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MRANSWER, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 6160
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I have a free standing Viking 15" Under Cabinet Ice Maker.

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I have a free standing Viking 15" Under Cabinet Ice Maker. It makes ice really well, but a couple days ago it decided to continue making ice and overfills the bin. The machine was serviced and cleaned by a Viking Service rep in Jan 2012. I opened the front panel, and the ice tray, grid, etc look to be in good shape. The deflector plate is in place. In the main ice bin, I see the tube on the left and a small steel tab on the right. I assume they are part of the ice level sensing, and they appear to be fine. Perhaps I need to somehow clean the outside of the left tube? Is there anything else I can check before I call the rep?
Call the rep as this issue has nothing to do with cleaning anything. The bin level sensor has failed or the control board has. You cannot tell that anything is good and functioning properly by simply looking at it- if it were that easy then we would not be in the business.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

I was hoping for enough information to avoid the service call. I expected I to learn I would need to replace a specific part or to learn how to apply a test to determine which part to replace. Since I still need to call service, I don't feel I have benefitted significantly this time from "Just Answer". I will say thanks as I will still use the service again in the future. Respectfully, DD

Your question did not at all imply you wanted to do the work needed aside from cleaning something, so that is why I answered as I did. Y I cannot read anyone's mind. I can easily give you whatever you need- all you need to do is ask. Finding out the problem will require the use of a multimeter and you would need to know how to use it as well.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

OK, let's try.

Take the lower panels off and see if your unit has the control board where individual wires are plugged into it and let me know. Yours has either this style or one where just a few wire harnesses plug in to it.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Removed the two lower panels. On the right side I see a small transformer and immediately behind is a box with many wires plugged onto the box individually. I was able to put my iphone underneath and take a picture, but was only able to identify a couple connections: Water pump. condenser fan, hot gas solenoid, drain solenoid. My photo approach will not be of much more help, however. This machine was likely made in 2004-2005.

On the left side of the control are terminals that are parallel to the edge. The bin sensor wires go on the 2nd and 3rd terminals from the front; the evap sensor wires are on the last 2 terminals right behind it and the wires look identical. You will easily see that the red and black wires come out of one cable for each sensor. Take the bin sensor wires off and with the sensor covered in ice you should read about 8 thousand ohms. If the reading is much different from that then the sensor is bad; if the reading is good then the control is bad.


This should give you what you need, so replace whatever is needed. Replacing the sensor requires the unit to be uninstalled so the wire can be run.


ATT has been having internet issues in my area, so pardon the delays as my service is intermittent.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Thanks. I found the proper wires and can see the label. I have not tried to pull the wire and check resistance, since I may not be able to see to get them back on w/o removing the ice maker from the cabinet. My wife now wants me to wait next week to proceed. Assuming it is the bin sensor, is that something I can do?

You can easily replace either part- there is nothing secret or hidden here as to what to do. I made a typo error on that ohm reading- it should be about 5000 ohms, not 8000 when ice-covered.
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Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Update FYI... I got 5.34K Ohms on the bin level sensor. I unplugged the machine for about 5 minutes when I made the measurement. The problem has now gone away. I am hoping that unplugging worked as a "computer reset".