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I have an older GE DPSR473EV0WW front load dryer that is not

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Hi. I have an older GE DPSR473EV0WW front load dryer that is not heating. I've traced through all thermostats and heating elements. Current passes through all components. One symptom is that the voltage at the heating element terminals is just 110v, but should be 220v. How should I measure the voltage at the elements? I removed the drum and left it out, unplugged the 3 leads that power the heating element, started the dryer (motor was turning), then measured voltage between each WIRE and GROUND - all measured 110. Am I measuring correctly, or should I measure voltage between terminals rather than between a terminal and ground? Power coming into dryer is L1=110v and L2=110v, and between L1 and L2 = 220v. Thanks, Kurt
JA: Can you guesstimate how old your GE is? And just to clarify, what's the exact model?
Customer: This sounds like a canned message asking me to repeat information I've already given. "I have an older GE DPSR473EV0WW front load dryer ".
JA: Do you plan on doing the work yourself?
Customer: Yes
JA: Anything else we should know to help you best?
Customer: No No

Hello from Just Answer and the Appliance Category
My name is Woody.
I will be glad to assist you today.
I have been servicing ALL Major Brands of Appliances for 37 Years, I own my own Appliance repair Company
And I teach appliance repair at a local Community College.
I have over 100,000 plus in home repairs and over 80,000 internet repairs under my belt.
You will be paying me for my ANSWER to your Appliance Question,, Not for the repair of your appliance hence the name of this site Just Answer.
I will do my best to take the information that you provide to me and make a Diagnosis for you to be able to repair your own Appliance.

Remove one of the leads off the heating element and then test everything again , if you had all the wires on you were getting a back feed of voltage ,that it why you only has 120 .

So then with one wire off you will not get this back feed.

Customer: replied 3 months ago.
All 3 wires were off, with one multimeter probe touching the end of the supply wire, and the other probe touching ground. With all 3 wires connected to the heating element, the element does not glow red like it usually does. Do you want me to leave 2 of the 3 wires connected to the heating element, and just remove one wire?

yes remove one leave two on the element.

Customer: replied 3 months ago.
then attach the multimeter probes where - between the end of the one wired that has been disconnected and ground?

on the two wire still on the heater to ground and then to the single loose lead to test for voltage ,then test the loose lead to each lead still on the heater one at a time with the motor running

Customer: replied 3 months ago.
The heater is the dish style with 2 coils that are separate on the left end and joined together on the right end. So the 2 terminals at 7:00 are #1 (outside coil) and #2 (inside coil), and the one terminal at 5:00 is #3. The "terminal" is the end of the coil, and the "loose lead" is the wire that has been removed from the terminal.With #1 and #2 plugged in, and #3 removed, and with motor running, are these the voltage tests you're asking for?
a) #1 terminal to ground
b) #2 terminal to ground
c) #1 terminal to #3 loose lead
d) #2 terminal to #3 loose lead
Thanks, Kurt

yes on C and D the dryer motor should be running .

Customer: replied 3 months ago.
For all tests, dryer will be plugged in, temperature set to cotton (high) and timer set to 60 minutes. Then, is this what you mean?:
a) motor off, #1 terminal to ground
b) motor off, #2 terminal to ground
c) motor off, #1 terminal to #3 loose lead
d) motor off, #2 terminal to #3 loose lead
e) motor on, #1 terminal to #3 loose lead
f) motor on, #2 terminal to #3 loose lead
Kurt

yes that will be fine the motor has to be running for the centrifugal switch to close and allow the L2 leg of the 240 to go to the heater.

Customer: replied 3 months ago.
Good. I'll perform those 6 tests tonight and reply back with the results. Will that be OK?

oh sure that will be fine!

Customer: replied 3 months ago.
OK - have a great day, and I'll reply back tonight. Bye!

no problem at all !

Customer: replied 3 months ago.
Hi. Here are my results:
For all tests, dryer was plugged in, temperature set to cotton (high), and timer set to Automatic Cotton.
a) motor off, #1 terminal to ground => 120v
b) motor off, #2 terminal to ground => 120v
c) motor off, #1 terminal to #3 loose lead => 25v
d) motor off, #2 terminal to #3 loose lead => 25v
e) motor on, #1 terminal to #3 loose lead => 240v
f) motor on, #2 terminal to #3 loose lead => 240v
Kurt

ok the voltages are correct .

And you have tested the heating element for resistance on both windings? you have 240 to the heater from #1 to #3 and from #2 to #3 with the motor running the element should be getting red hot .

Customer: replied 3 months ago.
34;the element should be getting red hot"That's what I thought, too! I plugged #3 loose lead back onto #3 terminal, plugged in the dryer, and set it on Automatic Cotton, then started the motor. The elements did not heat up.One of the first things I did was test each element coil for resistance, and no shorting to the chassis. That was about 2 weeks ago. Tonight, I unplugged terminals 1, 2,and 3 (so there are no wires connected to the heating elements) and tested resistance:
Resistance between #1 terminal and #3 terminal = 20ohms
Resistance between #2 terminal and #3 terminal = 20ohms
No short from either element to ground.Everything has tested as it should, yet the dryer still does not heat. It's frustrating.
What is the next step?
Kurt

put the leads back on the element and test them again with the dryer running .

e) motor on, #1 terminal to #3 terminal => 240v
f) motor on, #2 terminal to #3 terminal => 240v

This will test the voltage under a load and see if you still have these same voltages

Customer: replied 3 months ago.
Hi,
I got weird readings that made me question my multimeter:e) motor on, #1 terminal to #3 terminal => 0.3v
f) motor on, #2 terminal to #3 terminal => 0.3vAs a sanity check of my multimeter, I measured between terminals and ground, and those readings seem correct:
motor on, #1 terminal to ground => 120v
motor on, #2 terminal to ground => 120v
motor on, #3 terminal to ground => 120vCould there be a break in each coil that opens only when under load?
Thanks, Kurt

Yes your loosing the 240 from 1 to 3 and 2 to 3 .

and it could only be lost under a load ,but also test the incoming voltage to the dryer on that L-1 to L2 when the heater is hooked up and the dryer is running .

That way you can make sure it is not a house hold electrical issue that you think is in the dryer.

Customer: replied 3 months ago.
Thanks.
How do you recommend I "test the incoming voltage to the dryer on that L-1 to L2 when the heater is hooked up and the dryer is running"? It's not easy to test L1 to L2 under the cover plate on the back of the dryer because the cord is short and won't allow me to pull the dryer away from the wall far enough to (safely) get back in there with the cord plugged in. I might be able to meter L1 to L2 at the cord attachment point from inside the dryer, although that's risky to dig down that low inside the cabinet while the motor is running.From the schematic, L1 runs directly to Timer B, and L2 runs directly to Motor 1. With motor running, can I meter between Timer B and Motor 1 and get an accurate voltage reading? It should read 240v, right?
Kurt

Test the incoming voltage with the heater hooked up and the dryer running .

Test it right on the back of the dryer where the cord attaches to the dryer.

First test L1 to L2 with the dryer not running then with the dryer running to see if you have a voltage drop.

Customer: replied 3 months ago.
I'll see if I can do that, but as I mentioned in my previous message, it won't be easy. I'll write back this evening with results. By the way, based upon other people's solutions, I flipped the circuit breaker on and off a few times, and the L1 to L2 measurement at the dryer was 240v. That doesn't mean it isn't an issue with the breaker, but it's not an obvious one.
Kurt

ok yes the dryer L1 to L2 should be 240 volts ,but when the dryer is running we need to see if that 240 is dropping . if it does it is not an issue with the dryer but the house electrical from the outlet to the breaker .

Customer: replied 3 months ago.
Got it. I'll test tonight and send you my results.
Thanks, Kurt

no problem Kurt!

Customer: replied 3 months ago.
Hi. I'm sad to say that the reading is 240v, which is what it should be, so other than the elements not getting hot, we still have not discovered the issue. Note that I took the reading between Motor 1 and Timer B - is that a valid test? If you really need the reading to be between L1 and L2 at the cord connection block, I'll get that for you - it's just a lot harder. Kurt

yes it needs to be on the cord /terminal block connection

Customer: replied 3 months ago.
Hi.
Temp knob set on Cotton, timer knob set on Automatic Cotton "more dry", all wires plugged into terminals, motor running.
Reading across L1 and L2 at cord /terminal block connection: 240v.
Kurt

ok so then the voltage is not dropping .

I have to suspect it is an issue with the heating element ,it is getting voltage to the elements .

So I would replace the heaters

Customer: replied 3 months ago.
Will do.
Kurt

ok let me know how you come out!

Customer: replied 3 months ago.
New heater housing with new elements - still no heat. Argh!As soon as I pulled the new housing out of the box, I tested the elements - 20ohms each.I also tested the voltage between #1/#2 terminals and #3 loose lead with motor running - still 240v.Every test I've performed has yielded correct results, yet still no heat. I'm going to take a break from this frustration, unless you can suggest something else to investigate.
Kurt

Ok with the leads on the heating element (NOT loose) test the 1-3 and 2-3 to see what the voltage is .

Now if you did this I`m sorry ,I`m just going by your last post ((I also tested the voltage between #1/#2 terminals and #3 loose lead with motor running - still 240v.)

WE need to see if that voltage drops out under a load with the leads attached to the heating element.

Customer: replied 3 months ago.
Same results as "15 July 2017 12:13" above:
- #1 terminal to #3 terminal => 0.3v
- #2 terminal to #3 terminal => 0.3vHeat selector set on Cottons Reg Heat, timer control set on Cottons Automatic, all leads plugged into their terminals, motor running.
Kurt

ok so then that 240 with the #3 lead loose shows 240 from 1-3 and 2-3 but hooked up to the heating element it drops out to only .3 volts .

You need to find out where that voltage is dropping out at.

and with the dryer plugged in and NOT running at the power cord terminal block from L1 to L2 you had 240 volts .

But did you start the dryer and test the L1 to L2 ?

Customer: replied 3 months ago.
See message at "18 July 2017 12:08" above.

ok so you have something that is allowing the voltage to drop out on the L2 Leg to the Heating element.

and the only thing on the L2 leg from the cord to the heater is the centrifugal switch on the motor.

The motor may be running but that L2 side of the switch is giving voltage with out a load (#3 lead off heater) ,but loosing the L2 leg when under load.

You will need to replace the motor ,you can not get the centrifugal switch separately .

The link below is to the part you will need from a highly recommended company rated A+ with the Better Business Bureau.
They offer a 100% money back guarantee, EVEN ON INSTALLED ELECTRICAL PARTS, for an entire year!
They are the only company to allow returns on installed parts for a refund and offer a FULL ONE YEAR WARRANTY!

https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Drive-Motor/WE17X10010/1256970?rcaid=1000070

If you have any questions just reply back to me .

Customer: replied 3 months ago.
Thanks. I'll look into it.
Kurt

ok Kurt good luck!

If you need me again for any other issues you can request me Whrlp Master Tech.

And Even after you rate me Today if you have a question just reply back to me,
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But rating me is the ONLY way I get paid for my time.

Whrlp Master Tech and 2 other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Hi. The dryer is finally heating again, but it took further diagnosis.I purchased a used motor off of Ebay, cleaned it up and installed it, and...no heat. It's possible that both the old motor and new motor were bad, but I didn't want to assume that, so I went back to basics...I unplugged the leads from all 3 heater element terminals, isolating the element from the system.
I created jumper wires from alligator clips and 14 THHN wire and jumped across these terminals:
- Timer B to Heater #1 (L1 path)
- Motor #1 to Heater #3 (L2 path)
Result: outer heating element glowed hot - yay!
I also jumped across these terminals and the inner heating element glowed hot:
- Timer B to Heater #2 (L1 path)
- Motor #1 to Heater #3 (L2 path)So, given a straight path to power, the heater does work.I then removed the jumper running between Motor #1 and Heater #3, reattached the original lead to Heater #3 (leaving the jumper between Timer B and Heater #2), and tested the dryer with motor running. I expected this test to fail if it was another bad motor, but the test succeeded - the inner element glowed hot. This was puzzling, as it meant the problem was not with the motor side of the circuit, but was with the timer side, which had been successfully tested many times so far.I started back at the beginning of the timer circuit - any current running from Timer B to Timer A? Surprisingly, no. I pulled the timer out and found that I could not achieve continuity between B and A through 360* rotation of the timer knob, meaning no current ever left the timer, so the timer was bad. The timer had been replaced as the very first step 3 weeks ago, and had been testing fine, but now was broken. I ordered a new timer, installed it, and the dryer is running properly.I appreciate you walking me through the steps of diagnosing the issue - I learned a lot about the dryer components, how to read a schematic, how the safety features work, how to isolate the tests, etc.
Kurt