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So, to confirm, if i meter AC voltage across the power leads from the control board, i should NOT get 120 volts IF the board is bad. Otherwise, IF my meter shows 120 volts while the unit is stuck in the wash cycle, the control board is NOT the problem. If that's the case, what would the next step in diagnosing the problem consist of?
I think i have most of the information i need... I really appreciate it!
You mentioned about confirming adequate water pressure to the top rack... How do i go about performing this check since the unit obviously shuts off when the door gets opened?
Once last question - I did read online where you can dismantle the control board in order to examine for the faulty solder joint and re-solder the joint myself to repair the problem.
Is this a potential fix for my situation?