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GE Profile dishwasher model PDW9980L00SS - Constant buzzing

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GE Profile dishwasher model PDW9980L00SS - Constant buzzing from module control assembly

Initially, the Start/Reset button was flashing and the keypad was unresponsive. Resetting the breaker didnt work.

Replaced the keypad. Same results.

Replaced the Module Control Assembly. Entered factory reset mode. Keypad not responsive, no lights are lit.

Returned the MCA to GE. plugged in J1 only - constant buzzing. Plugged in everything - same results. Checked keypad resistence between pins 18 & 19 - infinite. Continuity for all keypad buttons is ok.

Plugged new keypad into old MCA - original symptoms reappear - blinking start/reset button and unresponsive keypad.

125 volts at j1 power supply.

Can someone help me diagnose? After 2 service calls and a few hundred dollars in parts, I need a real expert!

Hello and thank you for using this service,

Where is the buzzing coming from?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

the buzzing is coming from the control module. First thought is that it must be bad, but this is the second one I've received directly from GE and figured that its not likely to get two bad ones in a row.


Is there a way to tell for sure if its defective?

If you start unplugging plugs on it like the ribbon cable and other J plugs which one makes it stop
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

The power supply
Does it sound like a relay is clicking making the buzzing nois on the board?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

No, it's a constant high pitched sound like a smoke alarm
Check the heater for continuity. This may be the cause. You should see two purple wires next to each other going to the large modular plug. Check the resistance across those.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
There is continuity.
Ok, two more things to check check between the left violet and the 6th pin on the plug goling from right to left. It should be a Red Yellow wire....Then plug all the plugs back on and unplug the water valve and see if it still buzzes. Let me know what it does.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

When I check continuity between the violet (pin #6 from left to right with orange wire on left at pin#1) and the red/yellow pin # XXXXX I get continuity reading of 1.216.

When I plug everything in and unplug the large modular plug J2, it is still buzzing contantly. Assuming that this large modular plug/J2 is the one that includes the water valve, right?

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

back to the resistence between the two purple wires, I get 100Ω.

Check between 1 purple and the 6th Pin
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

the left pin #1 is orange.

1 - orange

2- grey

3 - blue

4 - dark blue

5 - pink

6 - violet

7 - violet

8 - red

9 - red/yellow

10 - black/white

11 - black/white


continuity between orange pin 1 and violet pin 6 is .671.

Resistence between pins 1 and 6 is infinite

From the #6 violet to the red/yellow......and then plug it back in and remove the wires to the water valve. Let me know
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Resistence b/t #6 violet and #9 red/yellow is 65,600Ω.

plugged everything in.

removed kick plate and disconnected pink #5 wire (flood switch which feeds water valve, right?)

Still constantly buzzing.


OK that does not seem right Take off the plug with the violet wire. Shut power off to the unit. Test from the violet to the J1 White wire and see what resistance you get.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

about 3,200Ω from #6 violet to the white wire at the connection to the supply behind the kickplate that feeds to J1.

OK that is correct. If you have that plug with the vilet wire off the board does it still buzz?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

It still buzzes when I unplug J2.


It buzzes when the only thing plugged in is the J1 supply.


While I was there and with everything plugged in to the control module, I unplugged the fan motor and the detergent pump individually as well...buzzing

Ok last thing and then I would say you somehow receievd a defective board. WIth the J1 plugged on and buzzing. Check the J1 for voltage see if you are actually getting 120 volts with a load...if you are getting only 80 or something less than 115-125 then you have a power issue causing the buzzing. Check the wire nuts and voltage at the main connection. If everything is good the control is bad.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Getting 125V at J1.

So 2 bad control modules in a row from GE... is there some kind of sequence I needed to follow when plugging everything in? Could I have fried the control by making the connections improperly or in the wrong order? When I get the new one, do I simply plug everything in and expect everything to work properly, or do I need to run this "factory reset" test by holding the up and down arrows once I turn the power on?



It is possible,k but you should shut the power down when connecting everything. I would just make sure you have unplugged everything except for the J1 to see if it still buzzes. If you had everything unplugged and it still buzzed Also you could see if you can enter factory test mode. Even though it is buzzing....

You have to disconnect power for 15 secs. Then connect power and Press

Normal wash and Pots and Pans at the same time for 5 secs......all LEDS should light up if you did it correctly.

It will start the self checks....

water valve
circulation pump
turbidity sensor
If the turbidity sensor check fails it will beep continous and the Lock Led will display.
if it passes it will move to the drain pump test prss Start/Reset to exit the mode.

Maybe the turbidity sensor is bad as I am not sure what they buzzing is maybe it is that
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

ok, is there a test i can do to confirm that the turbidity sensor is bad?

Here is the link to it. You may just want to unplug it and see if the buzzing stops. You can test it with the ratings at this link'

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Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Received the new control module this morning. With the power off, I installed the module, reconnected everything, put the door back together and turned the power back on.

again, constant buzzing.

Nothing lit up on the keypad.

Tried holding the up and down arrows in for 5+seconds within 2 minutes of turning the power on. keypad unresponsive.


unpllugged J1 power supply

unplugged everything else from the control module.

plugged in J1 - constant buzzing.


What do I do next?


Could the fact that there is infinite resistence between pins 18 and 19 on the keypad be an issue? I read somewhere that the module will buzz constantly with either a bad keypad, or when the keypad isnt plugged in.



It could be I have never heard of that happening. I thought you had tried a new keypad though?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Yes, this is a new keypad. According to page 13 in this Technical Service Guide, there should be about 22kΩ resistance between pins 18 & 19. I get infinite. Could be that I've plugged it in and disconnected it too many times and broken the connector, so I've ordered another new keypad today. Will post an update once it's installed.


Other than that, and unless I've gotten 3 bad control modules in a row from GE, the only other thing that seems to explain the buzzing with just the power plugged into it is the motor or some switch or solenoid in it cause it looks like that's the only thing that receives power directly and not from the control module. Agree?



Unplug the motor and drain pump see if it makes any difference when you plug the board in.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

the new keypad worked. Reason the original keypad was not responding in the begining was because the door latch switch was not fully depressed and closing the circuit when the door was shut. Wrapped the plastic piece that depresses the switch with a piece of electric tape to build it up a bit and that did the trick. So one control module and two keypads later, all it needed was some tape. Go figure.

That is a very odd issue I am glad you got it!