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Appl-Tech, Service Technician
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Experience:  Over twenty seven years in the appliance service business
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Saw your reply to This is the same problem I'm having on the same zdp48 model.

You said to access the door lock from the back -- of the oven? So I have to pull it away from the wall and then unscrew some cover panels to find the door lock mechanism? I'm not sure I understand.

Also, to fix this permanently, will I need a new microswitch or solenoid?

Hello, Thank you for using this service, I will be helping you with your problem today

do you have your full model number so i can look up the diagrams ?
Customer: replied 5 years ago.

Model zdp48n6dhss, serial # XXXXX

service manual link:

okay the door latch in this is not in the back of the oven its in the front right under the top. is this locked and you cant open the door ?
Customer: replied 5 years ago.

Yes, it's locked and I can't open the door.


I have removed the 3 screws that hold in the trim piece located below the drip tray drawer. I can see the lock mechanism pictured on page 19, but don't have enough access to take voltage measurements from all of the contact points. (I have a multimeter.)


I'm comfortable doing this myself . . .just need a few pointers and some step-by-step instructions. Thanks!

is this the lock assembly ?
Customer: replied 5 years ago.

I recognize the first image from page 19. I have access to the area where screws 352, 353, 358, and 360 are located.


I do not recognize the 2nd image. What's the black rod sticking out on the bottom?

the black rod is the part that sticks out and the oven door hits it . Its a rod that runs a switch on the lock assembly. it seems on this model you will need to remove the burners and everything to get to the lock assembly. you would have to remove the brass nuts on the burners before being able to get the rest up. this is a dual oven ? the diagrams are tough to read on this one.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.

Yes, it is a dual oven split 1/3 and 2/3rds.


EDIT -- I used a thin 1/4" x 1" piece of oak trim moulding to push the lock mechanism from the side. Pushing from the right, I was actually able to open the oven. However, the lock mechanism is still engaged. How do I get it to retract? Is it the K4 relay that needs power? Now that I can remove the lock assembly housing to get to the wires, should I test the K3 relay for power?


It was my 2 year old daughter that decided to push the clean button. Since fixing the oven is easier than fixing my daughter, what do I need to do to fix the oven so that it doesn't get locked during a future clean cycle?




p.s. I do not have the black rod piece as part of my lock mechanism. I'll post a picture in a few minutes.

I'm sorry I'm not sure on yours if you don't have the rod. I'll opt out as not to hold you up. thanks Bryan
Customer: replied 5 years ago.



I’m a moderator for this topic. It seems the professional has left this conversation. This happens occasionally, and it's usually because the professional thinks that someone else might be a better match for your question. I've been working hard to find a new professional to assist you right away, but sometimes finding the right professional can take a little longer than expected.

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Thank you!
Customer: replied 5 years ago.

Yes, I'm OK waiting . . .no rush, just want to fix it without costing a fortune or breaking it further. Please do continue to search for another expert.



Hello, thanks for letting us answer your questions. We appreciate your business!
I am a different technician. I see that the other tech had opted out of your question, so I will attempt to help you out.
Looking at your picture, you oven appears to be different that the parts illustrations.
I would like you to carefully look all around the edge of the oven opening frame for a peg or rod sticking out of the frame. Possibly down by the door hinge if you don't see anything obvious.There has to be a switch that tells the oven that the door is closed.

Does the oven light turn on when the door is opened or only by the switch on the console?

Could you upload a picture of the face of the oven with the door open?
Customer: replied 5 years ago.


No peg or rod...the light turns on and off with a switch and never automatically (by itself) when the door opens.


Kind of odd there is no switch to tell the control that the oven door is closed.
Lets try this:
Open the oven door and push on the latch hook to the left and keep pressure on it. Set the oven to clean and tell me if you hear anything or if it feels like the latch motor is running.
Also tell me if the control tells you that the door is locked and if it starts the clean cycle.
If it does start the clean cycle, then cancel the clean cycle.
It may take an extra hand to do this.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.

Opened oven, pushed clean and set t-stat past broil to clean. Nothing happened. Then I pushed the lock/latch to the left.


The fan started and the broil element started heating. When I released the latch, the fan stopped and the broil element began to cool. Then the latch began to swing from left to right and back.


I turned the oven to off and the t-stat to zero. The latch continued to automatically swing from left to right and back.


I closed the oven door. The latch stopped swinging and locked the door closed.


Then I started another clean cycle and was able to get the door open again with my wooden stick. With the door open, the latch began swinging back and forth. I turned the oven and t-stat off and, with the latch still swinging back and forth, turned the breaker off in the basement. The latch is now in the mostly closed position, preventing the oven door from closing fully.


I think we are on the right track here. It seems that the latch acts as a sense switch for the lock. Try doing the same thing , place the oven into clean and see if you can get the clean cycle to start. The latch should move to the right and lock, keep pressure on the latch to simulate the door being closed. The clean indicator on the display should come on, and the oven should begin to heat. If the oven goes into clean and starts heating, cancel out the clean cycle, keeping pressure on the latch and see if it will return to the correct position. Maybe use that little piece of wood you were using to act like the door behind the hook on the latch.
If the latch just continues to go back again, I would think you have a problem with the microswitch on the oven lock mechanism. It looks like you can pull the lock by removing the two screws on each side of the lock face plate, but I can't be sure of that. You will just have to try it.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.

Yes, I can pull the lock assembly out by using a T10 torx driver.


When I installed it about 6-9 months ago, it was very difficult to get all of the wires attached to the leads -- just not enough space to work in for my hands and the short length of the wires. (It's possible that the repair procedure calls for opening the oven from the top -- I'm not sure -- but that would require substantial time and effort.)


I tried holding the latch open (and closed). It starts making a grinding noise that isn't heard when it latches against the metal of the oven door. Is it possible that it's sensing continuity when it closes against the metal of the oven door (vs. my hand)?


I should be able to test for continuity on the wires/relays when the oven is going through it's motions. I just don't know what to look for!

No, the latch just moves against the microswitch inside the lock.
It looks at though the lock comes as one part. But the switches are on on the right top, looks like there are two of them.
Part number is XXXXX
Diagram for ZDP48N6DH5SS
I have put in a request for a service manual for this, but sometimes it take a day or two if I can get one. GE is pretty secretive about their manuals. If you want me to continue with you , I will come back to this question if I get additional information, even if you rate my help tonight. But at this time, I think you have a problem with the lock mech. Did you daughter have the door open when she put into self clean? Also, if you replaced this, maybe you have a loose wire in there.

Customer: replied 5 years ago.

There is a link to the service manual at the top of this thread. I agree that the problem is with the lock mechanism. It's either not wired right or there is a bad solenoid or microswitch or something.


The mechanism was new 6-9 months ago when I put it in. I double checked my work and thought I wired it correctly, but it could be wrong?! It shouldn't be a bad part -- it's practically brand new and wasn't ever used prior to this event.


The door was closed when she put it into clean mode. She just walked by and started pushing buttons...

That link does not work. Unless you were able to download it.
I think there is a problem with one of the switches on the lock, but you will have to pull it and check them. Power it down and get a small screwdriver or pick and press the little plungers(blue on picture) on the switches and listen for them to click.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.

I was able to download it. Try this link again.


I will try opening the lock mechanism up in the morning. Thanks!

Looking at the wiring diagram on page 19, I still think it is one of the switches is stuck. When you go thru the unlocking part of the operation the 'open' switch should cut power to the motor thru k4 relay connections 9 & 6 when the switch opens at the end of the unlocking sequence. I think that switch is stuck closed
Customer: replied 5 years ago.

I opened up the lock mechanism assembly. Here is a picture.


zdp48n6dhss Lock Assembly


The switches both looked like there were in proper physical position and condition. I suppose I would need to test them for continuity in order to know for sure what the situation is.


EDIT: OK, I hacked a semi-permament fix.


With the door open and the latch swinging open to closed, I timed the latch as it swung back and forth and noticed that it ran on a 30 second interval, fully open at zero and fully closed at 30 seconds.


I turned the breaker off when it was on its second cycle of fully open (at 60 seconds). I then came upstairs and verified the latch was fully open (it was). Then, I turned the breaker back on.


I went upstairs and turned on the oven t-stat and set the oven to bake, and then convection and broil modes. The "door locked" light stayed off and the latch was not swinging back and forth. SUCCESS!


This doesn't fix the problem that the oven doesn't unlock after being put into clean cycle, but it does give me access to use the oven again. If you're willing to help me troubleshoot a permanent fix, I'm up for it. It would seem to be a matter of testing for voltage at the right time and in the right places . . .

Test the switch function by using your ohm meter and read from terminal #1 to 2 & #1 to 3 one is normally open , the other closed ,
Your meter should move when you move the lever or press the little tab.
But like I said before, it looks as if you have a problem with the lock mech.
It also looks like the switches on riveted into the mounting plate,which would make them too hard to replace.
I think I am at the end of the line here on helping you much further. It looks as if we have figured out where the problem is. Sure would like to know how just pressing some buttons by your daughter would cause such a problem. Maybe we should set her up a beta tester for new appliances Wink
If you feel I have helped you out please don't forget to rate my help to you. JA is keeping a scorecard on our answers and help.

PS Nice pics

Appl-Tech, Service Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 564
Experience: Over twenty seven years in the appliance service business
Appl-Tech and other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
Just for clarification, my records show you requested a refund from JA. Is this correct or is it just a glitch on the system?
If not, was there anything else I can help you out with on this question?