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Bob L Your  Appl Pal
Bob L Your Appl Pal, Home Appliance Tech
Category: Appliance
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Experience:  23 Years Major Appliance Repair
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Need someone very fimiliar with new GE clothes Washers electronics.

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Need someone very fimiliar with new GE clothes Washers electronics. During recent power failure due to ice storm the washer had 240 volts applied to it. It was not running at time but did visable damage to printed circut board. Nothing worked. Circut board replaced-- still have problems. I can assure you I have checked all the obvious potential issues. Everything points to the new circut board being bad but I want to be sure???
Hello..It is my Pleasure To Be Working With You Today....Will the washer fill with everything installed as it should..Not bypassing anything..? Also when you replaced the board did you install the jumper onto the new board..? If not..A great way to test the solenoids is to put power directly to the solenoid ..The washer should fill with water connected.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

with everything hooked up-fill lite comes on but no clicking sound--no water. also no voltage going to either fill valve in any water temp setting.Control panel is difinetly not asking valves to open. started to jumper 120 volts to solenoids but felt test was redundent as not signal coming from PCB.

Yes jumper installed "exactly" as it came from old board--took pics (before board removed)to be sure all was same.


As I am not an appliance person. If I took a meter reading, I did it more than once to be sure of my findings.



Customer: replied 4 years ago.

to confirm my theory on disconnecting water level sensor. I experimented with a different waqsher almost same model. If sensor wires were disconnected during fill, the washer immediately wnt into a waswh mode.


Problem unit will not. which leads me to believe even if I filled the tub, nothing would happen

If there is no power coming from the board as you stated it would not matter how you wired the water level switch..If you feel that you are not getting power from the control board..Then you have a faulty control board..This is all based on what information you have provided..If the power light does come on..Then your power cord is supplying power to the board..Theres no other way around getting power from the board...It is not very common for a replacement board to be faulty but it does happen..This is why i would put power directly to the solenoids..Which will rule them out all together as being faulty..There is a internal fuse inside the washer cabinet.Which is wired into the drive of the washer..Has nothing to do with the filling action..I would go back check all connections from the wall outlet to the board.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

I will apply 120 direct to fill valves. If valves work properly, would you assume bad board .


I was assuming fill will continue if lid is up, is that correct??

I did check power to board at the terminal it actually enters. 120 volts.


I also wondered if there could be a "ground" problem as the 240 volts went thru the hot lead and the neutral lead??? Meaning there could be a "neutral" issue. Possibly a partially good connection?? Does this make any sense??

Hands down if you are not getting voltage from the board itself..Then either your power supply to the board is faulty..(You stated the fill light comes on you have power )....Or the board is faulty..This is why i stated to check all connections to the board from the power cord as far as grounding problems go..Like i said before..If you are not getting power from the board then we have to look at the board being faulty...You should show power to the water level switch also.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

I did have 4.5 vdc at level sw. Is that as it shoulod be.

but at the same time am I not correct in that the sw will open when full which would be same as disconnecting it

If you have a meter..Test the switch for countinuity first.
Jim..If you are getting voltage to the water level switch ..Then yes you are getting power from the board..From what your explaining..i would test the water level switch..You can do this with a meter ..Test for countinuity between the two terminals.
Bob L Your Appl Pal and other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

tested sw earlier--good continuity .But didn't know if the 4.5vdc reading was the correct voltage as. Thought it could be the "stray voltage" .

Do you have anything that gives the operating voltage at the water level sw??


I realize we are down to "grasping at straws"


I also know how difficult it must be to try to diagnose a machine when you can't put your hands on it??

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Found my answer on voltage to level sensor. I went back to the working washer like mine. Voltage to sensor was 15.6 v AC. Mine showed 4.5vdc but that was prob just a residual from somwewhere?? My circut board must not be producing any output

Thanks a bunch--I wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something obvious.

Great job..Let me know how you eventually make out..Thanks Bob
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

I've gone farther. Jumpered 120 volts to water valves. Both worked fine. Went ahead and filled tub approx 1/2 full. checked all connections

No changes but during flipping dials did discover pump would run. But mini wiring diagram showed pump has hot wire all the time and just gets a neutral thru circut board. don't know what that means.


There is another question you might help me with. The water level sw actually has 3 wires. The normal 2 and another small gage(prob 20 or 24gage) going back to the circut brd. Can send pics if possible.


Will add to your pay check for additional time

When you say pump will run..Are you talking about the drain pump..Or the washer will agitate..? If you have the tub filled with water..With power on..Washer set to fill..Carefully remove the hose from the pressure switch...Blow into the switch ..Let me know if anything happens
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

When you say set washer to"fill" ?? there is no fill setting--you set to med wash and the first event is the fill cycle. Is this what you need??

I'll do it but will be tomorrow. Will get back!!


I did blow into the hose earlier with ohm meter attached and contacts opened.


Will let you know.


Do you have any idea about the 3rd wire?? not shown on my diagram?? confused as only a single wire which means it could be connected in some way to the 15 vac from the control brd voltage sent thru the sw for water level??



Jim...You have three wires...Two are next to each other..The third to the left a bit lower ..? Test without power from the single to one each of the two paired terminals..Once should show a closed circuit..the other open...If the contacts showed open on the meter when you blew into the switch..You should be in good shape at that point as far as the switch is concerned.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

From the wiring dia and my testing I know the 2 14gage wires are the ones for the open/close situation as far as water level. wiring dia and my blowing into the tube confirms that. As a mater of fact thse 2 are in a single plastic connector. these are the 2 wires that all level sensors have.

My question is "WHAT" is the tiny 3rd wire for. It is close to the other 2 but obviousily for a different purpose???????????????

I'm assuming it is not there just because they had some extra wire. And an outside chance it could deal with our problem. the mini manual we found mentioned a devise that would shut down the water if it ran for more than 40 minutes?????

Is there any way I could send you this diagram and a picture of our switch??


diagram also showed an upper water level and a "lower" water level devise.



1-10-13 I've decided to buy another cir brd. Came to the conclusion that if the board is not sending a signal (15 v ac) to the level sw, it wouldn't make any difference what the tiny 3rd wire was for.

To fill, the machine sends a signal to level sw and if the contacts are closed the signal would return and the cir brd would send 120 v to the fill valves.


Im fairly confident if I ran a jumper across the levle sw leads (in a working machine) , water would run until it was running out the laundry room door.


How do I add some money for your additional time?? I really appreciate your effort.

Jim..You are correct..If by blowing into the switch opens and closes the circuit with your meter attached..Then the switch is working..The third wire is a common ..Like i said it is possible the board is bad..have seen it with GE but not to common..Let me know what you find out so far..Thanks Bob