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Ive got a ~3 year old Fisher Paykel Fridge/Freezer (french

I've got a ~3 year...
I've got a ~3 year old Fisher Paykel Fridge/Freezer (french doors, freezer at the bottom). About 6 months ago we had an F20 fault and after googling, I found the snapped wires at the ice-cube tray. I repaired that and it worked fine. About a month ago, F20 came on again, no snapped wires. The thermistor read infinity when reading the resistance with a hosehold volt-meter. I ordered a replacement, put it in and all seemed fine, so I put the freezer door back in and as soon as I closed the freezer door, I had the F20 fault again.

When I unplug the unit, and plug it back in with all doors closed, F20. When I unplug the unit and plug it back in with one door open (no matter which, fridge/freezer): no F20 fault. I close all doors, all is fine. I open one of them again: F20.

Any thoughts??

Felix Schweizer, Los Angeles
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Answered in 7 minutes by:
8/11/2013
Randy 43
Randy 43, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 3,773
Experience: 20 yrs experience 18 in home,gas license , refrigeration expert
Verified

Randy 43 :

Hello, my name is XXXXX XXXXX iam happy to help you with your question today..F-20 is a mullion flapper fault , was it a F-24 you had for the icemaker possibly ? that is a icemaker sensor fault?

Randy 43 :

does the code go away once the doors are closed ?

Customer:

Hi Randy,

Customer:

the code stays when the doors are closed. when drawing water, it disappears, except the blinking wrench in the left, lower part of the panel.

Randy 43 :

but it just beeps when the doors are open?

Customer:

The error code definitively now is, and always was F20. When I googled it, it shows up for the snapped wires of the temp sensor for the ice-cube tray.

Customer:

Yes, it only beeps when the doors are opened, then hitting any of the buttons on the panel silences the beeping

Randy 43 :

which model do you have ?

Randy 43 :

it is on the bottom right of the frame when you open the freezer drawer

Customer:

that is a great question! Its a Active Smart refrigerator with chilled water through th edoor and automatic ice dispensing, french door version. I'll check the freezer drawer again, but have not seen the model number before I posted.

Customer:

yes, it was hidden by the door, its FR201A. I'll get the serial number too

Customer:

Product number 22154-A

Customer:

Serial number AIQ722372

Randy 43 :

ok thx , every F20 ive ever run across is related to that flapper on the fridge door , that folds over , but most of the time it is a broken wire at the hinges for either fridge door ..pull the fridge out about a foot and remove the plastic hinge covers for the top hinges and check the wiring at each hinge , there will probably be a broken wire up there under one of the hinges , the plastic covers snap off ,let me know what you find out

Randy 43 :

F24 is always the icemaker sensor , i have to disagree with google :)

Customer:

Well, the first time it worked since those wires were snapped. But I like your idea of snapped wires someplace else, then it would sorta explain why it doesnt matter which door is open on restart. At least sorta.
I am not quite sure which plastic hinge covers you mean, the ones over the doors of the fridge? Or something in the back of the fridge?

Randy 43 :

on the top of the fridge doors right at the top ,they cover the hinge

Randy 43 :

that is why they beep when door opened , ive had that repair 6 times over the last year and it has always been a broken wire under that cover

Randy 43 :

you only need to pull the fridge out 6-12 inches ,so the covers snap off ,if you have cabinets above them

Customer:

Ok, got it and removed both covers. The left has only two wires the look in good shape. The right has a series of them, plus the water line and all looks fine.
I also found a very helpful brochure with all error codes underneath there, not sure why this information is hidden away and not available in the user manual!
Any suggestions for checking wire health? In your experience is the broken wire right there, or should I follow it lower into the door?

Customer:

And what about the freezer drawer? There must be some contact too? The unit beeps also when the freezer drawer opens.

Randy 43 :

if all those wires are intact then it is generally the mullion heater in that flapper that folds over , usually not anywhere else , i would double check those wires just in case ,lift them out and run your finger across them , if they are broken it is sometimes hard to see

Randy 43 :

F20 in the tech sheet refers to mullion flapper as well correct?

Customer:

The tech sheet calls F20: "Flapper heater current low"

Customer:

and says, Primary action: check for short ciruit

Randy 43 :

that is the mullion in the door ,short circuit is a wiring issue ..if those wires are ok ,then the mullion heater is faulty

Randy 43 :

lift those wires up and follow them with your fingers ,ive been caught a few times thinking they were ok

Customer:

I just cannot feel/see anything wrong with the wires, but they also very quickly descend into the door. So I could take off the door and work myself to the other end of the wires and then use a ohm-meter to check integrity?

Randy 43 :

if they are ok in your view , then remove the plastic clip on the bottom of the flapper , there is a foil heater there with a quick connect plug , it should show ohms , if it is open then that mullion heater is the cause

Randy 43 :

flapper is on the left door , there is a phillips screw that holds the bottom clip on

Customer:

the left door? Ie the one that does not have the water running through it?

Randy 43 :

yes , that is the one that has the fold out flapper

Randy 43 :

F20 relates to a issue with that flapper or the wiring to it

Customer:

OH, now I finally get what the flapper refers to!

Customer:

There is a 14.7Ohm resistance. Now I'll check the wire integrity to that one.

Customer:

and the wires from the top connector to the bottom connector are good. So now this signal needs to get back to the control unit on the other side somehow? There might be a break there?

Randy 43 :

yes ,if it cant get the signal ,it will bring up that code , you seem to know what your checking for , nice to deal with people that know how to use a meter

Randy 43 :

14 ohms ,thgat heater is ok

Customer:

thanks for the kudos! And its nice to deal with somebody on the other side that helps diagnose! Soooo, how can I check the return from the flapper at top of left door hinge to connectors on right door hinge? Or from connectors on right door panel?

Randy 43 :

well, if the heater is ok and the connections on both hinges are ok..did you check those connections at the quick connect at each hinge , they are small but if it doest connect then it will bring up the code ,honestly ive only run across bad connections at the mullion or those quick connects or wiring at the hinge ,it has never been anything else

Customer:

Hi Randy,

Customer:

I just put the flapper back together and can now read the 14Ohms all the way up to the small connectors. But the other side runs down back below the exposed parts, and do not know where it picks up on the other side. I feel pretty good about the left door and will now do a thorough check on the right. But without knowing what I should be reading at the different connections, its a bit hard to know.

Randy 43 :

it is usually the left door with the mullion .if the right door connections at the top are ok ,it may be the main board connections at the left rear ..pull that board out and make sure all the plug ins are tight ..that is left of the compressor

Customer:

well as you have it, I pulled all the connectors apart, could not find anything useful, stuck them back together and now error code 20 is gone!
The only unsatisfying thing is that I really am not convinced that I found the fault, maybe it was the connectors, but maybe I just jiggled a 'bruised' wire.
In any case, thanks a ton for your help, you got me away from playing with the ice maker, I really did not enjoy taking the door off etc. And our freezer is pretty full of heavy stuff!

Randy 43 :

14 ohms is good . i really hate to harp on this but those wires on the left hinge are not pinched ? anywhere ?

Randy 43 :

it has to be a wire issue

Customer:

I fully agree with you! But just rechecked and really cannot find it. Makes me think it even might have been at the bottom of the flapper, those wires make some sharp turns there. But I have, at least for now no desire to go back there :)

Customer:

Just one last question, is this a general issue with threading wires through moving parts, or in your opinion is Fisher Paykel maybe a little weak in this department?

Randy 43 :

those wires are pretty slim as you can see , with the hinge cap and moving parts they may become weak over time

Randy 43 :

its all in the manufacturing

Randy 43 :

i hope you resolved the issue , its nice to work with somebody that knows how to work a meter ..refreshing

Customer:

have a great rest of your day!

Randy 43
Randy 43, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 3,773
Experience: 20 yrs experience 18 in home,gas license , refrigeration expert
Verified
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Randy 43, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 3,773
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Experience: 20 yrs experience 18 in home,gas license , refrigeration expert

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