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Tyler Z.
Tyler Z., Appliance Doc
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 81161
Experience:  9+ years being an appliance technician with factory training.
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I have a Magic Chef over-the-stove MCO153S microwave oven.

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I have a Magic Chef over-the-stove MCO153S microwave oven. It stopped working altogether because of overheating (probably, because a gas plumber was running all four burners for a test while running the exhaust fan for much too long. This is my theory, anyway, as I wasn't actually there for the whole time.
I called Magic Chef and they tentatively diagnosed it as a burned out thermocouple--a fairly common thing apparently.
So I ordered one from (Magic Chef recommended them) and I have the thermocouple part.
I've removed the microwave completely and it's now on my workbench, but I can't figure out how to get behind the control panel to find and change the thermocouple.
So, I'm not sure exactly what you're calling the "thermocouple" part, but there are 3 fuses and the control board itself that can cut power to the entire microwave and stop it form working. 2 of the fuses are thermal fuses so maybe that is the part you are talking about?

Either way you'll want to remove the entire outer shell since you have the unit on your workbench. To do this, remove all the screws coming in from the top, sides and the back around the border. Tip the microwave back and remove the screws coming in from the bottom on the right and left sides. Now the entire outer shell will pull straight back, up, and off. Now for the fuses, there is an inline fuse somewhere behind the control panel area that looks like a 1" long cylinder fuse. The other 2 fuses are dime sized silver and black devices. One is mounted over top of the microwave cavity with 2 wires going to it and the other is mounted to the side of the silver magnetron behind the control area. Test all of these things for continuity. If any of them do not have continuity, replace the faulty fuse. If they all test good and you're sure you're getting power to the microwave, then replace the display control board.

Please remember to rate my service once you have all the information you need. If you have any other questions, please ask me – I’ll be happy to respond. Thank you!

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Thanks--I'll get to it tonight after dinner. But you're right--I used the wrong word. It's a "thermoprotector," and you can view it at


The MagicChef woman said that it could be a fuse, but given how it happened, more likely it's this thing.


So I'll check all the fuses for continuity first and if they're ok, I'll change out the thermoprotector. If I can find it after dismantling as per your instructions.

This thermoprotector is one of the thermal fuses that I discussed before. EIther way, good luck.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Actually, after I took off the cover, I found that I didn't have to do so. The thermoprotector is only accessible by unscrewing one screw at the top of the control panel, and then the whole assembly slides up and off. You can't get to it from the side.

In fact, there are two almost identical thermoprotectors mounted side by side screwed into the front bottom of the chassis. I saw a 2" white cylindrical fuse holder mid-cavity, but didn't see any second TP on top of the microwave cavity.

I took both out, but upon closer inspection, the one on the left had wider electrical contact blades, unlike the part I had, which had the same blade dimensions as the one on the right.

So I switched out the one on the right, put back the control panel, plugged it in and everything worked!

This model seems to be different than the one you thought I had, but without taking off the cover as you explained I wouldn't have figured out what I did.

I can't give you an excellent rating, but at least you got me in the ballpark, and my information from Magic Chef tech line got me the rest of the way.

So, I understand you could access the stuff through the front, but to access all the fuses (the cavity thermal fuse above the microwave cavity in particular) you need to remove the outer shell. That is the only reason I was having you remove the entire outer shell instead of removing the vent panel and then the control panel. You already had the unit un-installed which is why it wasn't a big deal to remove the entire outer shell, but if you still had it mounted, I would have suggested to remove the vent panel and then the control panel first because you can test almost everything (except for one fuse) going that route.

Either way, I just wanted you to understand why I was telling you to remove the entire outer shell but I'm glad you got it all working again regardless.

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