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I have a Kenmore model 417-98702891 stackable washer/ electric

dryer....have no heat in dryer......have...
I have a Kenmore model 417-98702891 stackable washer/ electric dryer....have no heat in dryer......have replaced heater element and thermal fuse...started to get hot...thought it was fixed...went to use it....no heat again....I think the new heater element came with new high heat thermostat and another part on it too...don't know what else to do...possibly thermal limiter?...
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Answered in 1 minute by:
10/31/2013
Tyler Z.
Tyler Z., Appliance Doc
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 82,665
Experience: 9+ years being an appliance technician with factory training.
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Hello, and thank you for using this service. I'll be helping you with your problem today.

Do you have a multimeter to test continuity through the thermal fuse or high limit thermostat and such?

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Customer reply replied 4 years ago


yes


 

OK so you need to unplug the wires to all the thermal limiters and fuses and test continuity through all of them. One of them likely doesn't have continuity, can you tell me which one?

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Customer reply replied 4 years ago


no not at location of dryer right now.....how many are there and where are they located....2 are od heating element pan...one is behind them on back wall tucked behind drum(thermal fuse) believe one on pan to be high heat....other is hooked to wires on heating coil and to high heat?...don't know where thermal limiter is located.....when I put it together yesterday ...all was good...started dryer...blew hot....then about and hr later my daughter tried machine.....only blew cold air....

So the thermal fuse is not going to be the problem or the dryer wouldn't heat at all. The two on the outside of the heating pan would be the ones that you need to be concerned with. My guess would be that when you ran the dryer, it blew one of these thermostats which normally happens if you run the dryer and there is a venting issue or a bad cycling thermostat. The cycling thermostat is mounted down below the dryer drum on the blower wheel housing. You should have continuity through the 2 on the outside of the heating element and the cycling thermostat. If any of them are open, they need to be replaced.

Also, if one of the 2 on the outside of the heating pan is open, the vent through your house may need to be cleaned out or you need to make sure the vent behind the dryer isn't getting kinked. Other than that if you see nothing wrong with the vent, you'd want to replace the cycling thermostat along with the thermostat that you found open on the outside of the heating canister.

As a last note, if everything has continuity, make sure the 2 red wires are securely connected to the motor and pull the dryer forward to make sure you have 240 volts coming into the back of the dryer because the dryer will not heat without 240 volts, but it will run with just 120 volts. You'll also want to check and make sure you have between 5 and 50 ohms resistance through the heating element to make sure the element didn't just go bad for one reason.

Please remember to rate my service before you leave. If you have any other questions, please ask me – I’ll be happy to respond. You can continue asking follow-up questions until you have all the information you need even after rating my service. Thank you!

Tyler Z.
Tyler Z., Appliance Doc
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 82,665
Experience: 9+ years being an appliance technician with factory training.
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