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Hello, my name isXXXXX Profile refrigerator (Model PTC22S8MARBS)

has ice build up in...
Hello, my name isXXXXX Profile refrigerator (Model PTC22S8MARBS) has ice build up in the freezer and is no longer cold enough to keep contents frozen. The refrigerator has also lost the ability to keep items cold. I have vacuumed the dust from the coils underneath the refrigerator, and scraped the ice from the freezer (back center and back floor of freezer) but it has not made a difference. Please help. Thanks.
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Answered in 4 minutes by:
9/11/2013
Tyler Z.
Tyler Z., Appliance Doc
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 82,773
Experience: 9+ years being an appliance technician with factory training.
Verified
Hello, and thank you for using this service. I'll be helping you with your problem today.

This sounds like a common issue and it means that your unit is not longer defrosting in the freezer so the refrigerator is not able to steal air to cool down. You'll need to either unplug the unit for 24 hours or remove everything of the freezer and remove the floor inside the freezer (requires you to remove both the refrigerator and freezer door to take out the floor and expose the evaporator coils where the frost is). Once all the frost is thawed out, the unit will start working again. To make sure the problem doesn't come back, you'll want to replace the defrost heater. GE's defrost heaters fail often because they are nothing more than a long glass light bulb. Order and replace the defrost heater at the bottom of all the frost and you should be good to go. Below is a link to the defrost heater you'll want to order and replace. It's located under all the frost almost directly in the middle.

CLICK HERE

Now I did want to point out that there are a few other possibilities like the defrost control board or the defrost sensor, but these rarely fail on this model and there is no way to test the heater for certain to know if it's good or not. The reason is because that the heater is glass and can get water inside of it when it fails so it will show good continuity even when it's bad sometimes. That's why the best course of action is to replace the heater since it's by far the most common problem. Also, if you happen to remove the back panel and the coils aren't packed with frost, then that would mean the fan above the coils is likely not running which will generate the same symptoms. You'll need to order and replace the evaporator fan motor if this is the case or thaw the ice out that is blocking the fan from running.

Please remember to rate my service before you leave. If you have any other questions, please ask me – I’ll be happy to respond. You can continue asking follow-up questions until you have all the information you need even after rating my service. Thank you!

Tyler Z.
Tyler Z., Appliance Doc
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 82,773
Experience: 9+ years being an appliance technician with factory training.
Verified
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Tyler,


 


I'm not sure why you didn't get my previous reply, but I am extremely pleased with the information you provided me. I purchased the replacement heater and replaced it this past weekend. I used a blow dryer to melt the ice that had built up around the coils to expose the defrost heater. After the water drained, swapping out the unit was fairly straight forward. The refrigerator and furnace have been working fine ever since.


 


Thank you again for your assistance.


 


Doug Bush

Awesome. Thank you for the update.
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Tyler,


 


After two weeks of running fine, my refrigerator is exhibiting the same problem as before: ice build up in freezer on back wall, inability for refrigerator to stay cold, etc. Could this be the defrost heater tube again or should I be looking at something else?


 


Thanks,


 


Doug

So it's really unlikely that you'd have another bad thermostat. But you will need ot take the refrigerator apart again. There is a defrost thermostat below the silver coils. It's a 1" round device with 2 wires going to it. Check continuity through this part while it's covered in frost. If it doesn't have continuity, then it would need to be replaced. Other than that, test the heater for continuity and it should have between 5 and 50 ohms resistance. If not, replace the heater. Now if both parts happened to check good, the defrost timer is just not advancing the refrigerator into defrost correct and the defrost timer would need to be replaced.

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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Tyler,


 


OK. I took freezer apart again and exposed the coils. After the unit defrosted all day, I was able to test the defrost heater that I installed 2 weeks ago. It has between 30-40 ohms resistance, so I don't think that is the problem. I found the round defrost thermostat with two wires sticking out of it. I don't have clips to connect to the wires, so I just held the probes on either side of the 1" round device. Am I checking this correctly? It gives me 0.00 on my multimeter.


 


Thanks,


 


Doug

So you can only test the thermostat while it's covered in the frost or if you stick it inside the freezer for about an hour so that it's definitely below 32 degrees---otherwise it will always be open. You would need to test between the 2 wires going to the thermostat to see if you have between 0.1 and 1 ohm. If not, then you need a new thermostat. But since you've already replaced the thermostat it's likely not bad which leaves only the defrost timer which you can't test. That is located inside the refrigerator inside the control panel. Below is a link to the defrost timer you'd need to order for your model.

CLICK HERE for defrost timer

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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

I only replaced the defrost heater so far. I haven't replaced the thermostat yet. Your explanation does make sense. The thermostat is open because I defrosted the freezer and it is above 32 degrees. I would need to plug in the fridge to get the freezer below freezing and then test thermostat again. If it is still open, then I would need to replace it, correct? If it has resistance, then by process of elimination, it would have to be the defrost timer.


 


I will let you know about the thermostat after it freezes. Thanks Tyler.


 


Doug

Ah ok, sorry about the confusion but you are correct. Everything you said is the correct process.
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Tyler Z.
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