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Hello, my name is XXXXX XXXXX iam happy to help you with your question today..F-20 is a mullion flapper fault , was it a F-24 you had for the icemaker possibly ? that is a icemaker sensor fault?
does the code go away once the doors are closed ?
the code stays when the doors are closed. when drawing water, it disappears, except the blinking wrench in the left, lower part of the panel.
but it just beeps when the doors are open?
The error code definitively now is, and always was F20. When I googled it, it shows up for the snapped wires of the temp sensor for the ice-cube tray.
Yes, it only beeps when the doors are opened, then hitting any of the buttons on the panel silences the beeping
which model do you have ?
it is on the bottom right of the frame when you open the freezer drawer
that is a great question! Its a Active Smart refrigerator with chilled water through th edoor and automatic ice dispensing, french door version. I'll check the freezer drawer again, but have not seen the model number before I posted.
yes, it was hidden by the door, its FR201A. I'll get the serial number too
Product number 22154-A
Serial number AIQ722372
ok thx , every F20 ive ever run across is related to that flapper on the fridge door , that folds over , but most of the time it is a broken wire at the hinges for either fridge door ..pull the fridge out about a foot and remove the plastic hinge covers for the top hinges and check the wiring at each hinge , there will probably be a broken wire up there under one of the hinges , the plastic covers snap off ,let me know what you find out
F24 is always the icemaker sensor , i have to disagree with google :)
Well, the first time it worked since those wires were snapped. But I like your idea of snapped wires someplace else, then it would sorta explain why it doesnt matter which door is open on restart. At least sorta.I am not quite sure which plastic hinge covers you mean, the ones over the doors of the fridge? Or something in the back of the fridge?
on the top of the fridge doors right at the top ,they cover the hinge
that is why they beep when door opened , ive had that repair 6 times over the last year and it has always been a broken wire under that cover
you only need to pull the fridge out 6-12 inches ,so the covers snap off ,if you have cabinets above them
Ok, got it and removed both covers. The left has only two wires the look in good shape. The right has a series of them, plus the water line and all looks fine. I also found a very helpful brochure with all error codes underneath there, not sure why this information is hidden away and not available in the user manual!Any suggestions for checking wire health? In your experience is the broken wire right there, or should I follow it lower into the door?
And what about the freezer drawer? There must be some contact too? The unit beeps also when the freezer drawer opens.
if all those wires are intact then it is generally the mullion heater in that flapper that folds over , usually not anywhere else , i would double check those wires just in case ,lift them out and run your finger across them , if they are broken it is sometimes hard to see
F20 in the tech sheet refers to mullion flapper as well correct?
The tech sheet calls F20: "Flapper heater current low"
and says, Primary action: check for short ciruit
that is the mullion in the door ,short circuit is a wiring issue ..if those wires are ok ,then the mullion heater is faulty
lift those wires up and follow them with your fingers ,ive been caught a few times thinking they were ok
I just cannot feel/see anything wrong with the wires, but they also very quickly descend into the door. So I could take off the door and work myself to the other end of the wires and then use a ohm-meter to check integrity?
if they are ok in your view , then remove the plastic clip on the bottom of the flapper , there is a foil heater there with a quick connect plug , it should show ohms , if it is open then that mullion heater is the cause
flapper is on the left door , there is a phillips screw that holds the bottom clip on
the left door? Ie the one that does not have the water running through it?
yes , that is the one that has the fold out flapper
F20 relates to a issue with that flapper or the wiring to it
OH, now I finally get what the flapper refers to!
There is a 14.7Ohm resistance. Now I'll check the wire integrity to that one.
and the wires from the top connector to the bottom connector are good. So now this signal needs to get back to the control unit on the other side somehow? There might be a break there?
yes ,if it cant get the signal ,it will bring up that code , you seem to know what your checking for , nice to deal with people that know how to use a meter
14 ohms ,thgat heater is ok
thanks for the kudos! And its nice to deal with somebody on the other side that helps diagnose! Soooo, how can I check the return from the flapper at top of left door hinge to connectors on right door hinge? Or from connectors on right door panel?
well, if the heater is ok and the connections on both hinges are ok..did you check those connections at the quick connect at each hinge , they are small but if it doest connect then it will bring up the code ,honestly ive only run across bad connections at the mullion or those quick connects or wiring at the hinge ,it has never been anything else
I just put the flapper back together and can now read the 14Ohms all the way up to the small connectors. But the other side runs down back below the exposed parts, and do not know where it picks up on the other side. I feel pretty good about the left door and will now do a thorough check on the right. But without knowing what I should be reading at the different connections, its a bit hard to know.
it is usually the left door with the mullion .if the right door connections at the top are ok ,it may be the main board connections at the left rear ..pull that board out and make sure all the plug ins are tight ..that is left of the compressor
well as you have it, I pulled all the connectors apart, could not find anything useful, stuck them back together and now error code 20 is gone!The only unsatisfying thing is that I really am not convinced that I found the fault, maybe it was the connectors, but maybe I just jiggled a 'bruised' wire. In any case, thanks a ton for your help, you got me away from playing with the ice maker, I really did not enjoy taking the door off etc. And our freezer is pretty full of heavy stuff!
14 ohms is good . i really hate to harp on this but those wires on the left hinge are not pinched ? anywhere ?
it has to be a wire issue
I fully agree with you! But just rechecked and really cannot find it. Makes me think it even might have been at the bottom of the flapper, those wires make some sharp turns there. But I have, at least for now no desire to go back there :)
Just one last question, is this a general issue with threading wires through moving parts, or in your opinion is Fisher Paykel maybe a little weak in this department?
those wires are pretty slim as you can see , with the hinge cap and moving parts they may become weak over time
its all in the manufacturing
i hope you resolved the issue , its nice to work with somebody that knows how to work a meter ..refreshing
have a great rest of your day!