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Ok. let me see if I understand you clearly. Your first concern is how long it takes to let oven preheat and come up to temp along with the fact that the flame has lit then gone out?
And secondly, the broil igniter doesn't light at all? although you hear the clicking of the igniter then smell the gas?
is that correct?
please just get back to me here and let me know if that is correct or let me know what else is going on and I will help you.
This is actually a common complaint on these machines and I will be able to show you how to diagnose the problems and then show you where to get the parts, if needed, then show you how to repair it yourself if you are handy and have some tools. this will all save you hundreds of dollars.
So please just get back to me here and I will help you more.
Hi Jon- yes, correct to both of the above. In addition, although I don't actually use the function, selecting the self-clean setting doesn't start either the fan or the heating action; nothing happens at all.
ok. sorry for the delayed response.
first, if the bake igniter lights and the flame is sent to the bake burner but then goes out quickly there after, then you either have a faulty or dirty burner tube or your gas supply is running short. Do you have natural or lp bottle gas?
secondly, if the broil doesnt even light at all but you are hearing the electrode ( the igniter ) clicking trying to light, then shortly after smell the gas coming out of the burner, then you may have a bad igniter or again a dirty or worn broil burner tube.
If the burner tubes are dirty then it would affect they way the gas comes out of the tube and can be lit. and even stay lit. if the wholes on the burner tube are clogged with previous baked on grease from cooking then the tube will get clogged and give you the problem you are having. And actually it is common on models that are older and havent been cleaned in a while.
So if you have an older unit or havent cleaned it in a while then I would suspect that first and have you clean that first. this would be the cheapest and easiest way to fix this machine as well. which is always nice. considering parts for thermador are always more expensive since they are a top of the line cooking manufacturer.
When you have a chance to work on this machine get back to me here and I will walk you through everything you need to do to check this machine for the cause of the failure and reasons for why it is not lighting and heating properly.
thanks and talk to you soon.
Main oven- I don't think it's a cleaning issue, the burner tubes are bright metal and no holes are clogged. The flame ignites promptly and burns an even blue all around. It stays lit for precisely 60 seconds, then a click and it goes out. 15 seconds later, ignitor fires again, and the cycle repeats. But this means it takes the oven around 20 mins. to reach a preheat of 350.
Cleaning cycle: no action at all when turned to this position
Broil: again, I don't think it's a cleaning issue; the infrared pads are clean white. Nothing adheres to the ignitor surfaces. Unlike the main ignitor, I can't see any spark when they both fire, just the buzzing noise. Firing lasts about 5 secs, then goes off. There is no repeat firing, no matter how long the briol function is left running.
Fuel supply: natural gas; pressure from street was recently tested by gas company (trouble keeping the HW heater pilot running) and increased at the street regulator. No more problems with the HW.
ok. Thank you for that added information it helps a lot.
if the burner tube for the bake are free and clear and yet the oven just turns itself off after about 60 seconds then I would either suspect an issue with the gas valve or rather the power being sent to the gas valve from the main computer.
And this could be the same issue with the broil and self clean as well.
If the main board, which sends power to the valves in either a bake or broil and when in a self clean cycle, is either shorting out or the timing is off, then that would cause the gas to either flow to the burner too early or too late.
So lets say for example in a broil cycle, when the power is sent to the igniter it too should be sent to the gas valve. So when the gas valve opens and lets the gas come to the broiler it will light when the broil igniter fires at the same time. So if the two cant work together or if one is just a few seconds off then the broiler will not lite properly. And in your case it seems like the broil electrode is recieving power first and sparking but yet the gas valve is not opening at the same time or the computer is not getting voltage to the gas valve to open at the same time to let the gas come in. so the igniter will sense that the flame was not lit and as a safety feature it will stop igniting. But yet the gas will then come in for a few seconds and smell like gas.
And the same thing can happen to the bake as well. but here it sounds like it is igniting fine but after about 60 seconds the power to the gas valve goes away and shuts off. thus the flame and heat will go out. Until the oven senses the temp dropping and will call for the reignition process.
that is one possibility. and the second is like i had said above. if the gas supply has an interruption or is affected to the point where the gas in not being sent to the unit properly. that could affect the way the unite lights and heats.
so here is what i would do to have this machine checked properly. It will be a huge pain in the neck but will be necessary to do to find out exactly what is happening here.
Either yourself or a service company shoudl check the voltage being sent to the gas valve at time of ignition and again about 1-3 minutes later. this will tell us if power being sent to the gas valve is being interrupted or not. and if it is, then you know either the computer or wiring harness is at fault and needs to be replaced. and if the power to the valve is consistent and is present the whole time it needs to be then you know you have a problem with either the gas valve or the gas supply coming into the machine.
And if you know that the gas supply to the homes was worked on or the gas supply to the outside of your house was worked on recently, then I would want to call the gas company to have them come out to take a look. just tell them that since the work done outside you have had problems with your gas range and heating supply and they will come out and test the pressure and make sure everything is operating correctly.
This is what I would do to check the unit properly. I know it seems like it is a lot of info to take in, and it is. but it is necessary to do so we know exactly what is going on with the range.
if you have more questions or concerns please get back to me here and I will help you more. and if you determine that you need parts please get back to me here and I will give you the part info so you can order on line and have the parts sent to you so you can install them or have a company do it for you. this will save you alot of money.
and if you feel that i have helped to answer your questions please remember to rate my performance positively below this chat with ok service or better rating so that I may get credit for helping you from the website. And if you have more questions at a later time please feel free to get back to me here at any time and I will help you more for no additional charge.
and please let me know what you find.
ok. Can you tell me what the voltage reading should be on the valve? and it's DC I presume? I read elsewhere that the computer boards on these ranges tend to go bad, and that they're suceptible to damage from outage or surges. Has this been your experience? I'll complete the rating too at this point, thanks