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Appliance Guru
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Issue with my GE Monogram Freezer / Fridge Model # XXXXX

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Issue with my GE Monogram Freezer / Fridge Model # XXXXX My wife purchased a lot of food the other day and stuffed the freezer. Woke up this morning with a high temp (10 degrees higher than normal) in the freezer and removed some items thinking this could be to air circulation. Returned home during the evening and noticed temperature rose higher in freezer and refrigerator temp high as well. Current temperatures are 37 Freezer and 54 Fridge - at this time 80% of food has been removed since it is destroyed.

I have tried the following:

turning off and back on from fuse box a couple of times (let sit 1 minute prior to turning back on)
the digital temperature controls located inside the fridge will not set the temperature - I can adjust both the freezer and fridge temperatures, but after a few seconds they display the actual temperatures of the freezer and fridge

What I have noticed:

The condenser fan runs
The compressor does not appear to run - touch not hot/warm - no humming/vibration
The lights work fine
If the doors remain open I do hear a fan kick on - both freezer and fridge
Chill drawer in fridge - controls do work and fan behind drawer does turn on

Any suggestions on what this might be or next methods in troubleshooting? I would really hate an expensive visit from a technician to diagnose and repair.

I greatly appreciate it.

Thanks for your question. Please remember to rate my assistance when we're done. Please talk with me first before rating negatively.

What oftens happens on this unit is the relay for the compressor on the main control board goes out. It oftens burns out on the backside of the board leaving a burned solder joint where the compressor relay is. You may be able to resolder the bad joint, but almost always you need to replace the main board. The part number is XXXXX and you can get it at
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

I pulled the board and no signs of burning. I have previous experience replacing boards on tankless water heaters and work IT so boards are no problem to work on. Guessing the board could still be bad even though no signs of burning. I also have a thermo-sensor without a cover identified in the freezer, but don't know if this would impact the entire freezer and fridge from cooling. Any other recommendations or worth shelling out the $165 on the board + shipping to see if this fixes the issue? I am up to troubleshooting everything and anything that could be the culprit to resolve vice buying piece by piece over time to resolve.


Thanks again,


See if the compressor is cold to the touch. Let me know if it is warm at all.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

NOTE: Updated make and serial number information based on verification: Model #ZIS8480DRI Serial #LL030524

compressor is cold to the touch - not warm at all and temp in freezer and fridge are both a 66 degrees. I completed the following today for additional troubleshooting and information to provide:


Coils had never been cleaned to my knowledge - went ahead and cleaned with soft brush and shopvac'd. dust to the best of my capability. Didn't appear to be too bad. After cleaning still the same issue.

I have NOT tested for power to the compressor - not sure how to do this since area is pretty compact and no obvious wires running from the compressor, but from the plastic cased unit on side of compressor. I can test if informed which wires to test to ensure power or other recommended testing.

I have tested the thermistor’s and all appear to be fine.

Thanks for the continued support and additional information would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks again,


Get to the board. You should see an aqua large 3 wire plug going to it. Unplug the unit and unplug that plug on the board. You should see labels on the board where that plug goes...saying Line, Comp, Def/......with the plug removed get a paperclip and unbend it so it can be a jumper wire. Put it in the LINE and COMP wires on the plug....then plug the unit back in. If the compressor fires up....replace the board for sure.... Make sure the paperclip can not touch gorund while you have the plug off and jumpered.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Alright, prior to moving forward I need to provide some additional information to ensure I am moving forward properly. The model number is XXXXX - mistyped the first 8 vice B earlier. On the Main Board I see a large Aqua plug (box shaped) on the lefthand side of the board with two wires. After removing Line, Comp, Def is identified.


Compressor# XXXXX and Main Board# XXXXX


Move forward with your recommendation? Just want to ensure since I did not provide all of the accurate information previously.




Yes with that plug removed and the unit unplugged jumper the Line and Comp sires in the plug from the board and then plug it back in...The compressor should fire right up./ If so I would replace that main board. Yes that should be the correct part number for the board as well.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Alright, tried a few times and unfortunately did not work. I do not know if it makes a difference, but there are only two wires in the plug that connect to the def and line on the main board. No wire identified in the comp part of the plug and all plastic inside that part of the plug. I further tried jumping the def and line on the plug - also, no success to anything turning on.


In addition, I lost all power to the fridge when I performed both processes. When I removed the jumper wire and plugged connection back into the main board I was back where I started as previously described.


Any further recommendations would be greatly appreciated.





I'm sorry I just noticed that your model is an inverter board series. Plug everything back in and get a volt meter. Stick the volt meter into the back end of the outside pins on the inverter board quick connect plug. See if you have 120 volts to the inverter. If you do you need a new inverter board. Here is the part.

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