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Jason, Home Appliance Tech
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 798
Experience:  15yrs experience
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I am repairing a refrigerator ice maker and have some ques

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I am repairing a refrigerator ice maker and have some questions

Thank you for using Just Answer. I will be glad to assist you in your answer. Think about safety when doing repairs, electric, water, gas, ect.


Hello.....When you close the optic door does the red blinking light go to solid red light?

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

yes. I replaced the light emitter and receiver. It did not work previously after the ice machine stopped. Thought it was as simple as that but when it didnt work I tore into the icemaker and found the heater leg had burnt out the housing and connection. So I ordered and replaced all these parts including thermostat. Now cant get power.

Poor mold 1/2 full with water. If icemaker cycles the ice, but does not fill back with water, replaced the water valve. If ice just sets in the icemaker, check all you connections, emitter/receiver board connects, icemaker harness (both ends). I think you may have a faulty water valve since it is in series with the icemaker heater your found burnt. If you find this information useful, please give me a good to great rating. If not, please respond back for further assistance for a great rating....Thank you
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Sorry for not mentioning. I did fill the mold with water. It did nothing but freeze in place. nothing cycled. The water dispenser on front of door works fine so at least that half of the valve assembly is good. I have no idea how to check the electrical beyond what I have done. I removed the ice maker. There is a four-wire connection coming out of the side wall that plugs into the ice maker. I used a volt tester in each part of the plug and got nothing. I also plugged in the ice maker and shorted across the V and L ports per something I read. It did nothing. Also tried same with T and H ports and got nothing. Where else can I check the wiring. I looked in the back of the refrigerator where the power goes in and cant see any way to trace to the icemaker.

The fact that the optics are working, tell me 120 volts is present. Use your meter, and do a continuity test on the wire harness from end to end of the icemaker. From the molex plug to the end that inserts into the icemaker. You will need to take the harness loose from each end to do this.....Thanks
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

I dont have a meter. It is just a cheap voltage tester for checking outlets. It only lights up when it detects power. The optics are working but I cannot tell where the wiring comes from as it is hidden in the wall of the freezer. is it possible that the short exists in just the section of the harness that plugs into the icemaker?

Here is how to cycle the icemaker.......unplug the fridge, insert a jumper between T and H on the icemaker, close the door, plug the fridge back in 30-60 seconds after unplugged, wait fro 10 seconds before opening the freezer door. The icemaker should be cycling.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

did exactly as you said. Nothing happened. jiggled jumper wires, tried again. Still nothing.

Ok, try this, remove screws of receiver board, jumper the black wire, and black (white stripe) wire with an insulated jumper. There should be 120 volts here, so use an insulated jumper. Now you should have 120 volts to icemaker. If not, then the white fuse in the harness of the icemaker if open, or wiring in liner of fridge is open. Open wire in liner of fridge is non-repairable. I hope this helps....Thank you
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

are you talking about the receiver board for the light emitter? or do you mean jumpering something on the icemaker?

Jumper the black and black wire with white tracer behind the receiver board. Now you should have 120 volts at the icemaker. If no voltage, then the white fuse in that icemaker wire harness could be open. If not, the there is an open wire in the cabinet which cannot be repaired.....thanks again
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

assuming you are talking about the receiver board.......I used my volt tester on it and got it to light by touchingt the soldered nubs on the board below the wires. touching either of the two on the right with either of the two on the left lit up the tester so there is definitely power to that point.

Cool, it sounds like that fuse in the icemaker harness may be faulty. This is why you are getting voltage to the board, but not to the icemaker. I hope this helps. I will know that I have assisted you when I see that you have given me a good to great rating.....Bonuses are always accepted, but absolutely not mandatory......thanks again
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

So I need to replace the entire harness that goes the length of the ice maker? I assume that the fuse is located in the thicker section of the black wire that is held by a clip on the back of the mold? any way to replace just the fuse?

The fuse is not replaceable, you will have to replace the little harness unfortunately. Thanks again

Jason and 2 other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

last question: why does the receiver board getting 120V guarantee that the icemaker is getting 120 V? When I unplug the ice maker and use the volt tester on the exposed plug at the freezer wall, why doesnt it show power if the fault is in the harness fuse?

You are using a light tester. If you have a volt meter, you can test the fuse by continuity. Without it, there is no other way to check it. You can only do so much with one of those testers, then a volt meter is needed. But, we no, the problem is either the fuse, or broken wire in liner. You will have to either replace the harness, or borrow a meter to verify if fuse to bad, or not in this situation.....thanks again
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

agreed. I hope it works. Thanks for the help

Thank you.....I wish you well