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Bryan, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 12156
Experience:  15 yrs. experience as a certified appliance technician.
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Built-in wall oven,model #JK950C0A3CC serial #GA215408Q. lower

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Built-in wall oven,model #JK950C0A3CC serial #GA215408Q. lower oven does not heat up on any function setting. No trouble code appears. it was last used to "self clean"& it worked. I tried to use oven to"bake" the next day & it would not work. No matter what function I select the display shows perfect operation but nothing happens.
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you need to check the high limit thermostat. this is not resetable if it has no continuity it needs to be replaced. there are two so check them both. # XXXXX , 159, replace the bad one.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Do you have the G.E. part #'s? Are they the same part with 2 used for backup sake? I'd like to have the replacement on hand when I take the assembly apart so I can test & replace at the same time. If they test out O.K. I'd like to be able to return the parts. The test should be easy once it is apart.

yes there are two different ones, heres one. and heres the other. the company will take them back no questions asked. make sure you shut the power off to the oven and remove at least one wire when testing. these need to be isolated from the oven when testing. hope this helps, thanks Bryan
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Thanks. Is a schematic available that shows how to reach the thermostats through the front of the oven? if the thermostats test good what do you suggest.

here is a link to all of the diagrams. the thermostats are behind the control panel i believe on this model. if the thermostats check out the issue will be the door latch assembly (micro switch in it)
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Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Thanks for your help. I'll give it a try & hopefully I'll be able to resolve the problem.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

I recently had shoulder surgery & my right arm & hand don't work too well. It takes me a lot longer to get things done. There isn't much room to work on the lower oven. I was just able to test the 2 thermostats for the lower oven. They are both open as is the single thermostat for the upper oven. Are you sure that they are normally closed? They can't all be bad. I also wonder about the door micro switch since the door must be partially open to broil. I'm confused.

okay all three are open ? yes I'm sure at least two of them should be closed, one is for the cooling fan which closes when the oven gets hot to cool the control area. I'll look into which ones should be closed and get back to you.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Have you found the answer? We will need the oven for company in a few days. I will have to call for service which I had hoped to avoid.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

I don't know if you have given up on this problem. In any case, if you can't even say whether these thermostats are normally open or closed I have no answer to my inquiry. At this point you can't even say that they are the cause of the problem since you don't seem to know how these thermostats are supposed to work. It seems that I have no choice but to put everything back together & call for service. I expect a credit for the $30.00 charge on my credit card. If this is not issued I will contest the charge on my bill.

I'm sorry , we were having site issues , I cant pull up the wiring diagrams for this, if the single thermostat for the top oven is open its bad , you need to determine which one on the bottom thats open is the one for the oven, that one will also need to be replaced, I wish I could tell you more but without a diagram I can trace the wiring.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

I tested the thermostat for the top oven because it works. I thought that if it was closed that would tell me that the open the same position on the bottom was bad. Since all 3 (the 1 on the top oven & 2 on bottom) all test open I have no way of knowing how they are supossed to test. The sites you sent from Sears do not say "normally open" or "normally closed" in their descriptions. I'm stuck..

okay . theres one way you can test these without to much trouble. Doing one at a time. shut the power off to the oven and bypass each thermostat one at a time. (take the wires off and tape them together) one thermostat at a time. make sure they don't touch any metal.(tape good) then turn the power on and try the oven. when you see the oven come on then thats the bad one. don't leave it bypassed though replace it. try that and let me know. just remember to shut the oven power off between checking.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Before I do this I am going to go to a Sears parts store nearby to see if they have these in stock. If they do, I'll test them right there. If 1 or both test closed I'll replace. If they test open I'll know it's not either of these. Hopefully they'll have them. I'll let you know how I do.

they may be able to tell you which one is bad also. let me know, thanks, Bryan
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

I just came back from Sears. Let's use the diagram part #'s. The # you gave me for #159 is, according to them, wrong. They say it should be WB24K5049. I was suspicious because the # you gave is for a switch that is much like 158 & about the same price. The actual switch is much larger & more complicated & twice the price. In any case, they are out of stock on both 158 & 159. I put both on order. They can't tell me when they will ship. In the meantime I will start to put the oven back together & will try using a jumper for #159. I'll advise when I try it.

okay.well sometimes they change the part numbers so that may have been the case. let me know how you do with that.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

I made a jumper for #159 & used the old #158. The oven worked. I'll replace both with the new 1's I have on order. No use leaving an 11 year old part after all the work. I just hope the parts come soon. Thanks for your help.

thats great ! thanks and good job. have a great week ! Bryan

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Oven worked fine cooking. We used the self cleaning & it seemed to work normally but the door remains locked. I tried pressing the "Bake" & "Broil" buttons at the same time & the display showed "Door". I tried holding the "9" & "0" buttons down at the same time but it wouldn't unlock. I turned the breaker off for about 10 minutes & turned it back on but the door remains locked. I tried restarting the self clean & immediatly turning it off but it will not unlock. Any suggestions?


if this is not unlocking the lock motor could be the issue. your having a lot of trouble with this unit

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. Did you get the thermostats installed? are they installed in the right place ? you didn't mix them up correct ?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Both are installed correctly & the oven works normally. It just won't unlock after self cleaning. The self cleaning cycle seemed to work normally until I tried to open the door. It had all night to cool down. It remains locked even with the breaker off. In spite of everything I tried as I listed above it won't unlock.

okay the lock assembly has failed. no relationship to the other issue you had just bad luck. you will need to replace it.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

It sounds like it could be a nasty job. How bad is it?

well you would need to get the oven open and then remove the control panel. I would take a look at the lock assembly to make sure thats the right one. get a number off it if you can.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Being a retired senior in this economy is a lot of fun. I just finished fixing a leaking toilet.


I guess the next step in the oven problem is getting the door open. Until I do that I can't get to the door lock assembly. What's my next step?

thats the hard part unfortunately. the way we do it is make a hook at the end of a coat hanger and slide it in between the door and the body and catch the door lock latch. pull it over and wiggle the door until you get it unlatched. wish I had a better way. sorry.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

I'll give it a try. I'll let you know how I do. Thanks for your help.



Customer: replied 4 years ago.

This is really crazy. The door just unlocked on it's own!! I have no idea why. My wife will think I'm a genius.

Wow ! thats good right ? maybe the switch finally retracted. hopefully your all set.the micro switch on the door lock may still need don't want that to happen again. well good luck and best wishes, Bryan
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Is the switch temp sensitive or is there another thermostat that controls the door latch? I'd like to prevent this from happening again.

well yes and no. the temperature probe wont let the door unlock unless its cooled down so that could be the issue but usually there will be an error code. I believe the latch assembly is bad.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

I'm going to run the oven through a broil or bake cycle empty to see if the door remains unlocked. I don't want to take the chance that it will lock up with food in it. If it doesn't lock I'll at least know it can be used as long as we don't try self cleaning it. There must be a control that locks the door when the self cleaning cycle is started (oven cold) but doesn't unlock it until the oven cools down at the end of the cycle. I don't mind replacing the latch assembly but I'd like to also replace whatever it is that controls the latch locking & unlocking. That seems to be the real problem.

thats a good idea. I have no way of knowing if this will happen again. good luck, hope it works .thanks , Bryan
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

I went to test the oven & it didn't work. The same thermal switch is blown. Obviously, it is a problem in the "Selfclean" circuits. The original problem turned up after we cleaned the oven. Maybe I'll just replace the therm, #159 on the schematic, & not use the cleaning program again.

okay yes thats probably a good idea. the oven is overheating in self clean for some reason and tripping the thermostat. let me know how that works if you can. thanks and very best wishes, Bryan