How JustAnswer Works:
  • Ask an Expert
    Experts are full of valuable knowledge and are ready to help with any question. Credentials confirmed by a Fortune 500 verification firm.
  • Get a Professional Answer
    Via email, text message, or notification as you wait on our site.
    Ask follow up questions if you need to.
  • 100% Satisfaction Guarantee
    Rate the answer you receive.
Ask Ratchet Your Own Question
Ratchet, Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 31
Experience:  Broad Knowledge of All Home Appliances
Type Your Appliance Question Here...
Ratchet is online now
A new question is answered every 9 seconds

Whirlpool dishwasher model DUL240XTPB6. At first was not filling

This answer was rated:

Whirlpool dishwasher model DUL240XTPB6. At first was not filling all the way during portions of the cycle and not filling at all during other times. I measured the voltage at the inlet valve and it showed 117 volts during the working times and around 70 volts during the not working times. That told me that it was the control board. Replacing the control board did not correct the problem. I then measured the coil resistance and found the it was 1k ohms when it was working right and open when it was not. I replaced the inlet valve and now it doesn’t ever fill even though I have 120 volts present and the coils measures 1k ohms. I am suspecting that the replacement inlet valve is bad but before I take it back I am wondering if there is another component in that circuit that I am missing. I have checked the float switch and it is working fine.

Any advice would be appreciated,

Ratchet : Hi , I'm ratchet. It sounds like you are right on. I know it ma be a silly question, but did you make sure all the home plumbing is on?

Yes, I am actually silly enough that I have checked that several times

Ratchet : If you have anything over 114v the valve should open and allow water to pass. Is the new valve humming or getting really warm?

I don't hear it humming and I haven't really checked to see if it gets warm

Ratchet : Just checking. Sometimes if you do pluming in the house etc that can happen. If you have the voltage to the valve and the float tested good, I would say its safe to call it a bad valve. I want to check one more thing. I am going to look at a diagram of your machine can you stand by a minute?

Yes - thanks

Ratchet : Can you ohm the valve?
Ratchet : I was just checking all the fill and over fill parts.
Ratchet : It's going to be your valve

I will ohm the valve. Just take a minute

Ratchet : Dart the meter to a low setting

With the power off and the wires disconnected it measures right at 1K ohm

Ratchet : And you have the voltage there?

Yes it is about 117 volts across the 2 terminals

Ratchet : Your valve should be between 500 and 1500 ohms. So in your case the solinoid is stuck closed. If the voltage is there, you've got a bad valve. I would just pick up another. If you have a steel braided hose as your supply I would change that as well. Those are flood stop hoses and can cut the supply right off to your valve regardless of weather the home water valve is is open or not

The valve does measure 1000 ohms. Does that change anything above.

Ratchet : The valve can fail in two ways. Electrically and mechanically. If the valve is bad on the mechanical end it will ohm out it just won't open. Do you have the steel braided hose as your supply? The botXXXXX XXXXXne is that if you have the voltage and the part doesn't work, you got a bad part. Like I stated before if you have a flood safe hose as the supply that could be your problem as well

No braided hose. It is directly connected to the copper supply line.

Ratchet : Bad valve

OK thanks. I feel much more confident moving forward.

Ratchet : Try to get the oem part it's a few more bucks, but a better quality part.

OK thanks

Ratchet and other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you