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Tyler Z.
Tyler Z., Appliance Doc
Category: Appliance
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Experience:  9+ years being an appliance technician with factory training.
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I have an electrolux 36" icon induction cooktop. (E36IC75FSS3)

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I have an electrolux 36" icon induction cooktop. (E36IC75FSS3) that made a loud "pop" noise just before tripping the main house circuit breaker. Once I recovered the house power, the unit is dead. Any ideas on what needs to be replaced and costs? Looks like a common problem judging by internet reviews.

thanks carl
Hello, and thank you for using this service. I'll be helping you with your problem today.

So this is quite a major problem on these induction cooktops made by Electrolux. You would need to confirm that you're getting 240 volts to the cooktop from the power cord. Sometimes the junction box where the power cord connects to the house will short out. If you're getting 240 volts, then you have a bad power supply control board because there are no fuses that will cause the cooktop to act completely dead. The cost of the part is about $500!!! do it's not cheap, but the part number you'd need to order isNNN-NN-NNNNfor your model.

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Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Thanks for quick response. I'll check power supply at wall. Two questions:


Is it worth cycling through these control units and replacing every 3-6 years vs switching brands.


I am semi-handy (have replaced dishwasher pump impeller before) - is the board replacement something that a punter could do?

So if you have an induction cooktop, this is rather common for all brands to have a board go bad every 5 years or so. If you were to replace the unit for another induction cooktop, I wouldn't think you're going to get any more reliability. These units are quite expensive, but so is the repair. I would think that it's probably best to just replace the control board, but that's up to you to decide I suppose.

As for replacing the part, the entire cooktop will need to be un-installed and then all the screws around the border of the cooktop just below the glass top need to be unscrewed. The top glass panel will pull up and then you have access to the board in the back left corner. It's a very straight forward replacement and all plug and play so if you're handy you can replace it yourself.

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Customer: replied 3 years ago.


I don't if we are still good for more questions. I opened the unit, so the largest (main control board) had two burnt areas. Ordered a replacement and installed, powered up and no response. what's the next piece in the energy chain?


what part number did you replace exactly?

Customer: replied 3 years ago.

You had predicted that the larger of the two boards would be burnt and suggested a likely part number which matched the toasted part. I replaced this piece shown in page below from Sears parts...



OK and is the cooktop completely dead still with no signs of life?

Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Completely dead - I verified power and have de-installed it and am contemplating next move. The one item that I may have fouled up on was the 6 or 8 pin plug that connects to the glass-top and controllers to the main board. I didn't make note of which of the 3 options that it could be plugged into were correct. One option had what looked like minor abrasions in the conductive part (ie plug and unplug), so I started there as the others were clean. There is still one more option there, but before I dig into it again and undo all the screws I am going to research the likely correct jack.

OK so below is a link to your appliance and it shows you all the parts as well as which wires connections should plug where in case you think you wired something incorrectly. If the board you replaced was correct and everything is plugged in properly, part 20 would be the next part in line to replace.