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Tyler Z.
Tyler Z., Appliance Doc
Category: Appliance
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Experience:  9+ years being an appliance technician with factory training.
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I have a Dacor Pinnacle Raised Vent Model RV36W, installed

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I have a Dacor Pinnacle Raised Vent Model RV36W, installed in 1993 (20 years ago). The "Up-Down" button on the keypad functions poorly- I have to roll my finger around with pressure until "contact" is made. This can take 30-60 seconds - when successful! Also, I need to keep my finger there for it to finish the up / down cycle. (The other buttons work fine.) It seems like Part 82633 needs to be replaced, but with some reading, this seems like quite a job and that I may need to take off the back panel. Does it seem correct that the problem is "end of life" function for the "up/down" button after 20 years and that the "key printed circuit board" is in need of replacement? I am planning to buy a new replacement cook top and wonder about the wisdom of pairing an old vent with a new range. Thanks for your thoughts and comments. Bev

Hello, and thank you for using this service. I'll be helping you with your problem today.

So this is actually one of the more common problems with these Dacor downdrafts, but generally the touch pcb doesn't need to be replaced. Those little rubber buttons have a small black contact on that back that degrades over time from oil and steam. This causes it to make a bad contact with the touch board so you'll want to order and replace the rubber buttons to fix this issue. Below is a link to the part you'd need to order for your model.

CLICK HERE for buttons


Also, to remove the control panel just raise the panel and unplug the unit or turn the circuit breaker off. Remove the screws coming in from below the right and left end cap on the top of the downdraft cover. Remove the filters and such and the end caps will pry out. At this point the top panel will slide off to access the buttons and PCB.

Please remember to rate my service before you leave. If you have any other questions, please ask me – I’ll be happy to respond. You can continue asking follow-up questions until you have all the information you need even after rating my service. Thank you!

Customer: replied 3 years ago.

This makes sense and I saw in another site that grime can get in and cause failure. I do not readily see how the plastic strip of buttons comes out to be replaced. The vent is up, I have the end cap loose by about an 1/8 inch so the top separates from the rest of the unit by about 3/8 of and inch. I can see the wires going down that are connected to the touch PCB. The housing around the buttons does not seem to want to slide out so that the button panel can "fall" out and be replaced. Any tips on how to replace the button strip? Thanks.

Any thoughts about replacing a 20 year old downdraft vent when a stovetop oven range is replaced? Cosmetics is OK as white vent cover matches white tile- the new stove top will be stainless steel.

So it's definitely really difficult but I would highly recommend getting a helping had. You need to remove those end caps completely which you can work on separating and sliding out the ends of the top panel with a flat head screwdriver pry back and forth in the gap between the top panel and the end cap. Now once you have the end caps removed, you will need to slide that entire plastic button cover assembly out to the right of the top cover. This is where it gets difficult because you can't move the buttons very much since the wires are still attached, but you will need to find a way to pry that button cover or have someone hold onto it while you pull on the top cover to the left to try and release it.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Thanks. XXXXX removed the grill vent cover where the grease guards are, I found the phillips head screws, one on each side. I removed these and got the top "rack" off and the L brackets out from the housing. The darkish grey cover around the buttons may just be stuck with 20 years of "accummulation." I do see how the button assembly cannot be moved by much. Thanks for the tip of a second pair of hands to pull to the left. I got the grey panel with the buttons out without disturbing the wiring. I cleaned it all up and wiped off the contacts of the buttons and the electronics. I did not have the part so I reassembled it successfully. I threw the breaker back to its place and the other sockets are live. The vent is still in the up position. The lights did not come on- previously they were lite and before I threw the breaker, the vent actually came on. My "detail" level was "low" so I do not know how much more we can chat. Also, you are East coast time so you may be off line. If you want to throw an idea out as to why the lights did not come back on ( I am thinking because I wiped the contacts?) that would be great, otherwise, you successfully lead me through disassembly. I could not discern any difference in the quality of the underside of the buttons or in the contact points.

See I really couldn't say why nothing lights up at all now. My guess would be that one of the wires on the touchpad was disturbed more than you may have originally thought. The unit is quite old so the wires get very brittle and moving them around can cause them to crack and break. You may need to have the PCB touchpad replaced now and that is really difficult to replace and run the wires through the unit. So for that you would likely need a technician.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Thanks for getting back. New fun thing: I turned on a burner and the vent fan came on!!! But Oh-Oh- it won't turn off, or change speeds, or go up or down. I likely would not have started this unless I was prepared to mess up. If successful, I would have delayed a few months in replacing stove top and vent. I had to throw the circuit breaker to get it to go off. I have nothing to lose in taking it apart again and will look closely at the wires and maybe it is just a positional thing. Any other thoughts on why it won't turn off after it went "auto on" with the ignition of a burner??


If I rate you- " excellent" by the way, does that end our connection? Maybe you are not suppose to comment about the wisdom of keeping an old vent with a new stove top-- it is not a technical question, so I understand. Some old things go on and on forever, but other applicances do have life spans-- much shorter spans it seems now-a-days- this from someone born in the "50's!!

Hmm, interesting because the cooktop isn't actually part of the downdraft so I'm not sure why the downdraft would be affected by the coooktop turning on. Either way, rating me does not end our connection, you can still ask follow-up questions if needed.

Customer: replied 3 years ago.

In the past, the fan has increased speed in response to certain actions that I am not precisely remembering. Things that would do it were actions that seemed to increase volume to be removed. In the past, if the vent was elevated but in the "off" position, and burners off, when I turned on a burner, the vent would go "on." This seemed rather an elegant safety aspect. I presumed there was some sort of sensor but I agree, the vent fan and stove top are not intimately connected. Do you have any ideas where I might locate the plug for the vent so I do not have to have the whole circuit thrown? The cook top is in a kitchen island that was newly built with the remodel in '93. There is an electrical box with one line and plug to it but I see that it feeds to the cook top for, I presume, the electric spark ignition. I am thinking the vent electric line is hard wired in somewhere without a plug. Does that seem possible??

Most of the time the vent is hardwired, so it's unlikely to have a plug. But the power cord connects to the bottom right corner of the downdraft so you can try to locate the power cord coming from there, but you may need to turn the circuit breaker off.

Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Thanks. Will look there and as a last result, with circuit breaker interupted, would cutting the wires from near the button controls interupt the fan in the "off" position??? Thanks.

So cutting the wires wouldn't guarantee that the fan would stop unfortunately. There is another control board in the lower right corner behind a 5" x 7" sheet metal access panel. If the board is set to turn the fan on, it would just keep running.

But rather than cutting the wires, I would recommend removing the sheet metal access panel and unplugging the 13 pin wire connector from the control board and that will serve as the same purpose.

Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Cool. That makes sense. I opened the panel and see how it is wired directly to the electrical box. I see how the bunch of wires comes down from the buttons above and plugs in. So, if pulling that pin does not cut power, I can disconnect the hard wire and put wire nuts over the exposed wires. I first will reclean contacts with alcohol instead of Cinch and if no success after reassembly I will pull the wires. Thanks. Just to let you know, you are helping a 60 year old, retired dietitian with biological science degree but with an interest in engineering and technical things--that is the family pedigree!.

Awesome. Well I wish you the best and glad you understand the wiring to the control board to some extent.

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Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Team Work!!! I cleaned contacts with alcohol. Compressed air cleaned off. Reassembled. ALL FUNCTIONS ARE NOW WORKING AFTER EXTENSIVE CLEAN and second reassembly. Hmmm. I wonder if future folk that contact you might benefit from this experience. That is, try a cleaning with whatever agent but clean contacts and circuit board contacts and lines with alcohol and then verify with reassembly that push buttons remain over contacts. Thanks for leading me through this!! Excellent rating coming your way!! All this on a diet of wine, cheese, apple slices and crackers!! Bev