How JustAnswer Works:
  • Ask an Expert
    Experts are full of valuable knowledge and are ready to help with any question. Credentials confirmed by a Fortune 500 verification firm.
  • Get a Professional Answer
    Via email, text message, or notification as you wait on our site. Ask follow up questions if you need to.
  • 100% Satisfaction Guarantee
    Rate the answer you receive.
Ask Randy 43 Your Own Question
Randy 43
Randy 43, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 3771
Experience:  20 yrs experience 18 in home,gas license , refrigeration expert
Type Your Appliance Question Here...
Randy 43 is online now
A new question is answered every 9 seconds

I am having a problem with my Samsung DV331AER dryer. It

Customer Question

I am having a problem with my Samsung DV331AER dryer. It turns on and allows me to see the settings, but it shows an hourglass and doesn't actually start the cycle. There is no delay mode setting I can find, and I just took the top cover off to check the belt. It is in tact and looks fine.
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  Randy 43 replied 1 year ago.

when you press on ,does it count down like it is running

? thx randy

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
But the drum is not turning.
Expert:  Randy 43 replied 1 year ago.

i dont have phone access at the moment you want to continue ?i can tell you what the defective part is

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
please. Is isn't just a reboot or something?
Expert:  Randy 43 replied 1 year ago.

no its not a reboot ,its a thermal fuse on the blower housing ..there are two of them one onthe heater and one on the blower housing does take disassembly access but its a inexpensive part

Thermal Fuse

RepairClinic Item #(###) ###-####/p>

Watch Video:

Skill Level: Skill Level

Dryer thermal fuse (also called the thermal limit). Located on the blower housing. The thermal fuse blows to cut off power to the dryer if the dryer overheats. If the thermal fuse has blown, the dryer won't start. The thermal fuse cannot be reset--if the fuse has blown, it must be replaced.

OEM Part - Manufacturer #DC47-00016A

Suggested tools:


Expert:  Randy 43 replied 1 year ago.

its always the belt or thermal fuse

Expert:  Randy 43 replied 1 year ago.

you have confirmed the belt as being ok

Expert:  Randy 43 replied 1 year ago.

if you have a meter you can confirm this part as defective

Expert:  Randy 43 replied 1 year ago.

drum as to come out to gain access

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I ran out to grab the part before the appliance parts store closed. I have a new one here. I won't be able to make the repair until late tonight or early tomorrow morning. I will let you know what I find.
Expert:  Randy 43 replied 1 year ago.

ok sounds good ,ill be here

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I have pulled apart the dryer, and gotten access to the thermal cutoffs. I checked both (heater and blower housing) with a multimeter, and they have continuity. Less than a tenth of an ohm. I don't think these things are the problem.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
There isn't much lint in the dryer, so I don't think it got clogged up and created an overheat condition or anything. The belt is in good shape. I guess I should have plugged it back in before taking it all apart and seen if it was just some controller fault or something?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Actually, it's about half an ohm or so in terms of resistance on each of the thermal limits. I checked the heater element, and it's about 10 ohms. I checked what I think is the thermostat on the heater (between the thermal cutoff and the power connections for the heater) and it's less than half an ohm. So all that seems fine, right? Then I checked the component right next to the thermal limit on the blower housing. It clocked in at about 12.7kOhms. Is that another thermostat?Jason
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I have disassembled the dryer and gone through all the parts in the technical information sheet on the back of the cabinet. Here are my findings Thermostat 1 (blower housing thermal limit): 0.3 Ohms Thermistor (blower housing): 11.8 kOhms (it's about 73F in my house right now) Thermostat 3 (heater assy): 0.3 Ohms Thermostat 4 (heater assy): 0.2 Ohms Heater Element: 9.8 Ohms Door Switch: Checks out in both pressed and unpressed positions Belt Cut-Off Switch: Checks out Lamp Resistance: 120 Ohms (sheet says it should be 80 - 100 Ohms) Centrifugal Switch Contacts 3 and 4): 1.8 Ohms (sheet says it should be 2.88 Ohms) Centrifugal Switch Contacts 4 and 5): 1.8 Ohms (sheet says it should be 3.4 Ohms)