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Tyler Z.
Tyler Z., Appliance Doc
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Experience:  9+ years being an appliance technician with factory training.
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Purchased a 30" Ikea Nutid Wall Oven, out of warranty ( it

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Purchased a 30" Ikea Nutid Wall Oven, out of warranty ( it was new with wrap etc and purchased from a contractor that didn't use it...warranty is void as I purchased in Canada and brought into the US). I and am experiencing some of the problems described elsewhere on this and other forums.

-The Oven functioned properly for months.
-It has not been through a self-clean cycle.
-Problem began with intermitent stoppages...when attempting to turn up heat, it would look like it was functioning and then suddenly turn off. I could set the oven back to 'off' and the clock and light woudl seem to function. When it was shutting off, it sounded like a fuse/switch would flip.
-Later, even without trying to turn the oven 'on', the switch sound would happen and the clock would go off...restarting a moment later.

I've read this to be either a thermal fuse issue, a control board issue or simply due to one of three elements being bad...after finding out which element was problem, replace it and it woudl be fine.

Please advise.
Hello, and thank you for using this service. I'll be helping you with your problem today.

So unfortunately the only think that can cause this problem is the control board. The thermal fuse can cut the display out, but the display will never return when the fuse goes bad. Since the control panel is cutting in and out, you need a new control board. The clicking you hear is actually a power relay failing to make proper contact and heat which is why you heear a fuse/switch like sound flipping. Just for reference, a bad heating element wouldn't ever cause this problem. It has no way of monitoring if the heating element is working or not so if the element was bad, the temperature would just not heat correctly but you'd see no effect on the display or clock. Now your model isn't pulling up exactly likely because it's a Canadian model, so you'd need to have a Canadian parts store look up the part number for the control board you need. The part will usually be around $200 or so.

Please remember to rate my service before you leave. If you have any other questions, please ask me – I’ll be happy to respond. You can continue asking follow-up questions until you have all the information you need even after rating my service. Thank you!

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

thanks for your prompt reply to my question. Given that the oven has only been operating for a couple months, does the problem suggest a defect or some other problem? I installed the unit so as to insure good airflow;


Are these ovens prone to control board failure? I understand that the units can/have failed after high-heat self clean, but I've not done a self-clean cycle so wonder if the unit is a lemon or whether I'm going to be faced with more control board failures in the future.


Thanks in advance for your advice. I'll contact whirlpool canada for the part number.


So the problem suggests that you likely have an issue due to poor manufacturing or possibly all the vibration from shipping it. Heat related issues would cause problems, but the fuse will normally break first before you have other issues which is why it's not likely related to a heat problem.

Tyler Z. and other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Follow-up. I found a Canadian part supplier and had them ship me a replacement electronic control board. However, though the display, internal light and fan seem operable, there is no heat from any of the elements...regardless of setting (reg bake, broil, convection)


Any ideas?

OK so it sounds like you have one issue sort of fixed but now it's not heating. If the oven is now turning on properly but it's not heating, make sure the oven is getting 240 volts from your house and not just 120 volts.

Other than that, the oven has a thermal fuse on the back of the oven that monitors if the oven gets too hot.  Now the problem with these thermal fuses is that they are set at such a low tolerance that they will fail even when nothing is wrong if you run the unit through self clean since it gets so hot.  You'll need to uninstall the entire oven and remove the back panel to access the thermal fuse you need to replace.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.


In a previous forum Q you linked this answer to a different part (9759243)...Thermal Cut-out that was said to be an updated version correcting for the low tolerance temp. Both the part you cite above and in this Q are said to work with my model of oven. Is one a better version?



Not exactly, either one would work for this unit. This unit is new enough that there isn't an update thermostat, just a couple that would work.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

got it. Therefore I should simply purchase the cheaper of the two units?

That would probably be the wise thing to do, yes.

Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Problem not solved...replaced ECB, then with the part you recommended (thermal fuse) and still no heat from any element. Fan and lights OKAY, Clock OKAY. No heat on any of the three settings (bake, broil, convection)

Then your oven is not getting 240 volts. You'll need to check power coming to the oven because it will look like it's working with 120 volts, but it won't heat without 240 volts.

Customer: replied 3 years ago.

I'll check, but the fact that there has been no material change in the incoming power configuration leads me to think that this isn't the issue. This oven would never have functioned without 240, yet it worked for months prior to the ECB board going.

Aye, I completely agree which is why it didn't come to mind to check the power before hand. But if the thermal fuse on the back of the oven and the control board have both been replaced yet the oven still won't bake, broil, convection, self clean etc... the only thing left is the incoming power to the oven if it's only getting 120 volts instead of 240 volts.

Customer: replied 3 years ago.

...will pull out my multi-meter.

Alright, good luck. Be sure to check where the power cord actually comes into the oven and not at the breaker or wherever else.

Customer: replied 3 years ago.


I tested the power at various points from wall to and from the ECB. In the end I found that there was a poorly soldered connection on the ECB (it had been a re-conditioned board!). I soldered the connection and now the unit functions. I have heat, fan and lights. ya!

awesome, I'm glad you got it all up and running again.