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Tyler Z.
Tyler Z., Appliance Doc
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 81993
Experience:  9+ years being an appliance technician with factory training.
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We have a Frigidaire GLTF2940FS1 washer that has stopped working.

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We have a Frigidaire GLTF2940FS1 washer that has stopped working. We checked at the end of the cycle and the clothes were very wet. We put the selector on "Spin/Drain" and pressed the start button. We hear clicks but nothing happens. The indicator lights are on and the display shows the estimated number of minutes as usual ("13" for "Spin/Drain") so I know it's getting power. The fabric softener dispenser is closed. The door locks during the time it thinks it's running, and it unlocks if we cancel it.
Hello, and thank you for using this service. I'll be helping you with your problem today.

So there are two possibilities. You could have a clogged/bad drain pump, or you could have a door lock assembly that has failed. If you let the washer run and you have a draining issue, the washer will start beeping and give you an error code like E20. If you have a bad door latch assembly, you can set the washer to drain/spin, but it will just sit there may turn on the drain pump, but the tub will never turn and the washer will just shut off like the cycle is done after some time.

Now I understand that the door is locking, but that doesn't mean the door lock is good. There is a PTC sensor build into the lock assembly and it prevent the tub from moving or doing anything if this sensor gives a bad reading to the control board.

Either way, clean out the blockage if you have a drain issue or replace the door lock assembly if the PTC sensor has gone bad to fix this issue.

Please remember to rate my service before you leave. If you have any other questions, please ask me – I’ll be happy to respond. You can continue asking follow-up questions until you have all the information you need even after rating my service. Thank you!

Tyler Z. and 3 other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

I'd like to revisit this issue... I ordered the door latch assembly and replaced it this morning. No change in the symptoms. More info: I set it on normal wash and press start. It shows me "56" minutes on the display, makes a quiet buzz for about a half second, then blinks "PAU" in the display alternating with "56". If I press start again, it does the same thing -- short buzz then alternates "PAU" and "56".


When I repeated the original process, which was setting it on spin/drain and pressing start, I get the same symptoms as before. It shows "13" and clicks a couple times. If I let it sit it will eventually count down to "12" and click some more. No water, no spinning, no activity at all.


A note on the door latch: When I ordered the latch, they told me I would need a wiring harness and strike plate. I assumed that was because the latch was a compatible replacement but not the original, and that the connectors on the latch would be different than the connectors on my existing wiring harness. When I removed the latch mechanism, however, I found the existing connectors matched my new latch just fine so I did not replace the wiring harness (nor the strike plate, which also matched mine exactly). It seems to me that it wouldn't be likely that a wire would fail and more likely that the latch would fail.


I hesitate to open the wiring harness and try it just to see if it works because it is the most expensive part of the whole job ($130) and I can return it if I don't open it.


Any further suggestions before we go buy a new washer?

So your issue definitely still has to do with the latch assembly. If you have the style where you need the new wiring harness, then you'd definitely need to install it, but at this point you either got a faulty door latch, the wiring harness needs to be installed, or the display control board is bad and isn't detecting that the door is locking and the display board would need to be replaced.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

1. Faulty latch: I've replaced the latch and have the same symptoms. It seems by all rules of cause and effect and logic, that the latch assembly cannot be the problem, unless I coincidentally got a bad latch assembly from the store. That doesn't seem likely.


2. Wiring harness needs to be installed: I assume the way you know if you need the wiring harness is if the replacement latch does not have the right connectors for the existing harness. My replacement latch matches my existing wiring harness. So I don't absolutely need the new harness. The other possibility is that there is a wire in the harness that is broken or a connection that is bad. I removed and re-seated all the connectors on the display board with no change in symptoms. It seems highly unlikely that non-moving parts like wires would suddenly go bad and need to be replaced, so I hesitate to open the $130 bundle of wires when it's unlikely that's the cause.


3. Display board isn't detecting that the door is locked. The "door locked" light comes on. The machine goes through the paces of firing solenoids as if everything is working. Things click and the timer counts down (at least to a point -- I suspect it eventually figures out the tub isn't filling). I don't see any sign that the display board doesn't know the door is closed. In fact, it seems to behave as if the door is closed, except nothing it tells the rest of the machine to do is actually happening.


So I'm at the point where I'm weighing the option of having someone come in and look at it or replace it. I'm concerned, though, that any service person would just start grasping at straws at my expense and install the wiring harness, then replace the display board, then the water valves, then the drain pump until he discovered the real problem.


I'm not convinced we're on the right track.

You may not be convinced we're on the right track, but call a technician out and you'll see what he replaces if you don't believe me. Tell him everything you've done and I guarantee he will start with either the latch or the display board or the wiring harness. I too don't believe you need a wiring harness, but the display board and latch are the ONLY things that will cause this issue.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

I found an online copy of a diagnostic procedure that we should've done right out of the starting gate. You press a couple buttons on the front panel and spin the knob and different things happened. I got E56 every time I asked it to agitate or spin. I did the diagnostic checks on the motor, which said the motor is OK but the speed control board needs to be replaced.



So while that may pull up an error code, unless you actually see the error code coming up on it's own, you have no idea how old that error is. The error code should appear any time that the washer shuts down if it's detecting an error. The error will not go away until you clear it or shut the power off to the washer. So while that very well might fix your problem by replacing the speed control board, there is really no way of knowing if that error relates to the problem you're having right now.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

So what you're saying is that the error code might be something from months or years ago that isn't related to our problem, and the fact that the machine displays the error code at the same time it does not spin the drum is a coincidence??


Going to go find the refund button.

So what I am saying is that the error code could be from months or years ago yes. You are saying now that the error code appears at the same time it does not spin? Because before I specifically said an error code like E20 or something would appear if there was a specific error and you never said anything about an error appearing.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

The error code appears during the diagnostic procedure when the machine should be commanding the tub to do something. During those diagnostics, the machine turned on the water, activated the drain pump, locked/unlocked the door, etc. as expected but when it tried to spin the tub, I got E56.

it's interesting that it shows up when running diagnostics and not during the normal cycle like it should, but either way, if that is the case it does sound like the motor control board needs to be replaced.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.
Just to follow up. This turned out to be the motor control board, as I suspected. We replaced that and it's working great. I was able to get a refund for the wiring harness, which was my part supplier's fault for telling me I needed it. But I don't think it was ever necessary to replace the door latch. There were no symptoms in retrospect that indicated the latch (or the display board) was at fault.

Thanks for the refund. Hopefully the additional information will come in handy for you going forward,

ok have a nice day.