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code 13 flashing

Customer Question
code 13 flashing
Submitted: 5 years ago.Category: Appliance
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Answered in 6 minutes by:
2/1/2012
Appliance Technician: Jon, Appliance Technician replied 5 years ago
Jon
Jon, Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 3,646
Experience: Appliance Service Technician with 10+ years experience.
Verified

Jon Grella :

hello

Jon Grella :

my name is XXXXX XXXXX i can help you today

Jon Grella :

what machine is this? ref? washer?

Jon Grella :

i am assuming this is for a ref. in an rv, correct?

Customer:

side by side ref in motorhome

Jon Grella :

got it.

Jon Grella :

did you mean nda1402 for the model number?

Jon Grella :

i dont see a nea1402

Jon Grella :

this is a wide by side ref? correct? it has a wider bottom in freezer and wider ref on top, correct?

Customer:

will check model #

Jon Grella :

ok. just let me know, i will be here

Jon Grella :

when did you purchase this machine? there is a product recall on some model side by side machines manufactured inbetween dates of


Dometic Voluntarily Expands Refrigerator Recall



Dometic recently expanded its recall on a population of two-door refrigerators. The original recall included some two-door refrigerators manufactured between April 1997 and May 2003. The new recall focuses on models manufactured between June 2003 and September 2006.


Jon Grella :

was your machine purchased during this time frame?

Jon Grella :

here is a website that you can enter the model and serial numbers to find out if your machine is under recall.

Jon Grella :

http://67.238.126.140/recall.php

Jon Grella :

i just checked and it doesnt seem like it is under recall

Jon Grella :

what is is doing?

Customer:

it is nea 1402 confirmed. ices up & does not drain out on freezer side.

Jon Grella :

ok. i will check again.

Jon Grella :

do you see ice or frost on the rear wall of the frzr section?

Jon Grella :

if yes, then you are experiencing a defrost failure.

Jon Grella :

unplug the machine for at least 24 hours and then replug back in.

Jon Grella :

this will defrost and fix the machine for now. if the same problem happens agin then you are having a problem with your defrost system

Jon Grella :

if you have a multimeter we can check a few things now

Jon Grella :

you will have to access the evaproator in the rear of the frezzer portion of the ref

Jon Grella :

the error 13 is for a drain heater error. it is not heating causing the defrost failure and build up of ice

Jon Grella :

no need to check the system

Jon Grella :

just try the manual defrost for 24 hours then see if that fixes the problem. most times it will. sometimes the computer that controls the heater just skips a defrost cycle here and there and will get stuck in an off position and needs to be manually reset by unplugging.

Jon Grella :

if the manual reset doesnt work, then replace the heater.

Jon Grella :

i can get part info and where to order parts if need be

Customer:

this has been going on for some time. fridge has been turned off several times. ice builds up where in the defrost cycle ice is supposed to melt & water drain out of tube to exterior of fridge .where is this heater located?

Jon Grella :

heater is located just near the drain pan that is freezing over. it is located behind the freezer wall on the inside. it is called the evaporator cover. just underneath the evaporator is the drain pan and heater.

Jon Grella : Tech- Inside a Dometic NDA1402
April 17, 2008 by XXXXX XXXXX · 30 Comments


 


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RV.Net Blog Admin


[IMAGE][SRC][/SRC][ALT][/ALT][WIDTH]100[/WIDTH][HEIGHT]100[/HEIGHT][STYLE][/STYLE][/IMAGE] Last week, I attended a course on the “New Generation” of Dometic refrigerators. The 3 models we looked at are the RM3762/3962, fairly conventional top/bottom 2 door models with new control circuitry, including constant LED readouts of the temperature in the fresh food cabinet, the RM1350, a large 4 door model, with cold water through the door, the same temperature readouts as the RM3762, a “tag line” (ignition switch) hookup which both locks out LP operation for refueling purposes, and activates an automatic door lock, and the most interesting model (at least to me

:)
Full Size Image
)- the NDA1402- a side by side model with the first true auto defrost in an RV refrigerator.


I thought it might be interesting to look “under the hood” to see how this model works….


[IMAGE][SRC][/SRC][ALT][/ALT][WIDTH]100[/WIDTH][HEIGHT]100[/HEIGHT][STYLE][/STYLE][/IMAGE] The NDA1402 is a side by side model, with a small twist in layout- as you can see, the freezer portion is somewhat larger than normal, which- added to the vacuum insulation (meaning thin walls with good insulation) gives a fairly large food storage volume.


But… the most interesting part- both from a use and service point of view- is the automatic defrost.


The first thing you have to do when you first start up this model is to set the clock… yes, this refrigerator has a clock. “Why ?” you may ask- pretty simple. The clock lets the refrigerator go in to defrost mode at 1 AM every day, when the doors are likely to be closed, and the refrigerator will have plenty of time to recover from the added heat of defrosting.


 


“Added heat?”…. Yes, this model has 4- 12 volt heaters in it to do the actual defrosting, and to keep the drain tubes unplugged.[IMAGE][SRC][/SRC][ALT][/ALT][WIDTH]100[/WIDTH][HEIGHT]100[/HEIGHT][STYLE][/STYLE][/IMAGE]


Here’s a picture of the fresh food heater, which is installed behind the cooling fins in the compartment. Notice there is also a fan to circulate air. There are defrost heaters and fans in both the freezer and fresh food compartments.


To control all of this, the unit uses 4 thermisters (temperature sensors)- 2 in the freezer, 2 in the fresh food compartment. 1 thermister in each is attached to the cooling coils, the other reads the air temperature.


In operation the defrost cycle starts at 1 A.M. First, the cooling unit is turned on for 1 hour to pull the temperature down (it will stop before freezing the fresh food, though).


Next, the unit is shut off for 10 minutes, to allow the cooling unit to “relax”, or equalize the pressures in the system.


The freezer heating element is energized next, along with the freezer drain tube heater. The defrost heater stays on until the freezer plate temperature reaches 41° (or 75 minutes, whichever is first). The fan in the freezer is shut off during this procedure (we just want to defrost the plate, not heat up the freezer), but the freezer fan is run for short periods to throw any water off of the blower.


After the freezer defrost cycle has completed, the cooling unit is started again, and the fresh food defrost actually takes place while the unit is cooling. Because of the slow recovery of absorbtion type refrigerators, the timing lets the cooling unit get a head start on recovery. The fresh food defrost cycle is until the fins reach 41°, or 20 minutes. The fan is also shut off for this cycle, and the drain tube heaters stay running for 30 minutes after the cycle is complete.


The defrost cycle can be started manually, and if it is started manually, and if the freezer door is held open, it goes in to the “drying” mode- which is used for storage. In the drying mode, both heaters are run for 3 hours. At the end of this cycle, the unit shuts completely off. This helps eliminate mold and rust from forming.


A couple more features this model has that I thought I would mention- it has temperature readouts for both the freezer and fresh food compartment, and it has ice and water through the door. The ice maker and ice and water dispenser are standard household models, and run on 120 volts, so while it will make ice running on LP gas, it will not eject or dispense ice unless 120 volt power is available- though the units now use 2 separate 120 volt cords, so the ice maker function can easily be run off an inverter.


It was interesting to me to see where the “state of the art” in RV refrigeration is headed, and it will be interesting to see if some of this technology gets in to the standard 2 door “top freezer” models

Jon Grella :

the above info was out of an article from the dometic website about the drain pan heaters.

Jon Grella :

you can go directly to the link at http://blog.rv.net/2008/04/tech-inside-a-dometic-nda1402/

Jon Grella :

you can research more info there if you like. or i can show you what to order and how to fix it

Jon Grella : You can order the replacement parts directly through dometic by calling them at 1-800(NNN) NNN-NNNN This is what I recommend doing since they will give you factory original parts that have a full warranty. Otherwise if you order elsewhere they may not give you a full warranty or the factory original parts
Jon Grella : You can also check this website to order parts to.
Jon Grella : http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-refrigerators/dometic-refrigerator-parts.htm
Jon Grella : You can access the pan and heater by removing the shelves and food from the entire freezer section. Then remove the screws on the rear panel that covers the parts. After the rear panel is removed then you will see the evaporator on the left then the drain heater and pan on the right and lower portion.
Jon Grella : Turn the power off to the machine and defrost with a hair dryer if you can't see the parts I am referring to because of all the ice and frost that is building up. You will not be able to check any parts until the wires to the thermostat and heater are visible and able to be checked.
Jon Grella : I usually take a blow dryer to the evaporator for about a half hour. That will defrost the machine enough to access the parts you need to access
Jon Grella : Disconnect the two wires to the heater and test with meter on continuity. If you have continuity the heater is good. If you don't have continuity the heater is bad. And will need to be replaced.
Jon Grella : Of course the machine is advanced enough to realize all of this already. That is why it is giving you the 13 error code and message.
Jon Grella : Just order the heater and then defrost the machine for at least 24 hours before working on the machine to make the process easier for when you are about to do the repair.
Jon Grella : You can email me back here if you need further assistance when the part arrives to you and are ready to install it.
Jon Grella : If you feel that I have answered your question please remember to hit the green accept button below so that I can get paid for my time helping you.
Jon Grella : And then I will be to help you directly and for no other charge. And the you can ask me any question you like until this machine is fixed.
Jon
Jon, Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 3,646
Experience: Appliance Service Technician with 10+ years experience.
Verified
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Appliance Technician: Jon, Appliance Technician replied 5 years ago
Thank you for accepting my answer today.

Please let me know if you need any further help with this machine.

Thank you
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Satisfied Customers: 3,646
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