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I was reading your repair advice for a similar fridge. My

I was reading your repair...
I was reading your repair advice for a similar fridge. My fridge stopped cooling. Condenser fan is on, freezer coil fan also on, but no cooling. Did the "comp" test, and no 120 ac voltage, so replaced main board. Then I read your J15 harness comment, and am not sure how to test that, as my multimeter pins are too big for the holes in the harness. I put them in the back of the harness, and get one volt or so. The brown wire to the inverter has 120 ac. I assume my inverter is bad, but want to be sure.
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Answered in 27 minutes by:
8/10/2013
Barry G.
Barry G., Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 6,823
Experience: 27 years in home appliance repair. EPA refrigerant transition and recovery certification type I & II.
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Hello my name is XXXXX XXXXX you for choosing our service. Kelly is out this weekend.

Trace your J-15 wire to the inverter and with both ends connected measure the dc voltage at the inverter end. What do you get there? I know you measured at the board but this is to also check the wire.

Thanks,
Barry
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

What do you mean by "with both ends connected"?

Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Also, every time I reply to you I am directed to a page that says they are having problems with the site.

Both ends of the J15 wire. One at the board and one at the inverter. Leave them connected and measure at the inverter.

Yes I am getting the same thing on my end. I have to post 2 or 3 times. I have reported it to the engineers.

Thanks,
Barry
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

So where do I put the leads? I know at the inverter end, but where, exactly, do I place each lead to measure the voltage? This may sound stupid, but I don't know if I am making contact with the actual wire.

Customer reply replied 4 years ago

This is what I did: I inserted my red lead into each pin at the harness of the J15 on the board, with the harness attached, and got a little less than 1 volt DC, with the multimeter set at 20. I then tested the other end, the end that goes into the inverter, by disconnecting the harness there, and came up with the same, less than 1 volt DC reading on each.

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I’m Gina, and I’m moderator for this topic. It seems the professional has left this conversation. This happens occasionally, and it's usually because the professional thinks that someone else might be a better match for your question. I've been working hard to find a new professional to assist you right away, but sometimes finding the right professional can take a little longer than expected.

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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

I never received an answer. The website was having trouble yesterday. I suspect he lost patience with me.

Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Will someone else be contacting me to help?

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Bryan
Bryan, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 12,157
Experience: 15 yrs. experience as a certified appliance technician.
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Hello, Thank you for using this service, I will be helping you with your problem today

Good afternoon, can you remove the plug on the compressor and test power at the connector shown here? graphic

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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

I know that goes to the pins on the condenser, but that's one I haven't been able to get to. To the left of the condenser there is a gray cover that I am not sure how to remove. Just to the left of the cover is the inverter, butted right up against it.


 


Just some additional information on what I've done so far. The J15, with the wires removed, measures 7.6 vdc between the red and the white, if that's how I am supposed to measure it. All wires connected, the J15 puts out 5 vdc. Disconnected I read it is supposed to be higher than that.


 


Also testing between J8 and J7, pin 9, I get no AC out to the condenser. Nor do I get any AC out of J9 to J7, pin 9.

are you talking about number 902 on this diagram ?
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Yes. Not sure how to remove that to get to the plug.

sorry I had to clean my computer yesterday I was having issues,let me know when your back on, thanks, Bryan
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

I'm off and on myself. On now.

Tom Goellner
Tom Goellner, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 1,652
Experience: 32 yrs. experience servicing major appliances and HVAC equipment.
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Just to clarify - you ARE getting 120 volts AC on the orange to black wire at the inverter ? If you do go to the mother board at the J15 connector and measure the DC voltage from the red to white wire , if you get nothing , remove the connector and measure across the two pins . Do you now get DC volts ? If you do it means the inverter is drawing down the volts - the inverter is bad. You may have to use paper clips and fashion them to make connections to your meter leads to be sure you are making a good contact on these small connections, or use alligator clip wires and attach the paper clips to the alligator clip wires and then alligator clip them to the meter leads , whatever works. i keep a set of meter leads that have been ground to a point just for this purpose.
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

It looks like my last question didn't take. I have brown and orange wires that terminate at a plastic connecter, where the orange continues to another orange wire, and the brown connects to a black wire that goes to the inverter. I do get 117 VAC from the brown wire. 7.6 VDC with red and white J15 disconnected, and 5VDC with the connector plugged in.

All right - the next step is to check the compressor windings . There are three pins on the compressor, remove the wiring to the compressor and with an ohm meter set to a low scale check from pin to pin ( 3 readings ) these ohm values should be the same value. Post back with the results of this.
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

I think I said before, that I am having a hard time getting to those pins. There is a gray cover that I don't know how to remove. The inverter is in the way.

The inverter is held down by screws to the base if you need to move it , but the cover over the compressor terminals just snaps in, so use your fingers or a small screwdiver to squeeze the sides to get it off
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

There was a single screw facing forward at the base of the inverter behind some foam glued over it. Wish my hands were smaller... I get 6.8 ohms across each combo of pins.

Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Just to throw it out there, I disconnected my ice maker, and removed it to look for the thermistor. I don't think that would cause any problems, but thought I'd mention it in case there is an electrical loop that needs the icemaker wiring hooked up.

The icemaker would have no effect on the compressor running. From your readings the compressor windings are good and you have the correct AC and dc voltage to the inverter . The inverter converts single phase 120 volts to 230 volt 3 phase to make the compressor run and it is not doing that . Replace the inverter which is part number - WR55X10504 and the cheapest source I found for this part is from www.pcappliancerepair.com for $ 465.00
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If you have no further questiions please rate my answers - it's how I get paid.
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Hi Tom. I just got back from vacationing, and am back to work. I will replace the inverter next week. If that is the problem, and the fridge works, I will rate you with excellent service. i just don't want to close things up when I still have a broken fridge. Thanks.

OK - wondering what happened to you
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Tom, I ordered the inverter and am waiting for it. The day it arrives I will plug it in and rate your service. Thanks.

If there is no correspondence for a while these questions will TIME OUT , but since you have re established we're good to go ( for awhile )
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Hi Tom. The inverter arrived today, but does not look like the original. The connector appear to be the same, but instead of a gray plastic housing, it's a metal housing with a smaller gray plastic housing inside. Should I just go ahead and connect it? Thanks.

Customer reply replied 4 years ago

A followup... since all three connectors looked the same, for the most part, and all fit, I went ahead and wired it up. One immediate difference I noted was that I can feel the condenser vibrating a bit. Didn't do that before. Will keep you posted. It's really hot here today, so will let you know if I detect cooling in the fridge. Hope this does it!

Customer reply replied 4 years ago

After an hour or so, the grid in the top part of the freezer is clearly cold. The fridge though, is not yet cooling. The condenser is very hot to the touch.

Customer reply replied 4 years ago

I read another thread that said if the condenser was too hot to touch, that is a problem. The freezer side was starting to get cold, but I am worried about the condenser heat. I turned it off. Since I disassembled the freezer section, which has a fan under it on the freezer side, could that be the problem? Just want to play it safe. Thanks. Right now that fan was blowing, but just hanging in the freezer until i reinstall it.

The fan in the freezer SHOULD run - put it back. The condenser ( the grille or "radiator " ) near the compressor does get hot ,especially the part where the refrigerant first enters it , too hot to hold your finger on it for long. There is a fan - the condenser fan - that should be running to help cool the condenser . If that is running - go ahead and let it run and see what happens - be patient ,it takes a while to cool a warm refrigerator . The freezer section will get cold quicker than the fresh food side. If your fridge is empty of food it will take at least an hour to an hour and half for it to get down to the correct temps.
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Okay. I will attach the freezer fan and plug it back in when I get home. Thanks.

I'll look for your answer tomorrow AM
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

After putting everything back together, and waiting hours, the freezer section is cool, but the fan does not run in the freezer section, and the condenser is hot enough to burn my fingers if left on it for more than a second or two. The temp in the fridge is 78 degrees after three hours. It is simply not working, and I am disconnecting again.

I want you to check the freezer fan motor. To do so you need a 9 volt battery and 3 jumper wires ( preferrably the kind with alligator clips on the ends ) Connect the positive side of the battery to the red and blue wires of the fan and the negative side of the battery to the white wire of the fan , yellow wire not used. If the fan motor is good it will run if not the fan motor is bad - part number WR60X10043 for the fan motor
Tom Goellner
Tom Goellner, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 1,652
Experience: 32 yrs. experience servicing major appliances and HVAC equipment.
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

This morning the freezer and fridge were both very cold. I don't know why it took so long for the fan to come on, but it appears to be working now. Thank you for your patience and help. One last question: The connector from the J15 to the inverter, since testing it, does not have a really good connection. Is there any reason why I shouldn't eliminate that connector and simply hardwire the connection? Thank you.

No reason you can't hardwire it, as long as there is enough slack in the wires to accomplish it.
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Tom Goellner
Tom Goellner
Tom Goellner, Home Appliance Technician
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