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Dave in SC
Dave in SC, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 101
Experience:  Several areas of expertise and experience, from installation to the most complex repairs. NASTeC PSA and EPA certified.
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i have a "tough dog" maytag stack se1006-06 1988 unit with

Customer Question

i have a "tough dog" maytag stack se1000-06 1988 unit with an abnormal 9e fault code.the fault code shows up only when operating the washer unit.the washer will successfully complete its cycle while the 9e remains in the dryer display.after unplugging the power cord or the supply to the control board and clearing the code,the dryer will now operate on its own and fully complete its cycle.if you were to start the washer,the 9e would show up.i have replaced the door switch and the control board,checked the wiring related to the door circuit.the fact that the dryer works fine on its own,dispels any faults in the dryer circuitry.the operation of the washer whether it is filling or in the spin cycle will trigger the 9e shutdown.i have even replaced the washer lid and latch switches even though faults in those circuits would normally show a different fault code. my question is,do you have a definitive solution to this situation ? if so i am more than willing to pay the $30.00 fee.this would be only if, in actuality,it solves the problem.
Submitted: 5 years ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  Chas replied 5 years ago.

Hi, my name is Chas, I am hoping that I will be able to help you with your problem today..

THis is an electronic control error, the part number for the repair part is 33001048 , You can order the parts you need from the following places,,,, or, all of these places offer easy returns and reasonable prices for their items.

Your acceptance of my answer if helpful to you, requires that you press the GREEN ACCEPT button, this will allow me to get credit for helping you today, The deposit you paid in the beginning is just that and does not transfer to any experts until you press it...

I cannot know everything since I am not there with you to see all the conditions that the appliance we are talking about,

Pressing the ACCEPT button will not stop me from continue to helping you in the future if needed on the problem we are working on..

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Customer: replied 5 years ago.
i had stated that i replaced the control board,in fact i suspected a defective board and ordered a second one with the same result so this is not the answer
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
Relist: Inaccurate answer.
as i previously stated in my original statement,i have replaced the control board,in fact twice so this obviously not the problem
Expert:  Dave in SC replied 5 years ago.
the 9E code is for a dryer door circuit malfunction... when you say you replaced the door switch, I assuming you were referring to the dryer door?
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
yes, the dryer door switch
Expert:  Dave in SC replied 5 years ago.
ok, just making sure. Ok, there is only one common link between your dryer door switch and the washer. On one side of the switch, there are 2 gray wires. One of these leads back to the electronic control, the other runs to the washer. It is very possible you have a weakened wire from 23 years of use, especially if the washer and dryer were usually run at the same time. I would check for excessive resistance between the door switch side of the gray wire (unplug gray wire from the control board first) to the other end of the wire. I need to look at the wiring diagram briefly, but that looks like a pretty likely culprit.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
again,i have previously stated i have checked the wiring in the door circuit.isn't anyone reading my original statement? besides the dryer works fine until you attempt to start another wash load,regardless of whether the dryer is running or not.starting the washer initiates the 9e fault code.
Expert:  Dave in SC replied 5 years ago.
That's what I'm saying. And yes, I read the first post SEVERAL times so I wouldn't post a useless comment. That gray wire is the neutral from the switch to the control board which is why the control THINKS you have a door switch problem. Please check the wire before you disregard my advice. I can help you fix this if you will be patient.
Expert:  Dave in SC replied 5 years ago.
Basically, that gray wire goes from the main control board to one side of the dryer door switch, to the washer where it is connected with the motor run relay and the lid lock solenoid. If the washer works fine on its own and the dryer works fine on its own, you can probably rule out faulty wiring in each appliance's circuitry. HOWEVER, that gray wire acts as the neutral for washer AND the dryer door/lid switches, so when you try to run them both at the same time, amperage is being increased due to the wire in question and this (if you know electrical theory) will make the computer think that one of the two switches is opening up. The lid lock solenoid on the washer has a higher resistance value than the dryer door switch, so the solenoid will be the one that gets the most "attention" so to speak. Because it's hogging the power consumption, the door switch on the dryer is the one that the control board sees as faulty. This is a pretty solid technical explanation of your problem. Let me know what you find.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
i have rechecked the continuity of that wire to the control board and to the lid lock and motor relays and am getting 0 ohms in both directions
Expert:  Dave in SC replied 5 years ago.
What is your meter resistance set to? Rx1? You should be reading at least 0.2 or 0.3 ohms
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
i am using a fluke digital meter which does not have range settings. on the audible tone setting it reads 0 ohms.on the ohms setting it reads .2 ohms. please note it was about 9:00am when first posted this.i have to be up at 5:00am.,so we may have to continue this sometime tomorrow
Expert:  Dave in SC replied 5 years ago.
That's a good meter, and a good reading. I will be glad to continue tomorrow, as I have to get up at 5 every day as well. I have a 12 hour route tomorrow (I hate Fridays), but I should be able to check in throughout the day. I'll discuss with our senior tech in case he's seen this before. In the meantime, do you have a copy of the schematic? I have one if you need it.
Expert:  Dave in SC replied 5 years ago.
Looking back over your posts, did you check from the control board/door switch, door switch/harness connector (dryer to washer connection), harness connector/lid lock solenoid, motor relays, and then (with the connector reconnected) from the door switch to the lid lock solenoid and motor relays? You could have a bad connection at the connector. Just thought I'd add that.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
i'll recheck those there any special reference no. to resume this communication?
Expert:  Dave in SC replied 5 years ago.
you should be able to come back to this question under "my questions". If all else fails, you can repost on my profile page
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
ok. signing off.thanks for your efforts. jerry
Expert:  Dave in SC replied 5 years ago.
no problem. i'll catch up with you tomorrow.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
dave: sorry for not getting back to you until now.i have a family emergency to take care of and have not been able to recheck those last suggestions you recommended.i'll try to do that this weekend and get back to you on monday. jerry
Expert:  Dave in SC replied 5 years ago.
No rush, take care of what you need to get done. I'm not going anywhere. Hope everything is ok on your end.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
i returned to resume your recommended checks,but the unit is now not acting up(which is not unusual with an intermittent problem)so any tests i would perform would be useless.the only test i was able to make use of is running the washer and prodding all connections and cables,which created no activation of the 9e fault,until the problem reoccurs i'll have to temporarily suspend communications

Expert:  Dave in SC replied 5 years ago.
Ok, just let me know what happens.