do I restore heat?I have photos showing the components I have tested if that would be helpful.

Hello this is Steve and I will be helping you.

Please let me know what you used as a reference when you checked for voltage at the source.

Customer: replied 15 days ago.
Not sure I understand your question.

Using a multimeter, I measured
110V between left and middle wires
110V between right and middle wires
220V between left and right wires

Ok, did you take those measurements while the dryer was running on heat mode? They must be measured while under a load in order to get a relevant reading.

Customer: replied 15 days ago.
No. The dryer was not running. Didn't even think of that. I will measure again with drying running and send you another message in a couple of minutes.

Ok.

Customer: replied 15 days ago.
No difference with the dryer off or running/under load.
Actually I am getting more like 125V per leg and 250V total.

Ok, If all of the components you tested were good then what's left is the timer and the motor centrifugal switch.

Customer: replied 15 days ago.
Can you tell me more about this?
Where are these parts? Can I test them to determine which is not working?

To test the centrifugal switch, find L1 at the terminal block (the black wire going into the workings of the dryer). Reference that and check both sides of the heater with the dryer running. If you get 240V at either side of the element, then the centrifugal switch is good. If not it is bad.

 

To test the timer. Find L2 at the terminal block (red wire going into the workings of the dryer). Reference that and check the voltage with the other lead at the heating element. If you get 240V at either side, then the timer is good. If not, it is bad.

Here is a link to the motor: HERE

Here is a link to the timer: HERE

Customer: replied 15 days ago.
To clarify:
I am checking voltage with one lead on the black wire where the power cord meets the internal wiring on the block with each side of the heater element?
And both should give me a reading of 240V if the the timer is good?
Hope my multimeter leads will cover that span.

No. To test the timer, you will put one lead on L2 (Red wire going in) and the other side on the element. 240V means that voltage is properly passing through the timer to the element and that it is good.

Use the black wire going in from the terminal block to reference the element when testing the centrifugal switch.

Customer: replied 15 days ago.
Got it. Not sure why I read 'red' and thought 'black.'
Will reply with results in a couple of minutes.
Customer: replied 15 days ago.
Under load there is NO voltage between L2 (red) and either heater lead.
With the dryer off, I have 240V between L2 (red) and each heater lead.
Customer: replied 15 days ago.
Still need to test the centrifugal switch.
Will do that now.

If you have no voltage between L2 and the heater then voltage is either not making it trough the timer, thermal cutoff, thermostat, or high limit thermostat. Since you checked the last 3, the timer must be bad.

Customer: replied 15 days ago.
Just the opposite testing L1 (black) to the heater element:
No power between L1 and either heater lead when the dryer is off, but 240V when under load.
Customer: replied 15 days ago.
This confirms that it is (only) the timer, correct?

You should get 240V while the dryer is running because the centrifugal switch closes. Based on your test, tjhe motor is good and timer is bad.

Please refer to the link above for the timer. Good luck and please stay safe.

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Customer: replied 15 days ago.
I can find the part online. Any tricks to switching the old one out for the new? Straight forward?

Yes it is very intuative. By the way, here is an article on troubleshooting Whirlpool dryers.

https://techcircuit.org/2020/02/01/whirlpool-electric-dryer-schematic-walk-through-and-troubleshooting/

- PLEASE use the stars at the top or bottom of your screen to rate my service before you leave today. Since we are on the honor system, Just Answer will only credit me for my time if you rate me positively. By giving me a rating of 4 or 5 stars at the TOP RIGHT of your screen I will provide free follow up questions for this appliance after this session. I am not always online, but answer questions as soon as I see them. So if you don't get an answer right away, don't worry, I log on daily to respond to questions. Thank you.

Engineer-Tech and 5 other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 15 days ago.
Thanks so much for your help.

You're welcome.