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Intermittent heating

Intermittent heating
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Answered in 5 minutes by:
6/19/2013
Kelly
Kelly, Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 23,233
Experience: Highly accurate diagnostician with over 30 years experience!
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Thanks for counting on us to help with your appliance problem. My name is XXXXX XXXXX I look forward to helping you! What exactly are you experiencing? May I please have your model number so I am able to provide you with accurate, model specific information?
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Ooops! I guess that would help. Kenmore model 110.96468100. My mother-in-law says sometimes she can feel the heat and other times she can't. Very intermittent. If it was a timer I was thinking it would be a consistent heat/no heat situation with each cycle.

Do you know where she is feeling the heat at? Are the dry times much longer now?
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Dry times are a bit longer. Feels the heat in the drum. She bought a new dryer today and I'm inheriting this unit. I'm going to repair it and give it to my son and his buddies for their apartment. College kids...

Great idea! Well, elements and thermostats are not usually intermittent, nor are timers. I would look at the seal in the rear of the drum and the seal at the front of the drum. The air needs to follow the intended path or the element will get hot and shut down prematurely. I suspect an air flow issue, so while you have it accessible, remove the back and just to the left of the place where the air comes out, you will see the bottom of the lint filter housing, shown as number 55 in the diagram below. There are four 5/16" screws that hold that tight to the bulkhead. Remove those screws and gently pull the bottom out so you are able to see in there. I suspect it may be plugged. Clean it out as well as the rest of that area and you will probably have remedied the issue. You may want to check your mom's vent line, too. If it is plugged, she may experience the same thing with the new dryer.

Please let me know if you have additional questions or need clarification. There is no additional charge for any follow up help!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thank you for allowing me to assist you! I am happy to answer any follow up questions you may have atno additional charge.

 

Thank you for a positive feedback rating!

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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Ummm, yeah I forgot about air flow. Fire hazard too if stuff is in there. I intend to replace the belt since I'm there anyway. If I need to check the thermal cut off and high limit thermostat what kind of resistance readings should I get when I check with my meter?

There should be no resistance, you should read full continuity as they are either open or closed.
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Makes sense. If I pull the wires and have no power to the dryer then there should be no resistance. If I did have resistance with the above items then I would have a bad sensor. Right?

Yes, if it is open, it will not allow the voltage to pass to energize the element. Since it is heating, I suspect you will find them all closed and reading full continuity. Also, remember that the cycling thermostat will open and close to regulate the heat, so it will feel different at different times, especially if the air flow is not as good as it should be. The heater does not stay on all the time. It will cycle on and off with the thermostat at around 155* F at the air vent on the back of the machine. If you have questions once you get into it, let me know. Also, the kit below has the rollers, belt and idler in it for about what a belt will cost!


Maintenance Kit <----- CLICK HERE FOR THE CORRECT PART FOR YOUR MODEL


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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Thanks. I'll be driving Saturday to pick it up and bring it home. 150 mile round trip. I might have to repair it at my son's apartment since I have no way of hooking it up for power here at my place. Already have one in place here and no space to have two in the same room.

Okay, well you shouldn't have any trouble. I do have a service manual for the Whirlpool dryers if you think it would be helpful to you.
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Sure, every little bit helps.

That manual is available below!


CLICK HERE
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Thanks, XXXXX XXXXX Appreciate the help.

You are very welcome!


Thank you for allowing me to assist you! I am happy to answer any follow up questions you may have at no additional charge.

 

Thank you for a positive feedback rating!

Kelly
Kelly, Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 23,233
Experience: Highly accurate diagnostician with over 30 years experience!
Verified
Kelly and 87 other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

I'm back. I pulled the panel off and there is minimal lint in the lint chamber. There is no heat in any cycle. I get no voltage to the heating element when running in any cycle. With no power I checked the ohms and got this: Upper cut off at the top of the element box=0.2. The lower thermostat in the element box=0.2. The element had 9.9 to 10. The 4 wire block had 7 between the purple wire terminals and 0.1 to 0.2 between the red wire terminals. The two terminal block to the left of the 4 wire terminal had 0.2. I listened to the timer and I don't hear the typical mechanical tick, tick, tick. Timer?

Are you at the dryer now? The stats and the element look okay according to those readings.
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Yep.

Okay, you are at the dryer now? Do you have access to plug the dryer in and test voltage?
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Yes. I did check at the terminal block. 240 volts on the outside terminals and 120 from the middle to the right and middle to the left.

Okay, nice work. Can you please remove the wire from the heating element that comes from the thermostats and tape it off? Then, start the dryer in a heat cycle and measure the voltage at the wire that is still connected to the element to ground, looking for 120 VAC. Do you read 120 VAC there?
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Hold on.....

Sure, thanks!
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

33 volts with the H2 wire removed and 25 with the H1 wire removed. Hard to tell what goes where so I tested both.

Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Is that making sense? No 120 volts.

Okay, with both wires hooked up, do you read 120 VAC to ground with it running?
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

32 volts from each terminal and grounded to the cabinet with the motor running and in the timed cycle.

Okay, we need to look at the voltage at the cord again. Test from the center to each outer terminal. What do you read, please? Looking for 120 VAC.
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

120 from the center to each outer.

Hmmm, that doesn't make any sense. You have 240 VAC across the two outer terminals?
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Yep, about 240 on the outer. Correction on the previous stuff. I initially grounded to the cabinet. So, I grounded to the ground which pops out from the terminal block and where you can take a small wire and ground to the receptacle screw. Still 240 on the outer terminals and 120 from center to each outside terminal. I read 120 to the H1 wire on the element, but not the other wire.

Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Oh, the 120 voltage was with the motor not running.

Okay, so with the thermostat wire disconnected and the motor running, you read 120 VAC at the element?
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

I unplugged each of the wires from the element one at a time. With the motor running I could get 120 volts from each of the element terminals.

Okay, and with both wires hooked up, what voltage do you read between the two wires hooked to the element?
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

0.33 with motor running and .05 with motor not running.

Okay, so you are losing the voltage from the timer. Can you turn the timer on to a heat cycle and test from the heavy red wire to ground for 120 VAC, please?
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

120 volts.

Okay, start the dryer and measure at the same place again, please.
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Still 120.

I forgot a crucial step, I am sorry. Can you remove that connector from the timer and then test the timer terminal, please?
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

1 volt plugged in and not running. 0.7 volt plugged in and running.

BINGO! NIce work! That timer contact is bad and the timer will need to be replaced. The timer you need is available below.


Timer <----- CLICK HERE FOR THE CORRECT PART FOR YOUR MODEL
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

I presume the contact should have read 120 with the wire off?

Correct! You can take the front of the timer off and inspect the timer contacts inside to confirm, but the voltage is not making it through.
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Still can't send photos on this site, that's been out for several months. I opened it up and one of the contacts is scorched and totally missing. Bad boy even arced when I was testing.

Oh wow, that is crazy! Sorry about the picture issue, I am not sure what the deal with that is. Well, at least you have confirmed the issue, well done!
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Thanks for the assist.

You are very welcome, have a great weekend! That timer is available below, too.

Timer <----- CLICK HERE FOR THE CORRECT PART FOR YOUR MODEL
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Just thought you might like to see what I found when I popped the timer cover off. Pretty ugly. I can't attach a photo due to problems with the site, but I can send this link to my Dropbox account which they tell us to use as a workaround for now.


https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/46475340/Timer%20issue.JPG

Holy cow, that fried pretty good!
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Just wanted you to know I've replaced the timer and all is well. All I have left is to take the shop vac and clean out the lint and replace the belt as preventive maintenance. Thanks again for the help.

That is great news, very well done! The success stories are my favorite to get!

Have a great evening!
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Thought you might like to see this. Finished the dryer this Saturday and basically tore it down to its components. Changed the belt (major deterioration with cracks) and pulled the chamber out (no easy feat since I had to remove the top and some extra screws from the drum support in the rear). It was easier see this once I removed it and I couldn't clean it any other way. The motor was pretty bad too. Had to be careful at the motor since I think these things still have capacitors? Touch the wrong contacts and it will light you up. I used a reefer coil cleaning brush, but since it has a metal shaft I knew to be careful about the contacts. Should have had a paint brush to dust it off instead. Good Sears shop vac helped.


 


https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/46475340/Lint.JPG

Oh, wow! That one is pretty full! That reminds me of a warranty call I ran a couple of years ago. It was a Whirlpool dryer of the same style you have with the filter on the top. The guy said the machine worked great for a couple months but was taking forever to dry now. So, when I got there and got a good description of the problem, I pulled the lint filter from the machine to inspect the air flow, he asked, "Well, what the h*** is that!?"

As it turns out, he was newly divorced and his wife always did laundry! I asked if I could have the lint I removed to "fix" the dryer and will someday build a shadow box for it and hang it in my office. It was one of the most entertaining calls I have been on!

You will enjoy much better air flow, resulting in a faster and much more efficient dry now! Nice work!


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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

OK, I feel so inadequate. Yours is much better. Can we say "fire hazard"?

The guy was amazed that I asked to save his dryer lint, but that was the worst one I had ever seen, it was so funny!
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Kelly, a follow up question. My son says it still takes a while to dry clothes in this dryer. Is this model prone to take a while due to its small size or is there anything else I should check?

Long dry times are almost always due to venting. The vent should be no more than about 25' in length and each 90* angle is equal to 8'. How much venting is there?
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Hard to say, since it's in an apartment. There was a panel on the wall they had attached with screws to cover it, but it only went up the wall for a couple of feet. It must vent upward to the attic and through the roof possibly. My son says he doesn't see a vent on the wall.

That is probably why. He can easily test by drying two loads of the same, like half a dozen bath towels, and time them. One with the vent unhooked and one with it attached to the wall vent. This will tell right away if the vent is the issue, as I suspect he will find it to be.
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Thanks, I'll have him work on it.

Okay, keep me posted! Have a great evening!
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago


Just a little follow-up on this issue. Dryer vent at the apartment was blocked. It still takes a bit of time to dry things, but I think this is a relatively small dryer and my son and his buddies would overload it. I would like to open another question to you about the washer now. How do I proceed?

Great, glad you found the cause! You can just start another question and in the opening line put "FOR KELLY ONLY" and I will see it.
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Kelly
Kelly
Kelly, Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 23,233
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Experience: Highly accurate diagnostician with over 30 years experience!

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