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Tom Goellner
Tom Goellner, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 1643
Experience:  32 yrs. experience servicing major appliances and HVAC equipment.
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Had an issue lots of people seem to have with GE Profile,

Customer Question

Had an issue lots of people seem to have with GE Profile, not cooling, no digital display, but interior lights are on I replaced the control board and STILL have the same issue any thoughts on what to try next?
JA: Can you guesstimate how old your GE is? And just to clarify, what's the exact model?
Customer: 2005 Model
JA: Do you plan on doing the work yourself?
Customer: PSS26SGRDSS Model #
JA: Anything else we should know to help you best?
Customer: yes, myself
Submitted: 2 months ago.
Category: Appliance
Customer: replied 2 months ago.
lost the link to the 7 day trial...
Customer: replied 2 months ago.
still there?
Expert:  Appliance Guru replied 2 months ago.

One moment while I get some information for you!

Expert:  Appliance Guru replied 2 months ago.

If there is no display you need to check for power to the display board at the plug harness have you done that?

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Are you referring to the plug harness at the lower left hand side of the front of the fridge (freezer side)?If so, I did check to make sure that connection was clean and plugged in properly (it was already) but I have not checked anything with a multi-meter.I will await your further instructions/advice.Thanks
Expert:  Appliance Guru replied 2 months ago.

On the freezer side check across the red and blue wires for 12 volts DC

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
I checked, limited milli volts, NOT 12V DC for sure.
Unfortunately I am going away for a few days, so further diagnostics will have to wait until next Tuesday or Wednesday.
Expert:  Appliance Guru replied 2 months ago.

OK then you have to check that harness you may have a broken wire.

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
I will try and trace those blue and red wires to the back of the unit and see if I can check them for voltage any other place and also see if there are any broken wires, but I have a hard time believing that a wire would break on a fridge that's just sitting there and not getting moved around at all.What do you think are the chances that the smaller control board on the top of the fridge side is the problem?
Expert:  Appliance Guru replied 2 months ago.

Check for power out of the main board at J4-3 and J4-2 for 12 volts DC

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Just checked, Black lead to the Blue wire and Red to Red, the voltage would jump around a bit, but never more than about .9 VDC, no where near 12 VDC
Customer: replied 2 months ago.
maybe tomorrow morning when I'm fresh we can arrange a phone call...
Expert:  Appliance Guru replied 2 months ago.

Ok no problem!

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
if you are ready for a call, I am here, let me know
Customer: replied 2 months ago.
please tell me what I can check next, we know there is not enough voltage doing to the board...
Customer: replied 2 months ago.
If you cannot help me today, please let me get in touch with another tech...thanks
Expert:  Tom Goellner replied 2 months ago.

Check on the board with the wires disconnected from black to red . Do you get 12 volts DC ?

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
By "disconnected", I am assuming that you mean to pull the plug from J4 off the control board while leaving everything else connected and leaving the fridge plugged in. That is what I did. When I measure volts DC on the J4 connector from Black to Red I get a negligible voltage reading.I read elsewhere that to check for power to the board itself, to test for VDC on the J2 plug from Terminal 3 to Terminal 8.
There was minimal voltage there as well.
Customer: replied 2 months ago.
If you are still working with me, I can tell you that I received other advice to unplug the J2 Connector on board and see if the compressor comes on. It did.And so it seems something is loading down the DC Voltage on board like a fan motor...Any help you can provide from here??
Expert:  Tom Goellner replied 2 months ago.

If the condenser fan is working ( be sure it is not running slow , i.e barely turning ) you can rule that out. Same with the freezer fan. Another prime suspect is the solenoid inside the dispenser that opens and closes the flapper door is shorted and that's drawing down the dc voltage.

Expert:  Tom Goellner replied 2 months ago.

When you unplugged the J2 connector did the display start working ?

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Tom, please confirm if you are still available to answer my questions, my issue has not been solved. Once you confirm, I can give you much more info on what I have tested and replaced thus far.Thanks.
Expert:  Tom Goellner replied 2 months ago.

yes, see your post

Expert:  Tom Goellner replied 2 months ago.

T​his may sound stupid , but you keep reading no DC voltage and this is a new board. Check your meter on a 9 volt battery to see if it is reading DC volts.

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Not sure what test you are referencing Tom, most of what I've tested (as far as thermistors and the defrost circuit) were for Ohms with the unit unplugged.
Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Anyway, I'm thinking about the thermistor that attached to the evaporator coil...it will not register more than about 14,000 Ohms with it detached from the fridge and submersed in ice. From all I read it should register 16,000+ Ohms at 32 degrees F. But yet I replaced the evaporator fan motor (which seemed to solve the other issues) and that old unit also has this thermistor attached to it and that OLD thermistor will register just about the same Ohms at all temperatures as the new one...it just seems very strange that 2 different units (1 brand new) are both registering exactly the same (below spec) Ohm readings...Your thoughts Tom?
Expert:  Tom Goellner replied 2 months ago.

You've taken DC voltage readings from the main board and answered the voltage readings were "neglible" and we are wanting to see 12 volts DC as far as the thermistors they should read about 5,000 ohms at room temp ( 75 deg. ) and 36,000 at 5 deg. ( freezer temp ) the colder the temp the higher the resistance . I also asked if removing the J2 connector from board made the display work .

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
I understand now Tom. Since we last spoke - before anything was working - I have replaced the evaporator motor, that was not working...since that replacement I got all power back, evap motor worked, display returned and cold air was once again blowing...HOWEVER, after 24+ hours of cooling my temps were still too warm (20 freezer and 47 fridge) thus all the other testing I have been doing.If you are available I think we should discuss over the phone. This limited back and forth is not really productive. Let me know if you agree and we can arrange to talk this afternoon.
Expert:  Tom Goellner replied 2 months ago.

B​efore we do the phone conversation - look at the condenser fan - this is a DC motor and it CAN run but too slow, which can cause the condenser to be too hot and the compressor , hence the refrigerant is at a too high temperature and you won't get good cooling. You can even set a small fan to blow on the condenser to see if that makes your temperatures come down in freezer and fresh food sections.

Expert:  Tom Goellner replied 2 months ago.

the site says "timed out " are you still getting my posts ?