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My refrigerator won't drop below 60 but the freezer side is…

Customer Question
My refrigerator won't drop...

My refrigerator won't drop below 60 but the freezer side is working

Contractor's Assistant: What's the make and model of the fridge? And can you guesstimate how old is it?

Model GSH22JFZB BB It came with my new house six years ago in April

Contractor's Assistant: Do you plan on doing the work yourself?

I have no idea what to do

Contractor's Assistant: Anything else we should know to help you best?

I discovered it this am and I have been gone all day and when I returned it still was 60

Submitted: 10 months ago.Category: Appliance
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Answered in 5 minutes by:
9/25/2017
Appliance Technician: Tyler Z., Appliance Doc replied 10 months ago
Tyler Z.
Tyler Z., Appliance Doc
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Satisfied Customers: 89,182
Experience: 9+ years being an appliance technician with factory training.
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Appliance Technician: Tyler Z., Appliance Doc replied 10 months ago

Since the freezer side still works, this sounds like a common issue and it means that your unit is not longer defrosting in the freezer so the refrigerator is not able to steal air to cool down. You'll need to either unplug the unit for 24 hours or remove everything of the freezer and remove the lower back panel inside the freezer to defrost it with a hair dryer. Once all the frost is thawed out, the unit will start working again. To make sure the problem doesn't come back, you'll want to replace the defrost heater. GE's defrost heaters fail often because they are nothing more than a long glass light bulb. Order and replace the defrost heater at the bottom of all the frost and you should be good to go. Below is a link to the defrost heater you'll want to order and replace.

CLICK HERE for defrost heater

Now I did want to point out that there are a few other possibilities like the defrost timer/control board or the defrost sensor, but these rarely fail on this model and there is no way to test the heater for certain to know if it's good or not. The reason is because that the heater is glass and can get water inside of it when it fails so it will show good continuity even when it's bad sometimes. That's why the best course of action is to replace the heater since it's by far the most common problem.

If you really wanted to test the the sensor, look for the white plastic bullet at the top of the silver evaporator coils with 2 small wires going to it. You'd need to cut the wires going to the sensor and then put the sensor in ice water for 5 minutes. The resistance should be right around 16.3 kΩ. If not then the sensor would need to be replaced. I don't advise doing this test because you must cut the wires just to test it so I'd reserve this option in case the problem persists after you replace the heater.

And below is a link to the sensor just on the off chance you need it.

CLICK HERE for sensor

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