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Tyler Z.
Tyler Z., Appliance Doc
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 81872
Experience:  9+ years being an appliance technician with factory training.
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(Appliance Doc Only) Hey, Appliance Doc, I have an easy question

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(Appliance Doc Only) Hey, Appliance Doc, I have an easy question for you today. I'm studying something to help read schematics,but on one of the first ones I couldn't follow the path. This is not like the other day. This will probably take you about 15 seconds to figure out. But if I can see where I failed and grasp the initial concept, I think I can do the rest of them on my own.
Hello, and thank you for using this service. I'll be helping you with your problem today.

So I see the schematic but I'm not sure of exactly what part you are asking about on the schematic exactly?

Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Okay, I just wanted to make sure you saw it first. They say Timer switches 1,5,7,10, 11 and 16 are closed. Then they want you to trace the closed circuits with a wavy line. Okay, so I did get the drawing down through 10, 11, the Cold Valve (from 10) to the neutral side. But since they said 5, 7 and 16 are closed, I thought any time switches are closed current can flow through them. Since I've already got hot current going from the left side in sort of a big rectangle to the neutral side, why doesn't it also go from the neutral side back (leftward) through to "Suds" turn left and then go through both 7 and 16 back to the neutral side? So I said the Timer Motor, Agitate Solenoid and Hi side of the Drive Motor were activated. They say not. Why doesn't the current go through all these switches also if it has already made the circuit from hot side to neutral around the bigger rectangle (the mixing valve)?

I don't see a 16?

Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Switch 16 is right between is right between Switches 5 and 7.

OK I see it, thank you. So the reason is that the circuit is complete. Once you hit a "load" the power can't go through it if there is neutral on the other size. The load consumes the neutral and power and that's where it stops. A switch will stop the power or neutral, but it won't consume it. Below is a diagram where I traced everything that would have power and everything that would get neutral. The power and neutral either get stopped by a switch or a load except for the one place they meet up in the bottom right corner at the valves.


I'm sorry I wasn't quite done now that I look at it. Here is the corrected diagram. The purple line in the middle is where the path where electricity would flow. In this instance with the switches that are closed, the washer would be filling up with warm water (both hot and cold)

Customer: replied 3 years ago.

That's okay. That much I assume you missed because you were concentrating on the other stuff. I had gotten that part right. I just sent a big reply somewhere off in to cyberspace, but if you don't get it, I was just trying to sum up, saying what I think you're saying. I should know better but I always thought of current going basically in one direction, basically hot to neutral, whereas you're saying hot and neutral meet across the load. Because the hot current can't get to the left side (in the diagram) of the Agitate Motor, Timer Motor and Hi side of the Drive Motor through the open Switch 2, they aren't activated. Is that basically correct?

That is correct yes. Just so you know, if you had hot going into the neutral, any time you get hot going to neutral directly you get a direct short and the breaker will flip or short something out.

Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Wow, you taught me a lot in a few minutes. With that basic concept down I can now work my way through the other diagrams. Thanks so much. Your help is greatly appreciated as always.

No problem and hopefully you learn quickly
Tyler Z. and other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Hey, Appliance Doc, I rewired the two wires as you suggested above, E4 Aux on Clock Board to BA on the thermostat and L1 to Contact 1 on the Oven Lamp Switch. Now everything works fine except that the FAN comes on as soon as you turn on the Breaker with the Selector Knob in the OFF position. When you turn it 1/4 or 1/8 turn clockwise and the Oven starts to heat, the FAN goes off. To refresh your memory, go to[email protected]/ and look at the Current Wiring for Oven CWE5800ACB. You'll see the drawing with the colored lines. That is how it looks right now with the FAN problem.

OK so it sounds like those 2 wires we weren't sure about on BA and BR are just reversed since they were labeled 1 and 2 on the diagram. Just swap the BA and BR wires around and that should fix the fan issue.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Thanks, get back to you.

ok good luck
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Worked like a charm! You are a prince and a gentleman. Definitely could not have done it without you. Also learned a valuable lesson. I usually use the numbered tape for wires and their components but I got lazy and in a hurry and thought I could remember. I'll never do that again. I'll give you a better than usual tip in the next few days for this, even if I ask another question. You deserve it. Thanks. Glad that one is over.

I appreciate the praise and I'm glad you have it all up and running again.