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I have a Whirlpool Duet dryer (model WGD9200SQ0) that doesn't

Customer Question
work after a sustaining a...
I have a Whirlpool Duet dryer (model WGD9200SQ0) that doesn't work after a sustaining a power surge (generator). I'd like to know where all the fuses are for it. I know it has a thermal fuse I'd need to check, but what else do I look for? The interior light goes on but there no power to the control panel at all.
Submitted: 2 years ago.Category: Appliance
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Answered in 19 minutes by:
7/31/2015
Appliance Technician: Appliance Tech Dave, Home Appliance Technician replied 2 years ago
Appliance Tech Dave
Appliance Tech Dave, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 2,619
Experience: 30 years experience specializing in Whirlpool, KitchenAid and Kenmore
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Hello, this is Dave. On your dryer the thermal fuse would only keep it from heating. You say there is no power to the control panel? Have you checked that with a meter or do you mean there are no light lit up?
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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
Good catch. There are no lights lit up, and pressing Power does nothing.
Customer reply replied 2 years ago
(The interior light inside the clothes compartment goes on when the door is opened)
Appliance Technician: Appliance Tech Dave, Home Appliance Technician replied 2 years ago
Okay, the interior light operation confirms power to the control and basic operation but we need to do more checks. There is a low voltage power supply to check first if you have a meter. Here is a link to what it looks like. Remove the top of the dryer to see this. http://www.searspartsdirect.com/whirlpool-dryer-parts/3407228/0026/110/model-WGD9200SQ0/1198/0151200.htmlLook for 120vac in on the black and white wires and 5vdc out on the small wires to the control.
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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
Multimeter showed 120.2V AC for black & white, between 4.8 and 5.1 for the controller side ( measured with the positive side toward the black and white i.e. left side of socket).
Appliance Technician: Appliance Tech Dave, Home Appliance Technician replied 2 years ago
That confirms the powers supply is ok. There are still two boards, the console electronics and the main control. Wil it let you enter diagnostics? Here are the steps from the techsheet. Let me know what happens. Be sure the dryer is in standby mode (plugged in with all indicators off, or with only the Done indicator on). 2. Select any one button (except Pause/Cancel) and follow the steps below, using the same button (remember the button): a. b. c. d. e. Press/hold 2 seconds Release for 2 seconds Press/hold 2 seconds Release for 2 seconds Press/hold 2 seconds 3. If this test mode has been entered successfully, all indicators on the console are illuminated for 5 seconds with 8:88 showing in the Estimated Time Remaining three-digit display. If there are no saved fault codes or active fault codes, all indicators on the console will momentarily turn off, then stay on with 8:88 displayed.
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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
Negative. But I did notice a very faint sound (almost a clicking) coming from under the front control panel (toward the center) when this procedure was performed.
Appliance Technician: Appliance Tech Dave, Home Appliance Technician replied 2 years ago
Okay, there is not a very good test for the user control other than diagnostics. Since the main control works to turn on the inside light I think your problem is the front control. You can look for the 5vdc on the PS2-1 to PS2-3 on the main control. If it is not there it is definetly the user control and not the main control. Let me know what else you need.
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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
Can you identify the controllers for me i.e. which is "user", which is "main", etc. ? Thanks. Also, are PS2-1 and PS2-3 clearly marked? Thanks.
Appliance Technician: Appliance Tech Dave, Home Appliance Technician replied 2 years ago
Here is a link to the parts list. The user control is #18 but if you get 5vdc at the main control on PS2-1 to PS2-3 the problem could be the user interface #19. Under cabinet parts is the main control #53 and that is where you can look for the 5vdc on the PS2-1 to PS2-3. It is a 3 wire connector. http://www.searspartsdirect.com/whirlpool-parts-dryer-parts/model-WGD9200SQ0/1198/0151200.html?searchType=modelSearch&prst=&q=WGD9200SQ0&searchTerm=WGD9200SQ0&shdPart=
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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
I replaced the user control -- no joy.
Appliance Technician: Appliance Tech Dave, Home Appliance Technician replied 2 years ago
So you did have the 5vdc on the PS2-1 to PS2-3? That leaves the main control. I hate it when diagnostics doesnt work.
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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
Yes.
I ordered and installed parts #18 and #19 ( user controllers) as described earlier in this thread. There's still no response to the Power button, so my first assumption is that I installed them incorrectly. Is there a reference I can consult as to details of these components? What are my next steps? or is it time to end this experiment in DIY repair and call a repairman?Is there some sort of repair guide to which I can have access? I don't have much experience with electronics, but I am a software engineer, and I believe I can hack my way though it.
Customer reply replied 2 years ago
Never mind the last paragraph. I was supposed to delete it.
Appliance Technician: Appliance Tech Dave, Home Appliance Technician replied 2 years ago
The main control is where you would find the PS2 connector. It is above the drum on the left side. #53 in the link below. http://www.searspartsdirect.com/whirlpool-dryer-parts/model-WGD9200SQ0/1198/0151200/W0804088/00002.html
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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
I had the 5vdc value for P2-1 to P2-3. That's why I replaced parts #18 and #19. What are my next steps? I want to determine if #18 and #19 are receiving power as expected. Is that the correct next step?
Appliance Technician: Appliance Tech Dave, Home Appliance Technician replied 2 years ago
P2-1 to P2-3 are on the main control above the drum on left side and is the 5vdc power from the front electronics. P2-1 and P2-2 on the front electronics is the power supply that should also be 5vdc. I think you already did that check?
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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
I tested only the main control. I haven't tested anything on #18 and #19. To do so, I would have to remove them from their brackets, correct? Can you be more specific about the procedures for testing #18 and #19? Thanks.
Appliance Technician: Appliance Tech Dave, Home Appliance Technician replied 2 years ago
The test for the front control, (#18) when diagnostics won't work is, power in, power out. Power in is 5vdc at pins P003-2 P003-3 or at the small power supply board near the main control on P2-2 P2-1. Power out of #18 is on P005-3 VDD to P005-1 VSS or at the main control on P2-1 VDD to P2-3 VSS and should be 5vdc. If these voltages are correct there should be nothing wrong upfront and the main control is suspect.
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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
Sorry about the long wait in between my responses, but there not a great deal of time to devote to this.My latest tests:Power in
P003-2 to P003-3 : 5.42vdcPower out
P005-3 to P005-1 : 4.93vdc
Confirmed on Main Control P2-1 to P2-3 : 4.93vdcAttempt at Diagnostics:
1. Press 2sec, release 2sec
2. Press 2sec, release 2sec
3. Press 2sec, release
Reaction: all lights flash momentarily and, occasionally, a single chirp sounds. The chirp is not consistent, however.I think the Frankenstein monster's finger just twitched!Many times I got the reaction after the fourth press/release cycle instead of the third.Also, please note that the kit I actually received was W10739618, which is their new version of the original #18/#19Thanks.
Appliance Technician: Appliance Tech Dave, Home Appliance Technician replied 2 years ago
Okay, the power supply board is okay and the main control is getting proper voltage as well. It sounds like you are now getting response from buttons up front that you didn't before so there was a problem there too. The main control is your problem.
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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
Q1: Does that mean that the main control must be replaced?Q2: Diagnostics isn't working the way you originally described it. Is that a problem?Q3: There is a place on #18 labelled "D3" on the face. It looks like some sort of reset button.Thanks.
Appliance Technician: Appliance Tech Dave, Home Appliance Technician replied 2 years ago
Yes the main control is damaged and needs to be replaced. For diagnostics to work you need the front control and the main control to function. The front controls key in the sequence but the main control performs the steps. I don't know what D3 is used for but I suspect it is used for engineering testing or programing.
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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
Got it. I'm $240 into this project. Another $240 for the main control brings me to $480. I'm still below the cost of replacement.
Appliance Technician: Appliance Tech Dave, Home Appliance Technician replied 2 years ago
Ouch! Power surges are expensive!!!
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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
Ok. I received and installed the new main control. Now when I hit Power, the dryer tries to power up, emits 3 rapid beeps, then shuts off again. Diagnostics (4 cycles of press 2 sec/release 2 sec) still briefly flashes all the lights, sometimes chirps, then nothing.What now?Thanks.
Appliance Technician: Appliance Tech Dave, Home Appliance Technician replied 2 years ago
When you try to enter diagnostics are you using two different buttons and holding each for 2 seconds at a time and repeating a total of three times? The techsheet has this section (below) but you already replaced the electronics.Pushing Power button causes dryer to beep, but no indicators light. 1. Check console electronics harness connections to the machine control. 2. Replace machine control electronics.
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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
Re: diagnostics
I choose one button and then, with that button only, go through 3-4 cycles of
a) Pressing for 2 seconds
b) Releasing for 2 secondsRe: Power button behavior
When first pressed, the power button behaves exactly like it used to. It plays its little tune, the lights come on, and you see 15 minutes on the display. Immediately after that, though, you hear the 3 beeps in rapid succession, then everything goes dark again.
Appliance Technician: Appliance Tech Dave, Home Appliance Technician replied 2 years ago
You need to use two buttons and go back and forth. Use the two buttons 2 seconds each and then repeat again two times. Total of 3 times. I thought that there was a control problem since diagnostics wasn't working. See if diagnostics works this way.
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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
I'm still not clear on the procedure. Earlier in the thread, you quoted a document that said explicitly to use the same button. Perhaps I misunderstood. At any rate, am I to alternate buttons, or press the two simultaneously? Thanks.
Appliance Technician: Appliance Tech Dave, Home Appliance Technician replied 2 years ago
I double checked and the original steps I gave you are correct. You use the same button. This is different in later production and hard to keep straight in mind. When we started there were no lights on the control panel but now they light but only for a few seconds?
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Appliance Technician: Appliance Tech Dave, Home Appliance Technician replied 2 years ago
Does the display flash or just go out?
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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
Thanks for checking.Diagnostics behavior: lights flash; sometimes brief chirp, then nothing.Power button behavior: lights come on, numerical display shows 15 minutes, tone sequence sounds (all this is the normal start), then it immediately powers down.
Customer reply replied 2 years ago
I forgot to include the three quick beeps immediately before powering down.
Appliance Technician: Appliance Tech Dave, Home Appliance Technician replied 2 years ago
This still sounds like a control but they were all replaced, is that correct? Maybe there is something shorted that pulls down voltage. We can try to disconnect the outputs on the main control and then see if it stays powered up when we try to start. If it does we can add back each connect one at a time to see what is causing the problem. The outputs are everything except the P2 connector from the front electronics.
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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
The only control that wasn't replaced was this one.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/whirlpool-dryer-parts/3407228/0026/110/model-WGD9200SQ0/1198/0151200.html
Appliance Technician: Appliance Tech Dave, Home Appliance Technician replied 2 years ago
That's the power cube and we have correct voltage from it so it "shouldn't" be a problem. All I can suggest it to first disconnect the connector that goes to the main control from the front the P2 connector and then see if it will program. Then connect it back depending what happens and remove all the main outputs I mentioned and try to see if it will program and keep the control lit when you press start. Something odd has happened to your dryer. I just had a thought. Have you tried the dryer off a different outlet that is on a different breaker?
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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
1) I unplugged the Main Control P2 connector -- same results.2) I replaced the Main Control P2 connector and removed everything else from the Main Control:
-- Power button now only gives 3 beeps, no more light show and tonal extravaganza
-- Diagnostics unchanged3) I unplugged Main Control P2 connector (the Main Control now has nothing at all plugged into it). Same results as (2).It chirp every 30 seconds or so.
Appliance Technician: Appliance Tech Dave, Home Appliance Technician replied 2 years ago
With the P2 removed it is programing with only the console electronics so it seems the issue is up there. You replace all those controls and confirmed aprox. 5vdc at P003-2 and P003-3. This indicates that there is no problem with the power supply cube but it is all that is left. This make no sense.
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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
I'm going to break everything down again and start all the tests from the beginning. I'll update you in a couple of days. Thanks for sticking with me through this.
Appliance Technician: Appliance Tech Dave, Home Appliance Technician replied 2 years ago
Okay, this is kind of like dropping back to punt. Good luck!
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Appliance Technician: Appliance Tech Dave, Home Appliance Technician replied 2 years ago
.
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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
In my mind, it's more like a time-out. Punting is when I call the repairman ;-)
Appliance Technician: Appliance Tech Dave, Home Appliance Technician replied 2 years ago
Right, I see the distinction.
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