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Chas, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 16453
Experience:  Maytag, Whirlpool, GE & Kenmore Factory Trained Service Tech
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I have whirlpool model wtw5550xw0. Initially my wife noticed

Customer Question

I have whirlpool model wtw5550xw0. Initially my wife noticed the machine didnt spin a load. She put in another load and realized it had not agitated (clothes were not clean). After going to Appliance Parts Pros to seek help (i called a local repair that I got off Angie's List but no one wants to work on these HE Machines!), and was advised to change the motor. I did that, still didnt work. Then was advised to change "Splutch" and I did that, still didnt work. My initial code (been messing with this for 2 weeks now, so if I remember correctly), F7 E5 &/or F7 E1, which I did put on my enquiry. I was told after these didnt work that it was probably initially the actuator or shifter. Put new one on. (Did calibrate machine after replacing motor btw!) Still not working. The code was then however, F5 E1 &/or F5 E2, and the lid lock was flashing.
You guessed it. Ordered new lid lock but when it arrived the outer covering on wires was split although wires inside looked fine and intact. The split was about 12 inches. Put it on and still not working. Was advised that even though wires looked ok it was probably the lock they sent out and would send me another. I also ordered the Strike since the code indicated a fault.
Just finished putting it on, calibrated again just to be safe, ran a diagnostic with the LED on "Done" and all LED'S blinked twice, one second, blink again, and repeated.
When I ran the calibration the sensing light came on and you could hear it draining...NOW, no matter what cycle I put it on, the sensor comes on as normal with lid lock light, then lid light goes off, as normal, but then lid light comes back on and just flashes!! As aforementioned the code doesn't tell me anything unless them all blinking is something not listed.
I'm at my end. This washer was about $700, so far have spent little less than $300. Can you help or should I just give up? This is first problem I've had, and of course it's quite enough.
Submitted: 4 years ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 4 years ago.
Hello, and thank you for using this service. I'll be helping you with your problem today.

OK so it appears as though you started out in the right direction, you were getting F7 E1 and F7 E5 and you replaced the actuator---that fixed that error code did it not?

Then you started getting F5 E1 and F5 E2 and that was fixed by replacing the lid switch (2 times since the first one came faulty) correct?

Now you try to start the washer and the lid lock come on, goes off, and then comes back on---correct? When it comes back on---it means you're getting an error code. So you're getting either one of the same errors as before or an all new one. Which error is this that you're getting?

Customer: replied 4 years ago.
No, normally once you start the washer the sensing light comes on along with the lid lock light. Then the lid light will go off and the sensing light stays on, 'weighing and checking load' once it does that the lid lock should come back on so it can proceed with wash. This is all "normal"
What it is doing now is the same thing it did on the beginning. Which is it will fill and drain.
The initial codes I got were the F7 E1/E5. I put a new motor on and a new actuator and a new splutch. After all of that I got the code for the lid lock and/or Strike (what catches the lid). I have put on a new lock and even tho it is split in covering of the wire, the wires are fine underneath. It's not all the way thru. That is the new one I am using, Lang with a new bezel and a new lid switch.
As before the machine did come on after I wrote you, but all it did that I know of was fill, then drain----did not spin. I know this because the few clothes we put in are soaking wet!
Unless the lid lock I bought which is part latch is W10404050, the Strike is W10240513, the motor drive is W10249628, the actuator W10006355.
Expert:  Chas replied 4 years ago.

Hello from our service,

My name is Chas, I am so happy to help you today.
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Did you clear all the old error codes before calibrating the unit?




Customer: replied 4 years ago.
Thanks for the lesson on negative ratings....being in law enforcement I do understand what it means, and I know I can get my money back if I am not satisfies! Having said that, I will be most satisfied if we can get this machine to work. That is the bottoms line. So:
I believe that after calibration, if you hole start button for 3 sec(?) it clears the codes. I know it does in other circumstances. Also if you plug and unplug, the manual says it will clear the codes. I know I followed the paper that was sent with the drive motor on calibration about 8 days ago, but truly I can't tell you how I did it earlier today after calibrating. (As mentioned before I, I didn't change anything requiring calibration but did it as either a precautionary step or because of stupidity..:)
Expert:  Chas replied 4 years ago.
To clear the error codes, get into diagnotstics, when you set it for error codes and press the start button, do not turn the dial, press and hold the start button again for about 5 seconds, then remove the power for a minute to the unit, then go into diagnostics again and see if the error codes are gone, let me know..
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
Expert:  Chas replied 4 years ago.
Thank you
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
They weren't gone. Perhaps you mean this? 1. Go into diagnostics.
I do this by turning selector know 1counter clockwise, 1 Clockwise (CW), 1 CW, 1CW, 1CCW, 1 CW
that takes me to where they all flash in 2sec intervals.
2. Turn selector knob until only the Done LED is on.
3. Hit start, get codes.

Is that what you are asking or do I need to put it in the done position before holding start button 4 sec?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
Ok that I've done. I don't have the display on this machine. I have to bring them up as I explained in last replY by turning selector knob.
I just repeated what you said before. Go into diagnostics. Press start button 5 sec. (I did this after turning selector knob, once in diagnostics to where only the Done light is illuminated, hit start for 5 sec)I then turned it off for one minute. Checked for the codes again. Now I do not get any fault/error codes, all the lights flash now.
Just to be clear. After plugging machine back in. I turned the selector know until I had all lights flashing per manual diagnostic procedure, then put it on the Done LED by turning selector again until only the Done LED was on, then pushed start. Normally that brings up the fault/ error code.
However now when checking for the code, all the lights flash. I suppose that means they have been cleared?
Expert:  Chas replied 4 years ago.
Yes, now do a calibration routine and try a load?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
Expert:  Chas replied 4 years ago.
thank you
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
Ok. When I push start for calibration, washer made a noise after all lights came on, which is pretty normal. Then after maybe 30-60 sec. Lid light came on and was flashing. Don't know if that is normal. Calibration is supposed to last for 2-3 min +/-. When lid light came on flashing, I set stop watch and after 5 min. with it still flashing, I'm writing you, cause I really don't think that is normal? Same as it has done after last couple of calibration, and what it does when I put on any cycle..
Light is now off and washer hasn't done anything. I can put clothes in it again, but think I will wind up with wet clothes again.This is too crazy!
But if you want me to try again? Can I use the same delicate wash that's still wet if you do want me to try again?
Expert:  Chas replied 4 years ago.
Okay run it without clothes in it and see what it does.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
What I did just prior to getting this message was put the little bit of clothes in it, turned it to drain and spin.
It came on, made the noise my wife said it normally makes when draining. It stopped, made the noise again like draining, stopped again.made the noise like draining, but the lid light is flashing and it's not doing anything else.
FYI, at the beginning I did take off agitator (impeller) so my wife could wash it, and since it only comes off one way, (I didn't get to where I could take off the bolt(?) or whatever its called because I didn't have a spanner wrench), it was easy enough to put back on. I don't think it has anything to do with whatever this problem is but I wanted you to know everything I've done.
Is it possible that even tho the wires look fine in new lid latch that it's faulty, and my original one was as well?
I've replaced motor, actuator, strike as I sad plus this lid latch, but lid lock light still flashes?
Doesn't make sense however, because when I brought up code again I didn't get any?! Just all lights flashed as I said!
Sorry, really frustrated with this now. I also checked that its level and it is..
Expert:  Chas replied 4 years ago.
I would like to contact the MFG tomorrow and see if they have the answer for you. Is that okay?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
Sure. I'm so fed up now....seems like it's probably something really stupid, or easy. But I can't figure it out. By tomorrow my replacement lid lock for the other replacement they sent me should be here as well & I'll put it on.
I'll be at work until about 3, but I will have my cell phone and I have texts enabled.
And I won't be giving any negative reviews. I just really want to get this fixed before my wife moves me outside.
Thanks so far...
Expert:  Chas replied 4 years ago.
No problem on that, If I hear from the MFG before you get home, I will let you know
Expert:  Chas replied 4 years ago.
What is the status on your machine repair?
Expert:  Chas replied 4 years ago.
I heard back from the MFG, they say if the lid lock replacement does not work the main control board will need to be replaced on the unit..

You can order by clicking on the blue link below

Click here for the correct part for your unit.

Repair Clinic offers a 365 day no question ask return policy, so if the repair does not work you can return the part to them for a full refund, yes this even includes electronic parts that many other part suppliers will not allow to be returned.

All I ask of you is to please rate me with one of the top 3 ratings. If there is anything else I can help you with today just let me know. You can continue asking questions for as long as you like even after you rate me. Click the continue conversation link if you would like to continue this conversation. If you are done and rate a 1 or 2 star please consider using the "continue conversation" link and telling me what more I can do or what more you would have liked that was within my power so that I possibly give you that information or help me improve my customer satisfaction rating. . .

Bonuses are welcome if I have helped you a lot, however they are not mandatory

Customer: replied 4 years ago.
Sorry for the long reply!

There are 3 different control panels for this model, or rather 2 main control boards and 1 control board. Since there is no other info on any of them or picture, how am I supposed to know which one is which?
The link you sent me is the same company to which I am a forum member. I've spoken to them at least 4 times prior to contacting 'Just Answer' which is why I tried (trying) y'all. The codes I gave you are the same ones I gave them and posted on the forum. Neither the forum, their customer service, nor in addition the service manual indicate the Control Board or Main Control Board (whichever of the 2 or 3 are the correct one) when checking..
The Tests needed for my codes (F7/E1 or E5) suggest running Test 8 to show if its the Run Capacitor, which I can't run because I don't have instructions listed under Lid lock Fault. And it seems it's a toss up between the weak motor or run capacitor &/or what you (or manufacturer), is saying re Main Control. And what would give that answer is the one test the service manual doesn't have; Test #8.

Under the Lid lock Fault which is F5/E2 (code I didn't got initially), it states in book that the fault is displayed if lid lock hasn't moved into locked position (tho it seems that it does), or motor cannot be powered. Motor does power however.
Under the Lid Lock Fault it has (a) check for interference (did that), (b) lock interference with lock striker (bought new one), (c) wash media buildup (checked that), and finally (d) Main Control (1 of the 3 listed?), detects open switch when attempting to lock &/or Main Control cannot determine if lid lock is in a locked state. If so, "See Test #8: Lid Lock"....& I've said the book only goes up to Test #7 ?

, even so they stated they were 99% sure it was motor drive so I bought new one.

Where am I? I.
After checking on Forum and Repair Clinic (aka AppliancePartsPros) and having 3 different people from the latter give me same advice,
I have replaced:

A. From initial diagnostics:
1. Drive System: Motor. Order # 74753949 Part W10249628 $239
2. Drive System Actuator/Shifter Order# 74795592 Part W10006455 $46.25
After doing this one of them (?) cured the original problem given by aforementioned codes!
B After doing above, next advice..with "new" codes appearing:
1. Lid Latch Order# 74842670 Part W10404050 $44.20
2. Strike Order 74904831 Part W10240513 $23.15
Total= $352.60 without shipping
If Main Control Board $168-279
New Total $520-$631.60

Where am I? II

After running diagnostics (with all codes cleared prior to running),
I got; F5E1/E2....Lid Lock &/or Lid Switch. Both require Test 8 to determine if main control can't detect....(See above, same thing)

I suppose what I'm trying to say, and doing a pretty bad job of it, is that it seems that every time I replace one part or so, I have to replace another which wasn't even part of the initial problem according to the codes. And I am loathe to now spend from $168-279 for yet another part that doesn't in any way that I can tell fix the machine with "any" certainty.

I am certainly not trying to say you've done a bad job, nor trying NOT to pay anyone. I am saying that it doesn't seem prudent to spend not only another $58 dollars after the $352.60 + shipping, I've already spent, and an additional $168-279 depending on just which Main Control Board it winds up being, and not being any closer to knowing just what is or was wrong with this bloody high efficiency (High Price!), washing Machine.
It seems likely with steps I've already taken that after replacing which ever Board you/Manufacturer is suggesting, that I may then have to replace something else until everything has been replaced on the washer costing more than a new washing machine.
I hope you understand this.
If I could have heard from someone , not only from "Just Answer" but Repair Clinic/ APP's Forum, and Technician I spoke to before dong anything, "Sorry Tony, no way of knowing with or without codes. So really, you need to replace the Washer...and by the way, don't buy another Eco HE Whirlpool, I would have been more sure that something is amiss here with these differing codes coming up after fixing one problem, just to get another problem. Now, I am not certain that I am any closer to getting to main problem what ever it might be.

Is there any thing at all that would have caused this domino effect other than my ineptitude? Could it have been detected in any other way? Was there a reason I got the original codes that did indicate that it was the motor or actuator, but underlying it was the Main Control Board all along!?
If you can't tell me this I am sorry, but I don't believe that you have helped me. Seems we are still at a hit or miss stage. I have no more time to mess with this washer, especially not knowing if the problem is going to be fixed, and even which Main Control Board is the correct one I need, if I need it at all! Was there a particular reason the manufacturer gave you the particular Main Control that they did? Could it be one of the other ones? If so. How are we to know which one since there is no description of the Control Boards on the site, picture?

Thank you for your efforts. I await your answer before can canceling the service. One last thing, if I do can cancel as it looks now, is there any way to rate you with a positive rating whilst canceling? I have no desire to hurt your ratings in the least, but neither am I willing to pay for what I don't feel gets me any closer to fixing this by doing what the 'manufacturer' suggests and didn't need "Just Answer" to tell me what may/may not fix the washer?

I sincerely thank you for 'your' effort in any case,

Tony (Anthony) Barreto-Neto
Expert:  Chas replied 4 years ago.
Your response I had to read 3 times, Possibly it is one of the longest ones I have ever received in the last 5 years of working here. As for my anaswer I called the Whirlpool Tech line, I went over everything that you said you have done and what I have told you to do. The link I sent for the part for you to order was just that, I am not a memeber of their Forums and such, so I don't know about how they work...As for them saying this is not a good washing machine, I agree with them on that, I cringe every time I go into a customers home and see one. It was built on Whirlpool technology of 25 years ago and failed miserably. I am a front loading washer lover ever since they started this Bull Crap top loader energy saving device. As for rating my trying to help you, then if my help was not good enough I would not like to be rated at all. I can refer you for a complete refund of your deposit if you wish...

Customer: replied 4 years ago.
Sorry about the long email. I agree this is a very bad washing machine. The control panel has been tested and it's not that. If it isn't the timer, I have to give up.
I don't know how to work this Chas. I don't want to give you a poor rating! I also am not prone to paying $58 over the now $499+/- I've spent on this bloody machine. Maybe nothing will fix it. I'm going to try and send all parts back, if they accept them (& they should), it will be within the time I have left of the 30 days with this site. If that happens I will then pay the $58. If they won't take them back after saying they would, then I don't want to pay this site, either way I'll let you know, Is that fair?

Expert:  Chas replied 4 years ago.
Tony, do not rate and I will process a refund, even if you rate me excellent and I file a refund I get dinged, as long as there is no rating I can process the refund and we come out even, sound good...
Expert:  Chas replied 4 years ago.
Tony, I processed your refund as you requested