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My situation is the same as listed on this page. The child

lock will not turn off...
My situation is the same as listed on this page. The child lock will not turn off despite unplugging the fridge for 30 mins to try to reset it.

And, on top of this, the fridge is no longer cooling at all. The freezer seems fine, but the fridge is not.

Any suggestions?
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Answered in 8 minutes by:
9/1/2013
Barry G.
Barry G., Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 6,823
Experience: 27 years in home appliance repair. EPA refrigerant transition and recovery certification type I & II.
Verified
Hello Adam my name is XXXXX XXXXX you for choosing our service.

Press and hold the lower 2 buttons which appear to be, at least according to the image I see are the freezer temp and refrigerator temp buttons for 3 seconds. Are these the ones that you are trying?

Thanks,
Barry
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Hi Barry,


 


Here's the other post I was referring to http://www.justanswer.com/appliance/66u0h-samsung-refrigerator-model-rb1855sl-bottom.html


 


I just pressed and held the bottom two buttons for 3s. Nothing happens. When I hold and press the top 2 for 3s (which is how we used to turn on/off the child lock), it displays what you see in the attached image, beeps, then returns to the default display.


 




 


 

Adam that is an error code. Let me see if I have the list for your model. Thanks for the images, that helped narrow it a lot.

Barry
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Open the fresh food section. Is the fan operating there at the top rear? Can you hear it?

Alslo look at the lower rear wall in the fresh food section. Is frost visible on that wall?

Barry

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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

The fan does seem to be on. When I open up the fridge, I hear normal fridge mechanical noise.


 


On the lower rear wall, frost is not visible.

I am presently uploading a sheet so you will have a guide to go by Adam. Just a few more minutes.

Barry
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All of those errors are pointing to the fresh food section. The fan not being read as operating. The temperature sensor not being read correctly. A defrost sensor error in the fresh food section. All of those are related to 2 things. The connector behind that rear inside wall of the fresh food section has come loose where these things connect. Or the main control board is bad.

Below is a link, scroll down when you get to the site. There are 2 pages, use the arrows at the top of the image to switch pages.

CLICK HERE FOR THE FILE


That will help you get the rear wall off. Have the refrigerator unplugged and check all of the wire connections behind that wall. Make sure all are clean and tight. Plug in the refrigerator. If you still have that error and you are sure the fan is operating replace the main control board.

The main control board is at the rear of the refrigerator in the compressor area. It is enclosed in a box behind the cover to access that area.

If you have any questions at all Adam please ask. If not please leave a rating for me.

Thanks
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Thanks. I'll give that a try probably tomorrow morning. If I do end up needing a new control board, any tips on where/how to acquire one?

You can try any appliance parts stores, a Sears that does appliance repair. And in just a minute I will get you an online store I use that has a year warranty on their parts. Give me just about a minute.

Thanks,
Barry
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Adam the store I recommend if you shop online is linked below.

www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Main-Control-Board/DA4100128D/1515019?RCAID=1000064

Thank you for the opportunity, you and your family have a nice rest of the Labor Day weekend.

Barry
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Hi Barry. I got the cover off and there's lots of ice in behind (see photo attached). Might that be the problem?


 


Any suggestions at this point? Just let it defrost, then put it back together?


 


Also, my fridge doesn't really look like the one in the instructions, but I think I've been able to interpret properly anyway.


 


I understand Adam, I knew it was not an exact match but it was the closest available information I could find. What I would do is exactly what you think. Let it defrost. Be sure to check all of those connections there. Plug it in with the cover up to direct the air and see what it does. See if the temperature drops and the error goes away. It may do that, certainly worth a try.

Thanks,
Barry

P.S. I am sorry for the delay, I was out but have returned for the rest of the day.
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Ok. It's defrosted, and I've plugged everything back in. And, the fan is NOT going. Perhaps that has been the issue all along? Any suggestions?


 


 

I would check the fan to be sure it is free, check the connections to be sure all are clean and tight and if after those coils are cold the fan is still not operating replace that board as originally suggested. See that heater at the bottom of the coils. That is supposed to melt the ice during the defrost cycle, irregardless if the fan runs or not that ice should not be there. That heater should be coming on to defrost those coils and that is not happening.

Barry
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Ok. I'm going to plug it in and see if the coils cool.


 


If they cool, but the fan is still not running or the heater not working, you still suggest I replace the board?


 


Thanks for your patience Barry.

Yes there is not another part that would cause both to stop functioning I am aware of other than a loose or dirty wire connection there at the coils.

You are very welcome Adam. Do you happen to have a volt meter or a test light? If you do let me know and we can check for voltage. But yes go ahead and give it try and see what it does.

Thanks,
Barry
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Ok. I've turned it back on so will wait to see about the cooling. Yes, I have a volt metre. What should I test?

GIve it around and hour to see if the fan comes on.
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Sounds good. How do I verify if the heater is working or not?

The heater is not working. You can disconnect the heater and ohm the heater from end to end at the wire connections. A reading= good heater. No reading=bad heater.

Thanks,
Barry

 

EDIT: Hang on that may not be right. I am not seeing the heater.

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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Hi again. It has been on for a little over and hour, and the fan IS now running. But, it looks like a bit of ice is already starting to form on the coils... I'll wait to hear back from you on what and how I'm to test the heater (It's not quite clear to me what part is the heater).


 


 

I am not seeing it either Adam. Look behind those coils. Is there an aluminum part behind those coils that has 2 wires coming from it? Almost like an aluminum pad.

Thanks,
Barry
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

See attached photos. There seems to be some tinfoil like aluminum behind the coils, but I can't really tell where wires connect to it.


 


The coils are icing up pretty quick.


The coils look good. They should frost like that with no cover in place. Adam was there a time that the door was left open for a while?

 

Put the cover back up and let it run a couple of hours. I have to head out again but I will try and check with the phone as I can. What do the errors look like after that amount of time?

Thanks,
Barry

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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Ok. I'm going to secure the cover back on now and give it some time.


 


Ya... the door was left open for about 5 mins while I was taking a look for the heater, but I think that's it.

I was wondering if it was maybe left open by accident before that. I have to head out, I will be back in a couple of hours and will give you a shout. Let me know about the errors after the fresh food side gets cold.

Thanks,
Barry
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Ok. The fridge part feels cool now, but the child lock is still stuck and pressing and holding the top two buttons results in the same error code.

Adam that is good news. I would replace the main control board. I would use the link below because they will accept returns on electrical parts minus the shipping. There is no test for what is happening but there are too many errors showing for it to be anything else.

www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Main-Control-Board/DA4100128D/1515019?RCAID=1000064

That is what I recommend doing.
Thanks,
Barry

Barry G.
Barry G., Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 6,823
Experience: 27 years in home appliance repair. EPA refrigerant transition and recovery certification type I & II.
Verified
Barry G. and 87 other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

One last question I hope Barry. Can you point me to instructions on how to replace the control board?


 


Thx

Adam if there are any special instructions such as programming those will come with the part. Make sure the refrigerator is unplugged before you start.

 

The board location is in the compressor area, usually to the right in a plastic or metal box. Be sure the refrigerator is unplugged before changing the board. If you swap the connectors from the old board to the new board one at a time that will keep you from getting same sized connections in the wrong place, if there are any. Most times not but it is best to be safe.

 

Thanks,

Barry

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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Hi Barry. Do I get at it from the back exterior of the fridge, or through the inside of the fridge?

Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Hi Barry. Me again. Just back at this now that I'm back at the cabin. And, I've replaced the computer, and the control panel is now working (so that's good!) in that I can change the temperature on the control panel.


 


But, the fridge is still not cooling. I've set the temperature to 40, but it's hovering around 48 and not getting any cooler.


 


Freezer is still just fine. What would you suggest now?


 


Adam

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Barry G.
Barry G.
Barry G., Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 6,823
6,823 Satisfied Customers
Experience: 27 years in home appliance repair. EPA refrigerant transition and recovery certification type I & II.

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