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Jason, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 410
Experience:  Home appliance technician with 10 years experience working on numerous makes and models.
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performa not heating or drying

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performa not heating or drying
Hi my name isXXXXX will be assisting you with this problem.Please allow me some time to do research and type a response to each of your posts.

Does the drum turn?
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
Ok the problem is likely with the igniter or the gas valve coils, need you to take the front panel off the machine by sliding a putty knife between the front and top panel about 3 inches from each end, Push the clips that are holding the top on. The top should be able to be lifted up. Once the top is up look inside and you will see the 2 screws holding the front panel on. Take these screws out and lift the front panel off. Move the front panel out the way but without disconnecting the door switch. Then look inside you will see the burn chamber.

Start the machine then look in the burn chamber, need to know which of the following conditions you see.

Igniter glows, flame starts then shuts off quickly

Igniter glows - No flame

Igniter does not glow - no flame.

Let me know.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
I see nothing that glows, and there is no flame. Don't smell any propane either...
Ok the problem will be either the igniter or the high limit thermostats.

Pull the wire harness off the igniter, then test it with a ohm meter, if it reads open it's bad. If the igniter is good (reads continuity) then the high limit is bad, this is the part mounted on the side of the burn tube, pull the 2 wires off, test with a ohms meter, if open then replace.

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Customer: replied 5 years ago.
Had to go borrow an ohmmeter...
2 contact side = continuity,
3 contact side = continuity,

and limit = continuity

No Opens...
You disconnected the wires correct?
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
Yes, pulled the plugs and removed one of the wires on the limit
ok there should be another fuse the other side of the burn tube pull the wires off then test it with the ohm meter.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
I pulled one wire off, and it shows continuity too.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
So....have we given up? Stumped the tech?
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
Relist: Other.
We were working on this yesterday, and then without any heads-up, communication on your end stopped. Asking again this morning has yielded no if someone could look at the answer/reply stream and pick it up that would be helpful.
Do you have a volt meter to check for 120 volts to the igniter?
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
Yes. Where do I check?
There should be a plug coming off of the two wires on the igniter. Disconnect the plug and insert the probes on the side of the plug going to the igniter. Once you have that done. Start a cycle, you should get 120 volts.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
Reading 21V ac off of the two pin connector. Both connectors are off the igniter, by the way.. thats twenty one volts
OK, disconnect power. One the side of the burner tube, you will see a black box that tis about 4 inches long and it has two wires coming off of it. Disconnect those wires and check for continuity across that part. It is called the flame sensor.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
Would that be a "therm-o-disk?" It measures continuity. BUT, yesterday I thought that was the "fuse" the other tech was talking about...

So maybe we should back up to 'fuse' and find that for a measurement. Where is that? I only see two parts mounted to the tube, what I thought was the high-tem sensor and the therm-o-disk...

If there was a fuse issue, you would get zero volts. Being that you are getting 21, this definitely sounds like an issue in that flame sensor. If you are willing there is another test you can try, it is definitely for some one that has a good amount of mechanical and electrical skill.


To test the flame sensor remove power from the unit. Take off the two wires to the sensor and put them together and isolate them from touching anything. The next step is reapplying voltage to the unit. At this point, the wires from the flame sensor will have 120VOLTS. Next, turn on a cycle, you should see the igniter glow orange. Let it glow orange for about 20 seconds then pull the wires apart. The gas valve should open and you should get a flame.


If you are not comfortable doing this test, let me know.

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
OK. That is what I am referring to as therm-o-disk. what is the round part with two contacts?

Do you want everything re-connected?

That is a thermostat.


Yes to do the test above, everything needs to be connected except for the wires on the flame sensor. Again, be careful, once power is applied to the dryer, those wires will be live.

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
Jason, I am not seeing a glow, and following the sequence anyway does not get a flame. I repeated this twice with the same results.

OK, then the issue is going to be the motor.


There is a switch on the motor called the centrifugal switch. This switch supplies power to the igniter. The switches purpose is that if the motor is not running it will not turn on the igniter. If this switch goes bad, it is like the motor is not running and you get no power to the unit.


The motor is about $130 dollars. It might be worth getting a new unit for the cost of a dryer nowadays.

Jason, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 410
Experience: Home appliance technician with 10 years experience working on numerous makes and models.
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