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Justin, Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 829
Experience:  Owner of Shaffer's Appliance Service
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I have a GE dishwasher that only shows lights and beeps once

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I have a GE dishwasher that doesnt work. I have tried resetting it by shutting off at the breaker, and flipping the on/off switch that is connected to it. I have tried replacing the circuit board and yet it beeps once, two lights that come on (heated dry and wash), stay lite up for about twenty seconds and then turn off. I was told (by someone here) that it was the circuit boards, but that has failed as beeps once, the two lights come on, and then turn off after twenty seconds. There is a piece that is on one of the boards that when taken off the two lights dont come on but the clean light comes on and still, I cant do anything and the light wont shut off. This has been a cost of 160 bucks so far and I have no more funds to spend on this freaking GE. Even the maker doesnt know what to do...

Hello there. Sorry for your dilemma. Please provide your model number so I can see which dishwasher you own. Thank you.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
Thank you very much. Ok, the fact that it beeps upon powering suggests you have a stuck key more than a circuit board issue. Since LEDs do come on, this fact suggests the circuit board is providing power to the user interface membrane. These membrane switches are almost ALWAYS the issue with control problems on dishwashers, especially if you can't change anything or the keys are unresponsive. Moisture tends to get into the ribbon and causes a short. I replace them often for exactly what you're experiencing. The part number for the user interface panel is WD34X11278
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Ok, I just replaced a board that was suggested to be the problem and with no change to the performance of my washer, I am skeptical on going with this suggested fix. The board that I just replaced is part number WD21X10247. Its two boards and I am not sure I can get a refund on their purchase. Therefor I ask without insult, are you sure this is the problem?

Yes, I saw you replaced the main board and tactile board. Disregard my advice right now. I need to research something. Did your user panel have a ribbon connector plugging into the tactile board?

You replaced both of these boards?

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

yes both of them, twice, as the first one sent did not provide me with any electrical notification at all. Meaning, the lights nor the beeps were not working...

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

I think what you are referring to were the wires going from one of the new boards to the other new board, correct?

If you try to start a cycle, say by pressing any wash sequence, do the corresponding lights come on? I know you may have addressed this already, but I'm trying to get as much info as I can. So, if your door is closed, and you press normal, what happens?

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Once I give the washer power, either from the circuit breaker being turned on or I flip the switch, it beeps once, the two lights come on, stay on for twenty seconds, and then shut off. During the time the lights are on and off, nothing can be done. No sounds, no lights, nothing. But there is a mod on one of the boards that if I take it off, the two lights turn off and the wash light is on and will not or can not be turned off. But it does make sound when the other buttons are pushed. Does this help?lol

Attachment: 2012-09-03_221803_dw-90312.pdf

On page two of this PDF, try to enter the diagnostics for me.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Please hold on as I try these for you...

Ok, not a problem. Just try to run through those. If your dishwasher is unresponsive to entering this, I'll need you to check your door switch for me.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

The unit is unresponsive to the testing. To check the door switch, I need to know what or where the door switch is located...

Part 803 on this diagram is the door switches. You'll want to kill the breaker, check them for continuity. Also, you'll want to ensure you have 120 volts from black to neutral.
Ensure you activate the switches to ensure they both read 0 ohms across the terminals.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

I have no ohms reader... Any alternatives for me?

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Also, page one of that PDF you sent me shows me the door switches doesnt it?

Yes, it does. Black and white wires. Line switch is black and neutral is white. I'm not telling to do this, but you could pull the wires off each switch, place (tape) the terminals together. Black to black and white to white. This would ensure both are closed. Again, for safety reasons, I'm not telling you to do this, this is at your own risk. Just trying to ensure you have a good switch. If you don't, programming most likely can't be entered, and dishwasher function won't work. Since you've replaced both boards, it's really the only thing I can think of at this point. You do want to have a meter though to ensure you have correct line voltage too... that's essential.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Well, without power putting the two lines together wouldnt do anything. Now once I powered on the unit, it will short out one of the boards I just replaced or will blow the circuit or shock the living shi t out of me. Witch will it be?

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

The two switches also have little buttons on them (both are popped out), that you can push in and they pop right back out. Does this tell me anything?

It tells you the switches are actuating, it doesn't tell you whether they're internally closing though.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Without power putting the two lines together wouldnt do anything. Now once I powered on the unit, it will short out one of the boards I just replaced or will blow the circuit or shock the living shi t out of me. Witch will it be?Cool

If you remove power at the breaker, pull wires off the door switches. Tape black to black and tape white to white, that will electrically simulate a closed door. It's easier with a meter. I'd still prefer some voltage readings, but you don't have a meter, so we are stuck there.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Okay, its working and wasnt the two boards after all. It was the door switches not getting hit when the door closed. I put my finger in between the switches and it started filling the tub. So, now trying to find out what is missing from the door that hits the two switches... That second PDF link you sent shows this doesnt it?

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Parts numbered 1002 and 837 are missing and are what hit the two switches when the door is shut...

ahhh... sounds like we found our issue then?
That part number I gave you will give you a complete assembly including those parts. If they're missing, something may have broken inside the escutcheon. That was the WD34X11278 and it might be the best option for you. Glad you found it !!!!
Justin and other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

I will most likely get it and send back the two boards that I purchased. I do wish you the best at what you do, as the other guy did fail and never would reply. Thanks for the friendly service and I will be back if I am ever in need of help again.