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Tyler Z.
Tyler Z., Appliance Doc
Category: Appliance
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Experience:  9+ years being an appliance technician with factory training.
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My Whirlpool Cabrio washer is displaying error code 5d. What

Customer Question

My Whirlpool Cabrio washer is displaying error code 5d. What does this indicate please? Thx Dave
JA: Can you guesstimate how old your Whirlpool is? And just to clarify, what's the exact model?
Customer: About 5 years old. A top loader. Model WTW7340XW0, serial C01272550, type 580........
JA: Do you plan on doing the work yourself?
Customer: Yes
JA: Anything else we should know to help you best?
Customer: It was working fine yesterday morning, and suddenly the rinse and drain time was very excessive. The main dial was flashing green LED's around the periphery and when I hit the start switch to pause the cycle, the 5d code appeared. It seemed to stay stuck on 12 minutes. I checked the small load and rebalanced. Initially, the fault code was UL for unbalanced load?
Submitted: 11 months ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 11 months ago.

Hello. My name is ***** ***** I'll be helping you with your appliance question today. Please wait a few moments while I review your question.

Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 11 months ago.

You may know this already but 5d means that the washer is detecting suds. So there actually should be SOME water all the time below the inner basket, but nothing that you can physically see. That being said, suds is just an error stating that there are either too many suds in the tub or the washer isn't draining properly. So I'm going to list both scenarios and what to do for each.

If you see water in the tub and it's not actually draining:

You'll need to tip the the washer backwards and unplug the unit so you can get under the washer. The drain pump is mounted to the back of the washer under the tub. It will need to be removed to check for any blockages. If you find nothing, then drain all the water out and try the washer again. If you get the error code again and you found nothing in the drain pump, you need to replace the drain pump itself.

If the washer is draining normally but still giving the error:

This means that the washer isn't sensing the water level properly. You'll need to remove the control panel and there is a main control board in the back right corner. The water level sensor is actually built into this board. Disconnect the small rubber hose connected to the control board and blow through the hose to make sure it's clear. Try the cycle again and if you continue to get the error, replace the control board. Below is a video that shows you how to replace the control board. The video is about an F1 error, but the control board in question is the same part, and replacement is the same so ignore the error.

CLICK HERE for video

The water causes the tub to float so you still need to check the drain line. If that checks good, then you need to check the tub bearing and see if it's good. If it's good, replace the control board still. If the shaft is rusted and the basket can't pull up and down easily, then you need to replace the parts or stand it down a bit.

Below are the steps to follow if you are mechanically able to tackle the issue with checking the basket for floating properly or not:

1. Unplug the power cord

2. Lift the top of the washer up, to do this there are 2 latches in the seams between the top and the bottom sections. These latches are about 6 1/2 inches from the right side and left side of the washer. You need to insert a small screwdriver (be careful not to scratch the paint) and push the latch while lifting the top section.

3. The top will actually fold back leaving the inner tube fully exposed. Support the glass lid so it doesn’t get damaged because it is very heavy and will fall open when you flip the top back.

4. Remove the plastic top of the tub. There is one hose connected at the back and there are several snaps around the outer edge that hold it on. Remove the hose and unsnap the snaps and set it aside.

5. Remove the cap covering the very center of the agitator. It is just snapped in place and can be pried off with a small screwdriver.

6. Remove the center screw under the cap.

7. Remove the agitator, you need to lift it evenly and might have to work your way around by pulling on one of the three fins and then the next and so on. I also had luck using a small pair of needle nose pliers and grabbing a small lip inside the area where the screw was and pulling from there.

8. Remove the 6 Phillips screws in the middle holding the plastic top gear in place. Be very careful you don’t drop one of the screws because it can fall through the slots in the basket and be lost below.

9. Remove the plastic top gear.

10. Pull the plastic lower gear off of the splined shaft. It should pull right off.

11. Now you need to pull the basket up and off of the shaft. This is where you might have problems because the basket might be corroded to the shaft. If you can grab the basket on both sides under the outer lip and pull upward it might pull up. If not, then you will have to figure out a way to get it off.

12. Once the basket is off you will notice there is liquid inside of it. That is factory sealed in there so do not worry about that, it is normal.

13. With the basket is off you will be able to see that the shaft is probably corroded and the inside bearing on the basket is corroded. Clean these both off very good and check to see if the basket can easily go back on the shaft and slide up and down without getting stuck. You may need to sand and file the shaft a little bit to get it totally cleaned up. The inner bearing of the basket is plastic so it is pretty easy to clean with light sanding.

Also make sure that the yellow/white "ish" hubs at the bottom of the inner basket are not stripped out when you take the inner basket out.

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