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I have a Kenmore refrigerator, model 106-50584001. The

I have a Kenmore refrigerator...
I have a Kenmore refrigerator, model 106-50584001. The icemaker water flow has stopped working. I have replaced the icemaker module on the icemaker itself. To check to see if the water would flow, I jumpered pins V and H together but no water would flow. I checked the water valve connector to the solenoid that opens and closes the water valve for the icemaker but no voltage is present on the pins with pins V and H jumpered in the icemaker. The resistance on the solenoid is ~175 ohms. My question is what else on the fridge controls the voltage to the icemaker water valve?
JA: Can you guesstimate how old your Kenmore is? And just to clarify, what's the exact model?
Customer: It's about 15 years old
JA: Do you plan on doing the work yourself?
Customer: Yes, if I can.
JA: Anything else we should know to help you best?
Customer: The water valve to the water dispenser on the front of the fridge is working fine. However, cannot get the water to flow like it should to the icemaker.
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Answered in 1 minute by:
10/21/2017
Engineer-Tech
Engineer-Tech, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 653
Experience: Years of Repair Experience, Bachelor's Electrical Engineering Technology, MBA
Verified

Hello and welcome to Just Answer. My name is ***** ***** I will be helping you with your refrigerator . Please give me a moment to review your question.

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Can you tell me if the icemaker is making a full 360 degree rotation and ending up in the proper resting position?

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Customer reply replied 28 days ago
it is. I've even manually added water to the icemaker tray and it does make ice fine and then dispense fine. I have replaced the module on the icemaker but has not fixed the problem.

Have you hooked a voltmeter to the water valve when the icemaker is freely turning to confirm whether or not you are getting voltage to the valve?

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Customer reply replied 28 days ago
I have checked the pins to the connector on the icemaker water valve, after jumpering pins V and H on the icemaker module, but no voltage is present. I did not check the voltage when the icemaker is turning, as I thought it would not provide voltage the same time it was rotating to remove any ice in the tray.

L and V are the 2 points that when jumpered will energize the water valve.

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Customer reply replied 28 days ago
Sorry Steve, I meant L and V not H.

Ok, so you get no voltage at the water valve when you jumper V and H?

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Customer reply replied 28 days ago
FRom what I have been reading, by jumpering L and V, water valve should supply voltage to the icemaker water valve, but with them jumpered, not getting any voltage, so I'm thinking there is something else in the fridge that controls the voltage to the valve?....is that correct thinking on this problem?

One moment.

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Customer reply replied 28 days ago
correct, no voltage to the valve connector. I think the solenoid is fine as the resistance appears to be correct across the leads.

The resistance seems fine. Sometimes the solenoids short out, but yours appears to have not done that. To answer your question, there is a set of boards that control the icemaker, but they don't control the voltage to the water valve. It comes directly from the icemaker. Twice, I have seen where the wire that goes from the icemaker to the water valve snapped inside of the refrigerator lining. Unfortunately this is not something that can be repaired without tearing into the liner in an exploratory fashion in an effort to locate the break in the wire. I believe based on the information you have given me, that this is what happened.

- I hope I have earned a five star rating from you. Since we are on the honor system, Just Answer will only credit me for my time if you rate me positively. A rating of 4 or 5 stars at the TOP RIGHT of your screen will allow free follow up questions for this appliance through this link. Thank you.

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Customer reply replied 28 days ago
Also, I have good continuity in the tan colored wire from the icemaker to the water valve, so what other wire could have snapped?

Then if you have continuity, you should get 110 volts from neutral to that wire right at the icemaker. If not, then you may have a bad neutral. Does water come out of the dispenser?

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Customer reply replied 28 days ago
Steve, I pulled the connector off the icemaker (4 pins) and measured 107 volts between black and white wires.

What about between the tan and white wires when L and V are jumpered? Also, did you replace the icemaker due to this existing issue?

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Customer reply replied 28 days ago
I'm checking the voltage right at the connector (after removed from the icemaker) and no voltage present between white and tan pins. Should there be?

That is between neutral and the water valve, yes.

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Customer reply replied 28 days ago
I did not replace the entire icemaker only the icemaker module.
So what do you recommend now?

One moment.

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Did you replace the part that contains the motor and cams?

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Then something does not make sense. Since I am not there to troubleshoot it, I will opt out. Maybe another expert can help.

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Customer reply replied 28 days ago
Can I expect someone else on line soon to help or will it be sometime later or tomorrow?

When another expert sees this question he or she will click on it if they think they can answer it. Friday night is kind of slow, so you may or may not get someone quickly. It is difficult to tell. Good luck to you.

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Customer reply replied 28 days ago
Thanks, ***** ***** could text me when they're available, would be great.
Kelly
Kelly, Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 23,222
Experience: Highly accurate diagnostician with over 30 years experience!
Verified

Hi, welcome to Just Answer. Sorry to hear you are having appliance trouble, I know how frustrating that can be! My name is ***** ***** I look forward to helping you!

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When you jumpered the L & V points, did you have the door switch closed and the optics board bypassed?

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If you plug the ice maker in and test between L and N, you will likely see 0 volts. When you test at the connector with no load (ice maker unplugged), you will read phantom voltage that is not really there.....

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Customer reply replied 28 days ago
I did have the door closed when L and V were jumpered but did not bypass the optics board....how do you do that?

You have to short between the black and black/white wire on the receiver board. I unplug the board and use a paper clip in the back of the connector but be careful not to short to anything else.

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Once those wires are shorted together, you can tape the door switch closed and then you should read voltage between L & N at the ice maker module and can then jump L to V to energize the valve.

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Customer reply replied 28 days ago
Can the optics board cause no voltage to the icemaker water valve? FYI, I did replace this board about a year ago to fix another issue.
So, is the receiver board on the right ? (meaning the main optics board with the light on it)

Certainly! The voltage to the water valve comes from the ice maker module that you replaced.

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So if the optics board is not bypassed when you jump L & V, it won't have any voltage to the ice maker to send to the valve! :~)

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Customer reply replied 28 days ago
Stand by why I set this up please.

You bet! Again, be careful you do not short anything else when you bypass the receiver board!

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Customer reply replied 28 days ago
Okay, jumpered black and black/white on the connector to the receiver board, so now I hear the water valve working (humming) with L and V jumpered, but no water is flowing. Thoughts?
Customer reply replied 28 days ago
Secondly, so does this appear that I have a bad receiver/optics board?

No, the receiver will not close to energize the ice maker unless the beam is intact and after a delay when the door is closed. Is the rubber tube coming down from the ceiling pliable?

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Customer reply replied 28 days ago
the rubber tube seems fine....could there be a clog somewhere?
Customer reply replied 28 days ago
Kelly, I have to go out for a while, will you still be on line later today?

That tube plugs up in the first 6" or so as it goes through the ceiling. I would remove the water line from the valve and blow through it. If it is clear, replace the water inlet valve. If you cannot blow through the ice maker line, thaw the line in the freezer with a hair dryer until clear or naturally thaw.

If you would be so kind, would you please remember to rate my service at the top or the bottom of the page before you leave today? If you don't, I receive no credit for my work. The deposit you placed stays with the site. You may post back at anytime with follow up questions. Please let me know how I may earn your 5 star rating! Thank you so much!

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Customer reply replied 28 days ago
it water is frozen in that line, would that have caused the valve to stop getting voltage ?..In other words is the receiver or icemaker modules smart enough to know when the icemaker water line is frozen/clogged?

No, the valve was not getting voltage because the ice maker was not getting voltage. It was likely trying to make ice all along but no water.....

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Customer reply replied 28 days ago
Okay, I'll blow out the line to see what happens.

Sounds good, thank you!

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If you would be so kind, would you please remember to rate my service at the top or the bottom of the page before you leave today?

Kelly
Kelly, Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 23,222
Experience: Highly accurate diagnostician with over 30 years experience!
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