How JustAnswer Works:
  • Ask an Expert
    Experts are full of valuable knowledge and are ready to help with any question. Credentials confirmed by a Fortune 500 verification firm.
  • Get a Professional Answer
    Via email, text message, or notification as you wait on our site.
    Ask follow up questions if you need to.
  • 100% Satisfaction Guarantee
    Rate the answer you receive.
Ask Tyler Z. Your Own Question
Tyler Z.
Tyler Z., Appliance Doc
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 79659
Experience:  9+ years being an appliance technician with factory training.
Type Your Appliance Question Here...
Tyler Z. is online now
A new question is answered every 9 seconds

Whirlpool Gold refrigerator not cooling in the upper portion

This answer was rated:

Whirlpool Gold refrigerator - Model  GB2SHDXTS01 Serial #  KY0910776 is not cooling in the upper portion. The bottom freezer compartment is working fine. This just started today.

Hello, and thank you for using this service.
Open the freezer drawer and do you hear a fan running inside the freezer? Also, if you look at the back panel inside the freezer, do you see any frost on the back panel?

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

The fan is running. There is some frost on the back and covering most of the vent area toward the bottom of the freezer compartment.

Ok so the frost is your problem. Your refrigerator is no longer self defrosting I'm afraid. There is really no way to test the adaptive defrost control (ADC) to make sure the timer is working, but the display board mounted to the ceiling inside the refrigerator is the ADC that normally failed. That being said, there are 3 possibilities that can cause the problem--the defrost heater, the defrost thermostat, and the ADC. You can actually test the thermostat and the heater if you have a multimeter. To do this, pull everything out of the freezer, remove the freezer drawer and icemaker, and unplug the refrigerator. Remove the back panel to access the defrost heater running under the bottom of the silver evaporator coils (where all the frost is building up). Unplug the heater and test continuity. You should have between 5 and 30 ohms if the heater is good. The defrost thermostat is the quarter sized round device clipped onto the top of the silver evaporator coils. Unplug and test continuity through this part. You should have between 0.1 and 1 ohm resistance through the defrost thermostat if it's good. If either one of them doesn't have continuity, replace the part. If they both test good, you'd need to order and replace the defrost timer because that's the only part you can't test for certain.
Just as a general reference, below is a link to the ADC because it's by far the most common part that fails if you don't have a multimeter to test the heater or defrost thermostat.
Now I did want to say that if you unplug the unit and let it thaw out or remove the back panel and use a hair dryer to thaw out all the frost quicker, it will work for a week or two, but the frost will build up again if you don't replace the defective part.

Tyler Z. and other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you