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One moment while I get some information for you!
If there is no display you need to check for power to the display board at the plug harness have you done that?
On the freezer side check across the red and blue wires for 12 volts DC
OK then you have to check that harness you may have a broken wire.
Check for power out of the main board at J4-3 and J4-2 for 12 volts DC
Ok no problem!
Check on the board with the wires disconnected from black to red . Do you get 12 volts DC ?
If the condenser fan is working ( be sure it is not running slow , i.e barely turning ) you can rule that out. Same with the freezer fan. Another prime suspect is the solenoid inside the dispenser that opens and closes the flapper door is shorted and that's drawing down the dc voltage.
When you unplugged the J2 connector did the display start working ?
yes, see your post
This may sound stupid , but you keep reading no DC voltage and this is a new board. Check your meter on a 9 volt battery to see if it is reading DC volts.
You've taken DC voltage readings from the main board and answered the voltage readings were "neglible" and we are wanting to see 12 volts DC as far as the thermistors they should read about 5,000 ohms at room temp ( 75 deg. ) and 36,000 at 5 deg. ( freezer temp ) the colder the temp the higher the resistance . I also asked if removing the J2 connector from board made the display work .
Before we do the phone conversation - look at the condenser fan - this is a DC motor and it CAN run but too slow, which can cause the condenser to be too hot and the compressor , hence the refrigerant is at a too high temperature and you won't get good cooling. You can even set a small fan to blow on the condenser to see if that makes your temperatures come down in freezer and fresh food sections.
the site says "timed out " are you still getting my posts ?