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Thanks. There is a red deposit on everything. It may be iron oxide or clay. The well is in granite down 400 feet. The top soil is clay loam.
What do you recommend?
The parts are plastic except for one. you can check out the valve at
I did check out the valve you suggested, but I can not find out how much travel the control arm can travel before it signals the valve to open and refill the tank.
Hello again, any of these types of float valves begin opening as soon as the float ball moves the float arm down more than a degree or two, then the water pressure pushes the piston inside open and water begins to flow.when the float rises, it takes the float arm up and still does not stop the flow since pump pressure is enough to force the valve open... so the water level rises until there is enough pressure from the float arm to force the valve to seat against the pressure from the pump.The smaller the float valve, the smaller diameter the piston is, and the more likely it is to stick closed because the pump cannot put enough pressure on the piston to open it if there is any debris inside the valve.The valve I referenced is designed for very heavy flows, and will likely have a larger piston than the valve you have and will be subject to much more pump pressure (pounds per square in rises stays the same, but net *force against the valve sea increases as the surface square inches increases)....so that when the float arm goes down the valve opens easier.If your valve is too small in relation to the pump discharge pressure then the pump will have a hard time forcing the valve open... that will be especially true if the pump is near the bottom of your tank and the float valve is near the top
If you can tell me how tall the tank is and put a gage on the discharge line of the pump we can tell more about what is happening... we may want to fit an even larger float valve if the pump pressure is borderline.I can stay with you on this with no time limit. Let me know what you think, we can go from there.Phil.