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Maytag Centennial Washer Problem

I have a Maytag Centennial...

I have a Maytag Centennial washer model#MVWC300XW0. When you push the start button, the sensor light comes on, the lid locks then it starts to spin. Then the 'lid locked' light starts blinking and it does nothing. Also the spin cycle wasn't working on the normal wash cycle, but would work if you set it on the "drain and spin" cycle. Could we maybe run it through the codes and see what is wrong?

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Answered in 4 minutes by:
5/11/2013
Bryan
Bryan, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 12,157
Experience: 15 yrs. experience as a certified appliance technician.
Verified

Hello,

Thank you for using this service

Sure we can run diagnostics on this.

C TEST MODES

1.Be sure the washer is in standby mode (plugged in with all indicators off).

2.Perform the following sequence of movement using the cycle selector knob.

NOTE: AFTER RESET

sequence "a" through "e" must be completed within 6 seconds.

RESET

- Rotate cycle selector knob counterclockwise one or more clicks to clear sequence.

a. Rotate cycle selector knob clockwise one click and wait ½ second.

b. Rotate cycle selector knob clockwise one click and wait ½ second.

c. Rotate cycle selector knob clockwise one click and wait ½ second.

d. Rotate cycle selector knob counter clockwise one click and wait ½ second.

e. Rotate cycle selector knob clockwise one click.

Successful activation of Diagnostic Test Modes will be indicated by all status LEDs (except for Lid Locked) flashing ON and OFF in half-second intervals.

NOTE: LED names may try that and let me know if it goes into diagnostics mode.

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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

All lights blinking...

To access fault/error codes, perform steps 1 and 2 of Activating the Service Diagnostic Test Modes. Turn the cycle selector knob until the status LEDs correspond as follows.

Press the START button to enter Fault Code Display Mode. The status LEDs flash on and off.
1. To view last 4 fault codes:
 Turn cycle selector knob clockwise to view fault codes in the order of most recent to oldest.

Fault/Error Code Display Method- Fault/error codes are displayed by alternating the state of the Status LEDs in one second intervals.

All fault/error codes have an F# ***** an E#. The F# ***** the Suspect System/Category and the E# ***** the suspect Component System. You need to check which lights are blinking and count the blinks for each light.

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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

All lights were blinking. I turned knob 1 click right and the done light came on.

Okay that indicates F1 E1, main control fault. The main control has failed. This will need to be ordered and replaced. I am including a link below to the part.
control Click that blue link. It is part number 6 on this diagram. I wish It was better news.

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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

The new main control board came today. Just installed it and the machine is doing the exact same thing. When I run the diagnostic test it still comes up with the done light lit constant. Please help

Jon
Jon, Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 3,646
Experience: Appliance Service Technician with 10+ years experience.
Verified

Hello, Can you tilt the machine back and look under the washer for me please? I would like for you to check the belt and pulleys. If you pull the washer away from the wall about three feet and tilt it back against the wall you should be able to get under the washer and look. If you look and see directly under the centre of the bottom of the tub, there should be a belt cover and the belt going around the motor and tranny pulley. Does it look like the belt has come off the pulley or does the belt cover look like it is grinding on the belt or does it look like the belt has come off completely? Or the pulley has come off completely?

Most common issue for these models is the tranny and motor pulley nut, the nut that holds the pulley in place, comes loose and can come off completely and cause the pulley to drop and thus make the belt shift and come off. Take a look and see if this is happening. If it is, locate the pulley nut first, then remove the 5/16 nuts holding the belt cover on and remove them. Then remove the cover, replace the belt on the pulleys and tighten down the nut to the pulley and replace the belt cover and 5/16 nuts and you should be ok. Please check that and get back to me here and let me know what you find. Thanks.

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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

Belt is on and everything seems to be spinning fine..

Ok. Thank you for checking. What is the washer doing?
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

When I load the machine the sensing light and lid lock lights come on. It spins for a second, the lid lock light goes off. Then it spins a couple more times and the lid locked light comes on blinking.If you wait about 10 min. it will fill with water then goes to wash light, but the lid locked light never comes on and it doesn't agitate or spin out at the end of the cycle just drains...(same with rinse cycle).Then it never goes into spin.The light comes on but it doesn't spin out. I did the 3 clicks right,1 click left, 1 click right diagnostic test. All the green lights lit up and stayed on. 1 more click to the right.and the "done" light came on (not blinking) . Last guy said that is the code for a bad main control. Replaced it last night and it is still doing the EXACT same thing. Same thing comes up when I run that test again. Please Help

The 'done' light flashing in error code check mode doesn't mean that you need the control. It actually just shows that the control board doesn't register any errors. But the issue here is that the control board doesn't always register that there is an error when the machine fails. Sometimes and actually most times on this model machine the control board will not register an error. The lid lock light is not coming on consistently and the machine is filling then stopping then filling and is starting again. This is actually almost common on this machine. When it does this it is actually going through a load sense and trying to sense how heavy the load is and how soiled it is as well. It often stops and starts again in the first few minutes of the cycle. Now, if the belt and pulleys are ok underneath the machine and the machine still gives you the inconsistent washing and starting and stopping after the first ten minutes of a wash cycle then you may need a new actuator. The actuator on this model is located just next to the motor and it will shift the tub into position to spin and to wash. It is a common part to fail when you are having a washer that is starting and stopping like yours. The control board is the next most commonly replaced part on this machine. So if you have already replaced the control board part number W10438123 and that didn't fix your issue, then we know you need the actuator. It is part number W10006355 and should cost about $55. Install that and it should fix your problem. You can get the part at http://applianceassociatesli.partsquik.com/ . Just click on or copy and paste the link above to your browser to open the website. Then enter in the part number I gave you above for the actuator and have them send it out to you. You can also call them and do everything over the phone, sometimes it is quicker that way. Please feel free to call them directly. Their number is(###) ###-#### Again just give them you part number and they will send it out to you. Please get back to me here if you have more questions r need more help and I will help you more.

Thanks.

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Customer reply replied 4 years ago

The "done" light was not blinking in error mode. It was on constant. Does that make a difference? I just hate to keep dumping money into this if it's not a for sure fix.

You had already looked at the error codes a few days ago. And you came up with the f1e1 error. Which is for a bad electronic control board.it is part number w104381123. Is that the board you replaced? If not, then you replaced the wrong board. If so, then like I said earlier, there is another problem with your machine. And it is recommended by Maytag and whirlpool that when replacing the control that you also replace the shifter actuator at the same time. Since they are connected electrically, when one shorts out or is damaged, it is usually the other part that gets damaged as well. So if you did replace the correct control board also replace the actuator. I work on these machines constantly and see this error often. And 80% of the time when you have this error or problem the control and actuator are the problem. If you would like to run another error code check cycle then just follow the steps listed above in the earlier post and go through the last four error codes. If again the f1e1 error comes back, then I would replace the board and actuator at the same time. Run that and come back to me here and let me know what you find and I will help you more. Thanks

Jon
Jon, Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 3,646
Experience: Appliance Service Technician with 10+ years experience.
Verified
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Customer reply replied 4 years ago
You nailed it.... I replaced the actuator and everything is running fine again. Thanks so much you definitely now your stuff.
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Jon
Jon
Jon, Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 3,646
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