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Kelly, Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 22546
Experience:  Highly accurate diagnostician with over 30 years experience!
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Kenmore 110.73932100 will not heat

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Kenmore 110.73932100 will not heat
Thanks for counting on us to help with your appliance problem. My name is XXXXX XXXXX I look forward to helping you! Do you have a meter to test with?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Unfortunately not.

That is not a problem at all. When you first start the dryer, do you hear a series of clicks or only the motor starting? Does the igniter glow?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

motor starts and drum spins but I do not hear the flame start or see it light

Okay, thank you! Behind the lint filter housing is a fuse (number 59) that looks like the picture below. With the dryer unplugged, remove the wires from that fuse and tape them together. Will the heat then work?

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Let me try that. Can I get to it without removing other parts?

Yes, it is a bit awkward to reach with the filter housing in place, but can be done. It is behind the housing, close to the RH side.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Ok I see there are 3 nuts to remove the housing so I will try that first and see if I can get to fuse. Ok housing moved and I was able to remove both leads. Tape together and plug back in and try again?

Yes, then see if it heats.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Not heating. Ran for about 1 minute or two, then clicked 3 times and stopped spinning


Did the igniter turn red?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Sorry, I could not see anything light up

Okay, there is another fuse on the tube where the fire goes up. It is pictured below. Do the same with the wires, tape them together and see if it will heat.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

what number on drawing?

Number 43...

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

those two wires have plastic ends it appears. I have not tried to remove them yet

Yes, they might. Do you have a wire you can stick in the connectors?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

I will remove them and try using a paper clip


That will work, just be sure the paper clip does not contact any metal to short.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Did that and still that same result (no light, 3 clicks and it stops)


I am not sure why the drum is stopping. Are you starting it on a Timed Dry setting that calls for heat?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

I moved it to 50 minutes Timed Dry but ran for a bit and then stopped.

Okay, and still no heat? Is the motor making a humming or buzzing sound? Was the motor stopping before we started looking into the no heat issue?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Still no heat.

Motor sounds normal

Not sure about motor stopping because I just started it and left before I could tell if it would stop

Okay, so we have bypassed the thermal fuses, the only parts likely to interrupt the voltage to the igniter. So, can you see any obvious defects, like cracks or breaks, on the igniter?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Is that the box or what goes into the tube?

Number 4, pictured below....

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Let me go look and see if I can tell

Okay, usually it is pretty obvious or discolored.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

so should the tips of it go into the tube? Mine appear to be bent in a 90 degree angle

Yes, it should be in the tube so the fire can be lit. Does it look like the picture?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

sorry, not too good with my iPhone camera. Help any?

Kind of, but the part that glows is on the other side of the ceramic block that the wires are going in to.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

so it would be best if I remove the one screw that holds it into place and pull it out to look at it?

Yes, but be very careful, they are kind of fragile. Of course, it won't matter if it's already bad! Wink
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Ok. It is almost midnight here in Houston. It is getting too late for you?


I will go try this last thing I guess.

No, I am finishing up on months end paperwork and have a while to go yet. However, it is only 11 in Montana.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Kelly, that screw is at a right angle and I am having trouble getting a clean grasp of it. My laudry room floor is a mess so I am limited in space.


Is there a way to pick this up again tomorrow?


You have been a trooper.

Absolutely! If you want to make it way easy, you can get a meter at most any hardware store for about $20 or less. I will be on at 7 AM, MST until about 6 PM, MST.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

What should the meter's capabilities be?

how do I reach back to you directly?


How do we end this and you get paid for it?

The meter just needs to be a simple multimeter, capable of reading voltage and resistance. A digital one is the easiest to read. Let's not worry about paying until we get your dryer fixed.

To get back to me, you may simply save the URL to your favorites or follow a link that has been sent to your email.

Have a restful night and we will get this thing figured out tomorrow. Goodnight, my friend....
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

ok, tomorrow or Tuesday.


Happy Late Easter to you.

Anytime you are available is just fine, I am here during those times most days. Happy Easter!
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
hello, I am back. I have taken the igniter out and it does look a little bit discolored. one side is sparkly
Great! Do you see any cracks at all or white spots?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
no cracks but light spot in middle on both sides
Okay, did you happen to get a chance to pick up a meter?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
nope; sorry I did not take time to do such.
Oh, that's okay. Can you upload a picture of that igniter?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
I am on my iPad now and it does not show the insert the item option. can I email them to you?
We can't do anything off site. If the igniter has light spots, it is likely bad. I can link you to a new one, they are inexpensive and the company I link you to will allow you to return it if it doesn't correct the issue, even if it is installed. Do you want to try a new igniter?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
can I replay to one of the emails and attach the pics to it? [email protected]
No, it won't come through. That goes to the admin and it will not get to me.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
got you. link me to the other company for the igniter. Should I also reconnect the leads to the two items I disconnected?
Yes, reconnect everything and I will link you to the igniter. That is very suspect, so with no testing available, it is a good shot. If it does not correct the issue, let me know and we can continue! Please let me know if you have additional questions or need clarification. There is no additional charge for any follow up help!

The link below is to the part you will need from a highly recommended company rated A+ with the Better Business Bureau. They offer a 100% money back guarantee, EVEN ON INSTALLED ELECTRICAL PARTS, for an entire year! They are the only company to allow returns on installed parts for a refund and offer a FULL ONE YEAR WARRANTY!








Rating my answer "OK Service" or better is the only way I receive credit for helping you. If you need additional help or clarification, please let me know. I will work to earn your highest rating! You may refer back to this question for as long as necessary after rating, AT NO ADDITIONAL CHARGE, until your problem is resolved.

Kelly and 2 other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
should arrive by Friday so I will try it and let you know either way
Sounds good, keep me posted! Sorry for the late reply, I lost my internet connection lastnight!Undecided
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Hey, Kelly I am back. The two fuses are still out of the loop and I have removed the ignitor. Since our last chat I did get a multimeter and a new ignitor has come in (but not installed).


What should I try first?

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

I seemed to have lost you.

Sorry for the delayed response, I was away for a bit. Can you start the dryer and test for 120 VAC between the two wires that connect to the igniter, please?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

I can sure try. Help me with the meter. what marking should I be looking for?

ACV, VAC or a straight line with a squiggly line....
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

V with a squiggly line over over it then a 500 setting or 200. point to the 200?

Yes, that will be fine. When you stick the probes into a wall outlet, you should read around 120 on the display.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

sorry, took longer than I thought. Outlet showed 120 but the connection for the ignitor never showed anything while the dryer was running

Hmmm, okay, so no voltage at the igniter and both of the fuses are bypassed, correct?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

No, sorry I reconnected them fuses. Disconnect them and tie the wires together?

Well, you can test them for continuity if you want or bypass them, your choice.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

I tested the one numbered 42 and it failed the test. Display did not change.

Okay, tape those wires together so they are touching good and see if the igniter then gets power.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

still no power to ignitor

Do you have them taped together very well so the metal connectors are touching?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Could not find the tape. Connected with paper clip so let me double check it.

Okay, that connection has to be tight.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

clipped and taped it and still no voltage on ignitor connection

Sorry for the delayed response, we lost power for about 3 hours lastnight. If still no heat, the motor switch wire may be having issues. Can you see the red wire that leads to the motor from the thermostat?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Sorry to hear about the power lose. I am at work so can not look at this time. What number are the motor and thermostat in one of the drawings you sent earlier? I can look tonight.

The motor is right behind the blower wheel on the LH side, directly opposite of the heating element. The red wire is what carries the voltage to the igniter, through the thermal fuses you bypassed.
Customer: replied 4 years ago. later this evening.

Sounds good! Have a great day at work!
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

I am back. Looking for the red wire from the Motor switch.

Okay, it will be the only large red wire that leads to the heating section.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Ok, just be sure. The switch/fuse I have skipped has a red wire and a white wire that head towards the motor and meets up with more wires. NEXT to that skipped switch/fuse is another one with 2 red wires.

I got to looking at the wiring diagram and the red wire comes from the timer, not the motor as I initially stated. The white wire comes from the motor. So, can you turn the timer on and, without starting the dryer, test for voltage from the red wires on the fuses to and metal point on the dryer (ground), looking for 120 VAC, please?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Ok, I will try that now.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

tried it with one red wire and the frame of the washer and got nothing on the meter

Okay, so that means the power from the timer is not making it out of the timer. Can you turn the timer to a heat position and test the red wire right at the timer for 120 VAC to ground, please?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Kelly, I am at work now. Might you be available this evening say 6pm your time?

Yes, I will be here. My wife had surgery last week so I have been away the last few evenings but I will be here tonight.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

I hope all is well/better for your wife. Chat this evening.

Thank you, she is on the mend! Talk to you tonight, have a great day!
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Well, now it is Thursday evening but I am ready again.

You said: Can you turn the timer to a heat position and test the red wire right at the timer for 120 VAC to ground, please?


Is that inside the top part of dryer?

Yes, right on the back of the timer.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

So do I put everything back under neath or leave as is?

Make sure no connectors are loose but you can leave it apart for now.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

so do I remove the whole panel (screws on back) and then remove the end caps?



Remove the end caps (36 & 38) by prying off at the top and then remove the number 12 screws. Slide the console forward and hinge it up to access the timer.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

ok, all that is done and panel is flipped backwards to expose the timer, circuit board and other wires.


So the timer is item 3?

Yes, test between the red wire and ground for 120 VAC with the timer set to a cycle that calls for heat .
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

put on heat setting and started dryer. put one lead of meter into connection with red wire and the other lead to a screw on top of dryer. display changed from 00.0 to 00.7. Not good?

If the timer was in the position of a cycle calling for heat and you had no voltage, the timer contact inside is bad and the timer will need to be replaced.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

WAIT!! I did not have it on the heat setting. Tried it again and now it shows voltage

Okay, so that means the power is getting out of the timer. So, we are missing the voltage after the timer. The wire you tested comes out of the timer and down to the thermal fuses you have previously tested. Is there any voltage down there, testing from all of the wires to ground with the timer set to a cycle that calls for heat?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Do I need to remove the wires from fuses to test the wires?

No, leave them all connected, test for power to ground with the timer on a heat cycle but don't start the dryer.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Test each side of fuse?

Just test each wire to ground and see if you get 120 VAC on any of them.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Nothing on white wire to fuse 42 and only 6.7 amps on red wire. Nothing on either wire for item 59. Now test fuse 43?

Test one probe to each red wire and one probe to ground, any metal surface on the cabinet. The timer must be set to a heat cycle.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

I set the timer to heat cycle before testing each red wire with one probe and other probe on the metal. Red wire on fuse 42 only showed 6.7 amps. Red wire on other fuse #59 showed 00.0.


Okay, so the power out of that timer you tested lastnight is not making it down to the bottom. Can you follow that wire and find out where the voltage is dropping out?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

I believe I can. I tested the blue and black wires coming out of the timer that head "South" and those had 120 amps.


Does that require the removal of the back of the dryer?

Yes, just follow that red wire from the timer.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

ok, that will require a little repositioning in my laundry room so I will pick this back up tomorrow during the day. Is there a different diagram from Sears that would show the path of the wiring from timer to bottom?

No, the wiring is not pictured at all. I will be here tomorrow.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

well, the back is actually part of the sides also. Looks like I need to remove the front panel instead. off to try that.


Oh yeah, this is a DOT dryer. There are three screws under the timer console at the back of the top panel. The top panel will then slide forward and off, exposing the screws that secure the front panel in place.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

unfortunately, when I took all the screws off the back, the part holding the dryer drum has now dropped out of place. sometime you learn the hard way.

It is easy to put back together once the front is off and the drum is out.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

so I have removed the 2 screws on the top (right and left) and now will remove the 2 on the bottom (right and left). Then remove the front panel and pull the drum out?

Yes, you have to disconnect the door switch, then the front will pull off. Release the belt and then the drum will com e out. Pay attention (take picture) to how the belt is routed.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

too late on the picture of the belt. sorry. I did notice it was around the middle of the drum but what it did underneath, not so sure.

It's okay, I can find a pic or video.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

so back to our original plan, I need to find the wires coming from the timer and see where they go first in the bottom and test for 120?


might take a picture of that area and send it your way on one of the next replys

Red wire at the timer.....that is what carries voltage down to the igniter.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

sorry, lost connection there.

red wire from timer goes to circuit board first. tried to send picture but it errors out

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

red wire from timer goes to circuit board. Out of curcuit board to black 4 connector (2 in and 2 out) box (items 37 [power relay] and 33 [temperture select]). 2 in connectors to power relay show 120 but only one out of power relay shows 120. might this be the problem?

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

I replaced the power relay #37 but same results. Power going in but only power coming out to one red wire

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

the high limit thermostat has no continuity. the flame sensor and thermal fuse DO have continuity.


I may be reaching here but just trying many things while you are away.

Is there any visible sign of damage to the circuit board?

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

no, do I need to check the back?


See my last few comments on continuity.


off to run an errand.

You bypassed the high limit, though, and still had no heat. Obviously, if it is open, it will need to be replaced. But when you bypassed it, it should have worked.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

ok, will replace the high limit.


So the circuit board does not show any burn marks on one side. I will check the back side tomorrow.

Okay, let me know what you find. Have a nice evening!
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

I am at work now and have not looked at the back of the curcuit board yet. I have a meeting tonight so limited time then.


Might you be available during the day tomorrow (Tuesday)?

Sure, I am here 7 AM - 5 PM, MST every day and in and out in the evenings.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Ok, I will get with you tomorrow after 8am CST

Sounds good!
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Good morning. I checked both sides of the circuit board and do not see any burned or discolored parts.

Have you replaced the high limit that you found open?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

nope. have not gone to get it yet.

Okay, it would be odd to have two failures so let's see what happens when that is replaced. Do you want a link to order it or are you going to get it locally?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

I can run get it locally hopefully. Sear Parts opens at 9am.

Once it is replaced, what should I test first?

Did you inspect the wire from the timer console that leads to the fuses?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

That is where I am confused. The only red wires heading to the fuses, comes out of a replay next to the circuit board.


The only wires from the timer console that go directly down to the bottom are blue and black and they seem to go to the motor at the bottom.

Follow the wire from the fuses up to the timer console. Where does it go?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

I am trying to send you a picture but it does not work.


they appear to go the black relay to the right of the circuit board

Okay, so test that wire for 120 VAC to ground when the dryer is running. You can send pics to [email protected] and make sure to put "For Kelly in appliances" in the email.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

sent the pictures just now

let me know when you get the pictures so I can explain the wires better.


Okay, it may take a couple hours to get them, they get backlogged at that email.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Bummer.. Ok, let me try to follow the red wires from the fuses in the bottom up to the area of the timer, circuit board and relays. Can I use the continuity test to confirm each end of a wire?

yes, test the wire from the relay to the fuse. If it is good, go ahead and button the lower end back up after replacing the high limit.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

ok, red wire from relay to Thermal fuse had continuity. Red wire from Thermal fuse to high limit thermostat had continuity.

Replace high limite thermostat now?

Now put it back together and see if it heats.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

I need to go get the high limit thermostat and will let you know.

Sounds good, thanks.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Went to one local Sears Parts and they did not have it. Will need to another one later. Bummer

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

ok, back again. I am going to install the new high limit thermostat and all the other items I removed. Turn the gas back on and plug the power back in.


Do I just turn it to heat setting or also start the dryer?

Yes, go ahead and start it and see if it heats
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

will do

Sounds good!
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Darn. Nothing happened. The timer started clicking like it was counting down but when I pushed the start button, nothing. Even the clicking of the timer stopped.

So it won't even start now? Are the wires to the thermal fuse attached to the fuse on the blower housing?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Yes, all the wires are attached to the fuses and the thermostat.

120 still coming out of timer and getting to relay.

Okay, and no motor starting even?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.


Are you sure the door switch is plugged in and the door shut?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

yes, I checked that. Originally, it was not. It is now.

Open the door, will it start with the door open?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

No difference (worth a try). Starting to wonder if the amateur on this end (me) is the problem in solving this thing.

You have a definite difficult problem going there, that's for certain. There has to be a connection off somewhere!
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

seems that we have gone in circles. I have to take the door assemply off to get to the bottom wires and such. it is easy to put back on and reconnect as needed.

Back to testing for voltage on fuses and thermostat?

No, we have eliminated all those. Once it is up and running, we will be up top.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

so what do you suggest I do next?

Well, there has to be a wire off down below because it was running prior to disassembly. The issue has to be the board with the heat because the timer is getting the voltage out and the fuses are all good.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Board with the heat?

That is correct, yes. Everything else has been tested good.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

so what should I do next?

Did you verify everything is connected down below and at the door switch?
Here is the service manual, this may help. I have to leave for about an hour, I will check back when I return.

Attachment: 2013-04-24_012206_dot_gas_dryer_manual.pdf

Customer: replied 4 years ago.


Any luck in getting that thing to start?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
Oh all connections down below are good and secure and no wires hanging?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Pretty sure. Back at work so I will check this evening sometime.

Okay, keep me posted. What type of work do you do?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

While my company does literature fulfillment, public awareness mailing and supply chain management, I am over Customer Service.

That seems a very fitting position given your pleasant and determined personality! We will get the dryer figured out, not to worry. Let me know what you find with the connections.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Kelly, I am at work but leaving soon. You available this evening?

Yes, I will be around.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

good evening. all the connections in the bottom are still together. The connection to the door is still connected.

What next?

And the dryer is still not starting, correct?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.


It has to be connected to the timer if you are certain that the connections below are tight. That is the only common part between heat and start. I can link you to the timer and you can return it if it does not cure the issue, if you wish.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Any way to test the timer with meter?

Yes, but it may not be an accurate test. Turn the dryer to a cycle and measure the power at the blue wire (at the timer) to ground, looking for 120 VAC.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

It is very sporatic


Okay, so the contact in the timer is burnt, that makes sense! I think we found it! The timer is available below.


Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Hey, I got the new timer installed. Plugged unit back in and turned the timer to 80 minutes.


Still no 120 from red wire. What next?