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Kelly, Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
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Experience:  Highly accurate diagnostician with over 30 years experience!
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My friend has a Kenmore Model XXXXXXXXXXX The oven does not

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My friend has a Kenmore Model XXXXXXXXXXX The oven does not get hot. Does this oven use an electronic spark to ignite the pilot or does it use a glow type ignitor? I have not had the chance to look at the unit but am familiar with both types of ignitors. I service furnaces so am familiar with the different type of ignitors but am wondering what the chances of the ignitor being the problem as opposed to some type of control board. Appliances are not my area of expertise but I would have no problem opening up the unit and replacing the most likely part causing the problem.
Thanks for counting on us to help with your appliance problem. My name is XXXXX XXXXX I look forward to helping you! Can you please post the model number again, this time leaving spaces, like 1 2 3. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8?
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

3 6 2 7 5 1 9 1 8 9 0 Hope this helps. Dave

Perfect, thank you! Number 218 in the diagram is the hot surface igniter. The line voltage to that igniter comes from the oven control, the neutral first goes into the gas valve and through the valve bimetal, then on to the igniter. The igniter must draw at least 3.1 amps through the valve bimetal to open it to allow the gas to flow. If the igniter is not getting hot and it is receiving 120 VAC, the igniter is bad. If you have no voltage between those leads, you will need to determine if the line voltage is not making it from the control or of the neutral is not making it through the valve. If no line voltage, the control is faulty. If no neutral, the valve is faulty. Let me know what you find.

Customer: replied 3 years ago.

So first of all I should determine whether or not I am getting 120VAC to the ignitor by simply measuring the 2 leads going in to the ignitor. If I have 120VAC at those leads then the ignitor has to be bad? What would happen if I just measured for continuity through the ignitor. Generally on a furnace, if I have continuity thru the ignitor it is in most cases still good.

If it is not glowing at all, you could do that. Remember it can grow weak and not open the bimetal, but it would still glow. So, no glow, you can test continuity through it.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Got it. Do you happen to know the part number for the ignitor?

Sure, part number WB13K21, available below.


Customer: replied 3 years ago.

One last thing and I apologize for not asking in last question. Where is the access to the ignitor? I know it is at bottom of oven but I've replaced some oven ignitors in the past and have had to take quite a few parts off the appliance to gain access.

You will need to remove the oven floor to access that igniter, I am sorry I did not clarify.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

No problem at all. I appreciate you taking the time to explain the various issues I may have. I never assume anything even though 90% of my no heat issues are the ignitors. It's the other 10% that drive me crazy. By the way, what would be an average cost for a repair tech to replace this ignitor?

An average service call is about $100-150, depending on the area. That igniter retails for $72.50.
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