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May I please have your model number so I am able to provide you with accurate, model specific information?
Thank you. You have verified water to the refrigerator is good? Has the filter been replaced recently?
Is ti allowing water with the bypass in place?
Thank you, ***** ***** inlet valve is likely faulty if you have verified water to the valve. The valve is mounted in the back of the cabinet, down in the lower right corner. It is pretty easy to replace once the rear access panel is removed. The valve your model takes is available below.
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Yes, at the very bottom in the back.
See 619A at the link below.
Sure, you will just need to shut the water off, of course.
You won't be able to see any visible issues, so if you can verify the water is good to the valve, it will need to be replaced.
To replace the valve, yes. I would leave it all connected until you have the new valve, though.
The paddle sends a message to the main control board and then the board energizes the valve. The ice maker has input to it, too.
It is not likely if both the ice maker and the water at the door stopped.
The easiest way is to follow a link back from your email.
Did you hold the water dispenser valve open for a couple minutes to purge the air after installing the new valve?
It sounds like the issue is not water related but an issue with the dispenser. If you place your ear on the door and press the paddle, do you hear the valve humming or buzzing?
I don't think the valve is getting energized. Do you have a meter to perform any electrical testing with?
No, if you can access the water valve you replaced, we need to see if you are getting 120 VAC at the wires on the dispenser valve when the lever is depressed at the dispenser.
No, we are just determining if power is being sent to the valve solenoid.