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I have a GE Profile refrigerator, PSS26LSRF SS bought in 2006.

I have had intermittent times...
I have a GE Profile refrigerator, PSS26LSRF SS bought in 2006. I have had intermittent times when the freezer stops cooling. At times the refrierator will also over cool, in insections and freeze vegetables.

In the past, I've "rebooted" the unit by turning off the temperature controls and the breaker to the frige: wait about 5 minutes and turn everything back on. This would seem to cure the problem for another month or two.

Currently, the freezer, the top half anyway, will not stay cold enough to freeze and the refrigerator side also seems to not be cool enough. My "reboot" proceedure does not solve it this time. What should I try doing first?
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Answered in 3 minutes by:
5/21/2013
Barry G.
Barry G., Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 6,823
Experience: 27 years in home appliance repair. EPA refrigerant transition and recovery certification type I & II.
Verified
Hello my name is XXXXX XXXXX you for choosing our service. Please take your time and make the checks below.

First look in the freezer (even though it may be warm) at the rear inside wall, can you find a frosty spot anywhere? Sometimes you have to feel the wall as its difficult to see.

Check to see that the freezer fan is blowing steady air out of the vent in the freezer, is it?

If the freezer fan is operating and you found no frost on the rear inside wall of the freezer go around behind the unit and remove the lower panel. Touch the compressor on the top. Is the compressor hot, warm or cold and is it vibrating? And have you heard a buzz or click from back there?

Is the fan back there working as well?

Thanks,
Barry

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Customer reply replied 4 years ago
The entire back wall of the freezer compartment below the light is covered with frost. I can hear the freezer "running" but do not detect any air movement.
Thanks Roger, do you have a volt meter to test with?

Barry
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago
Yes
Give me a few minutes to get a picture for you.

Barry
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Set a meter above 20 volts DC and go around behind the fridge. Remove the 8 x 10 panel up on the rear outside wall.

Download the file below. Arrowed red is the connector to measure. Count holes from left to right just like you read. Not the wires but the holes in the connector.

Black meter probe in hole 3 and leave it there.
Red meter probe first in hole 4.
Then test again in hole 8.

Take your time and let me know what you find.


CLICK HERE FOR FILE

Thanks,
Barry
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago
Counting from top to bottom. Hole 3-4 gives me 2.0 volts and sometimes 3.9 volts. Holes 3-8 gives me a consistant 13.5 volts.
Thanks, XXXXX XXXXX are mounted horizontally and some a vertical. If yours is horzontal is that connector nearer the left side of the board?

Barry
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago
The box I uncovered is mounted horizontally. The connector corresponds to the picture and is on the right side of the box. Same as if you took your picture and rotated 90 degrees clockwise.
Good thank you. I just wanted a clear picture of how you counted and that is correct. You need to replace that main control board. The factory part number is XXXXX You can shop anywhere with that number and get the correct part.

To replace that unplug the refrigerator and remove the 8 x 10 panel on the back. Remove the connectors and replace the board. Put the connectors back they will only fit where they belong. Follow the instruction sheet that comes with the part. Plug the refrigerator in and turn it on. If it does not turn on right away, wait 40 minutes, it will be in the defrost cycle and will start. I have the part linked below for you with a year warranty.

www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Main-Control-Board/WR55X10942/1531075?RCAID=1000064

Here I want to bring up that you have free followup questions for this same problem for 30 days no matter how you rate my answer. I mention it because it is possible you have 2 problems and the board could repair them both, it other words all of the trouble you had before could be related to the board. The only way to know for sure is to put the board in, get it cooling and observe. If things work normally then great, if you continue to have the freezing problem please have this page saved to your favorites, return and let me know. Save this page to your favorites.

If you found my answer satisfactory please login if you are not already logged in and please leave an ok or better rating. If you have any questions use the reply to expert link.

Thanks,
Barry
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago
Barry,

The freezer fan is now working, it started on its own. The voltage on 3-4 is now 12.4 V. The fan not blowing was always the case when the unit failed. Would you still agree that it is the main control board because the problem is intermittant?
Yes Roger, that voltage measurement was incorrect. It is possible that there is a loose solder joint on the back of that board. I have seen those a lot, you might try reheating all of those joints and see how it does. Also there is a transistor built into that fan motor, it will not take a lot of low voltage before blowing. Those do not restart when that happens so the motor is still good.

I really thing that being around it though you may have bumped a part on the board that is not well soldered.

Thanks,
Barry
Barry G.
Barry G., Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 6,823
Experience: 27 years in home appliance repair. EPA refrigerant transition and recovery certification type I & II.
Verified
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Barry G.
Barry G.
Barry G., Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 6,823
6,823 Satisfied Customers
Experience: 27 years in home appliance repair. EPA refrigerant transition and recovery certification type I & II.

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