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i have a Samsung American type SR-S2229C, with a problem in

the freezer side. the defrost...
i have a Samsung American type SR-S2229C, with a problem in the freezer side. the defrost cycle is defective.I need to unplug the unit to part defrost it , and then replug it and it works OK for a week or so.
The drainage of the melted ice is clear and OK.
No prob,em with the fridge side.
Hoping that you can assist me, as I've had many so called Samsung service personnel looking at it, taking my money and not returning.
regards XXXXX
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Answered in 2 hours by:
9/5/2013
Jon
Jon, Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 3,645
Experience: Appliance Service Technician with 10+ years experience.
Verified

Jon : Hello Tom
Jon : my name is XXXXX XXXXX I am an authorized Samsung service technician and I can try to help you today.
Jon : First off, I amsorry that you have had such problems with this machine andthe other techs that had come to your home.
Jon : the defrost issue with the freezer is a common one. And I can walk you through the diagnostic steps you will need to take to determine what parts are failing on the deforst circuit. I you have a meter we can really find the exact problem. Theni can get youths part info and have you order and install it. This will save you time and money.
Customer: ok I have a meter
Jon : Now inThe freezer, was just the drain line clogged which lead to the water spilling into the freezer cabinet and icing over? Or was it so bad that there was a sheet of ice on the back evaporator cover int he freezer? Then affecting the temps causing themto get warmer?
Jon : ok. Good.
Jon : how bad was the ice build up inThe freezer?
Customer: on this occasion not very bad, used a hair dryer to thaw out
Jon : Ok good. Did you remov e the evap cover to expose the evap coils before defrosting? Or did you just stick the hair dryier in the freezer and fan back and forth with the cover still on?
Customer: took off the panel
Jon : ok. Good again.
Customer: where to now
Jon : if the cover is still off you can check the heater and thermistor for continuity. Do you know how to do that?
Jon : if not, I will explain.
Customer: walk me thru it
Jon : you got it.
Customer: what have I got?
Jon : you will see onthe top part of the coils a thermostat that may either look like a round black disc about a quarter size with two wires going it or a thin plastic pencil thermistor in the same area attached to the top coils. These thermostats or thermistor , just depends on the model ou have, will regulate how hot the deforst cycle gets and how cold the evap gets.
Jon : if those tstats fail, it will not regulate the temps andthe defrost cycle. Leaving too much frost to build up onthe evaporator. This causing the issues you have had.
Customer: ok so how do I test
Jon : so what you want to do is first find the type of thermostat you have onthe evaporator and tell me. The isolate the wires back to the freezer cabinet to the left. Then unclip and disconnect them from the plug and set your meter to continuity
Jon : set it to a toned continuity test if you can. Then stick rack lead into each side of the end of the wire that was connected.
Jon : If you hear a tone then the tstat has continuity and is good. I not, then it is bad and needs to be checked.
Customer: wait a moment taking off panel-it's loose-and cling wiring
Customer: panel now off, which are the wires reds black and yellows
Jon : now if you have the thin white pencil shape thermistor you can't check with toned continuity. You will have to check with ohms. And at freezing temp of about 32 degrees it should ohm out at approximately 16 k ohms.l that's 16,000
Jon : yellow is usually for the thermostor. Wich is what you want now. But please just back track the wires to the thermistor to be sure,
Jon : here is exactly what you should do. Follow this.
Jon : How To Test The ThermistorYou can test your thermistor(s) using an ohm meter or multi-meter. The best way to do this is to remove the thermistor from the refrigerator so you can control the temperature of the sensor. You can let the sensor warm up to room temperature or grab a glass of ice water to test the thermistor. With the sensor warmed up to room temperature the sensor should read approximately 6.2K Ohms at 68°F. With the thermistor submerged is a glass full of ice water, the sensor should be very close to 32°F which should read approximately 16.3K Ohms. If the values that you are getting are far off from these readings, then the sensor is bad and should be replaced. If the reading you are getting is not consistent; where sometimes the ohm reading is correct and other times it isn't, even though the temperature hasn't changed, then the thermistor should be replaced.
Jon : if you can remove the thermistor from the freezer then it will be easier and more accurate to check it. But if you can't just be pretty sure of the room temp in the freezer or else you will not know what the resistance is of the thermistor.
Jon : Sorry for the lengthy response. Just wanted to be clear on what to do here. If you have any questions just stop me.
Jon : if the thermostor is off by more then a few hundred ohms then it needs to be replaced. But if it is under that it should be good.
Customer: the yellow wires go down behind the evap is this correct. do you know this model of Samsung type SRS2229C?
Customer: can I send u a photo?
Jon : next check the heater by unplugging the heater wires from connections and check the heater wires with toned continuity. If you get the tone it s good if not, needs to be replaced.
Jon : yes. That is correct. Do you see the thermostor? It looks like a small thin white pencil. About 3 inches long. And will be in a white plastic cover that attaches to the coils. D you see this?
Jon : sure you can send a photo hear. Just use the attachment clip at the top of the chat window to download the picture here.
Jon : and yes, I have worked on this model many time before.
Customer: this thermistor is difficult to get at , can I undo the connections and do a continuity test?
Jon : You will have to undo the connections that go back into the back of the freezer cabinet,the other end of the yellow wires that go to the connections. Remove them and test there. But ha to be ohm test. Not continuity. That is the easier test.
Jon : if the freezer is cool shouldbe around 32 degrees and the thermostor should read about 16 k ohms
Jon : if it doesn't then it is bad and needs to be replaced.
Jon : then undo the connections for the wires to the heater and do a continuity test on that. If bad and no continuity then it needs to be replaced.
Jon : i will tell you this, with my experience withworking on this model, over ten years experience doing this exact model ten times a week, 90% of the time the thermistor is bad and needs to be replaced. The heater usually never goes bad.
Jon : if both the heater and thermostat or thermistor are good thenreplace the mainboard
Jon : Are you still with me? Do you understand what you need to do?
Customer: can I come back to u later, difficult to release elec clips
Jon : Hre is a good video showing you how to replace and check it on a similar style ref. it is not the same exact model as yours but all thermistors are the same and this video should show you how to do it.
Jon : just click the link below to openand view the video.
Jon : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JCblomgOoco
Jon : copy and paste the link above to openand view the video.
Jon : yes. Sure. You can come back to me here at any time after you positively rate my performance now below this chat with ok slice or better rating. Thenyou cankeep coming back to me here for as long as you like and I will help you more for no additional charge.
Jon : just let me know how you do. And be patient with those clips. Sometimes it is hard to get the out. Especially if they are rally cold. Sometimes it is easier just to stick the meter leads into the back of the wires there at the clip. Just make sure you stick it infar enough to touch the metal of the yellow wired leads.
Customer: got the terminals off now doing some checking
Jon : ok. I' ll behere. Just let me know what the ohms are to the thermistor.
Jon
Jon, Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 3,645
Experience: Appliance Service Technician with 10+ years experience.
Verified
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Thank you for the positive rating. It is greatly appreciated.

Please just get back to me here when you have checked the thermostor and heater to tell me what you have found. And if you need more help you can always come back to me here at any time and I will help you more for no additional charge.

Again, if you need pas just go to your nearest parts supplier and get the thermostor. They will ask of rather full model number and get what you need. If you need help ordering the parts comeback to me here and I will try to help but with you being in Spain, I will have limited access to the parts info for your model machine. But I will try my best to get you parts info. You can always order the part on line and have it sent to you. And it may even be cheaper that way too.

Just get back to me here if you need more help.

Thanks again.
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago
heater reading 230 ohms,
thermistor reading zero, other two terminals reading 2.13 on 20kohms scale, room temp approx 25C
Ok. Heater is good. Normal ohm reading is between 215-240. But thermistor being at zero is no good. If you are sure you did it right and got a good reading then it is bad.

You need to replace the thermistor. Which again is the most common cause for this problem. Don't know why the previous techs didn't pick this up. Maybe they didn't know the resistance values and thought it was good. But it is definitely bad.

Please get back to me here if you need anything else and I will help you more for no additional charge.

Thanks again.
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago
sorry Jon made a bad connection on the thermistor see second correct reading of 5.4 k ohms
If only 5.4k ohms still way off. At the temp you said earlier it should be more around 26k ohms. Change the thermistor. It is bad. That is what accurately senses what the temp is in the evaporator area. If it fails it will not no what the correct temp is in the freezer. And ultimately give you the problem you are having.

Simple fix. Just replace the thermistor.
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago
thanks a lot , but just to check, I saw I saw in a utube video a test on a good thermistor witch read 6.5 kohms at 17C, which does not seem to far away from my reading???
I am sorry. Just seeing that you measured temp with Celsius not Fahrenheit. If you a re reading 5.4k ohms it is still off by almost 1.k ohms. That is a lot.

That would certainly cause the thermistor to pick up the wrong temp in the evap. Again, I would change the thermistor.

If you have any other questions please get back to me here and I will help you more.
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago
Hi Jon, Freezer working for the last12 hrs, can u explain to me, that if the thermistor is faulty that the unit operates for a long period(1 week) and can still be faulty? I will see if I can get a thermistor locally ,if not I possibly will come back to u to buy one for me.
One of the service guys exchanged the complete absolutely new heat exchanger incl the thermistor , and the freezer didn't work correctly, is the master control board faulty?
This happens all the time.

The unit will run fine for about a week then the evap will freeze up again and cause the defrost problem. If the thermistor is not regulating the temp on th evap properly. So the the evap gets so full of ice it chokes off the cold air that would pass to the ref cabinet.
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago
I'll get a thermistor and fit it if ok will then give u a bonus.
Ta a lot
tom
Tom,

Thank would be greatly appreciated. Please let me know if you need anything else and I will help you more for no additional charge.

Thank you again.
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Jon
Jon
Jon, Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 3,645
3,645 Satisfied Customers
Experience: Appliance Service Technician with 10+ years experience.

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